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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 396 and 397

    Chef Ronnie Killen is ready to reclaim his crown as Houston's meat king

    CultureMap Staff
    Aug 9, 2024 | 7:00 pm
    Killen's TMX Ronnie Killen head shot

    Ronnie Killen is this week's guest.

    Photo by Kimberly Park

    On this week’s episode of What’s Eric Eating, chef Ronnie Killen joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss his restaurant group. Killen has been a guest twice before — on the show’s second episode in 2017 and again in 2020 — so there’s quite a bit to catch up on.



    Speaking with his usual candor, Killen details some of the health issues he’s been dealing with over the last three years. After undergoing multiple surgeries, he’s finally on the road to a sustained recovery.

    Known for making Pearland a dining destination with his upscale steakhouse and being among the first Houston-area restaurants to serve craft barbecue, Killen acknowledges he may have fallen off the media radar a but, but he’s ready to get back in the spotlight.

    “People say the barbecue place isn’t what it used to be. We don’t have the lines anyone. I didn’t want the lines. I wanted it to be approachable, not where people drive by it and see a two hour line. Our local people who come on a more frequent basis can’t wait two hours in line,” he says.

    “When we first opened, we were a $3 million restaurant. Now we’re a $7 million restaurant. Would I throw away $4 million just to have a big line? No, I wouldn’t,” he adds.

    Listen to the full episode to hear the chef opine on a number of other topics, including potential changes to Killen’s, his comfort food restaurant near the Heights and his recent departure from NRG Stadium. Sandler also shares memories of his first meal at the original Killen’s Steakhouse in 2008.



    On this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include the sudden closure of Japanese restaurant Molihua after only three months; Jonathan’s the Rub’s plans to add a fourth location in Cypress; and Winfield’s Chocolate Bar opening a new location just west of the Galleria.

    For the restaurant of the week segment, they share first impressions of The Marigold Club, the French-influenced, English-inspired new restaurants from the owners of March and Rosie Cannonball. They discuss the restaurant’s eye-catching design and offer some opinions about their favorite dishes from chef Austin Waiter’s menu.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 10 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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