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    Shepherd's newest steakhouse

    Chris Shepherd's new casual steakhouse now serving roasted meats downtown

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 27, 2021 | 9:00 am

    The wait for the newest restaurant from Chris Shepherd's Underbelly Hospitality has come to an end. Georgia James Tavern officially opens tonight (Tuesday, July 27) in downtown's luxurious Market Square Tower high-rise.

    First announced in January, Georgia James Tavern offers a more casual, less expensive alternative to the full-scale experience at Georgia James, but it still uses the same approach to sourcing, technique, and service that earned the James Beard Award winner's Montrose steakhouse recognition from Texas Monthly as 2019's best new restaurant in Texas.

    “I love Georgia James,” Shepherd said in a statement. “But I understand that it’s not a restaurant most people can visit on a daily or even weekly basis. Georgia James Tavern is designed to be a place where our guests want to — and can — eat every day.”

    Yes, two cast iron-seared steaks are on the menu for those who want to splurge, including an $85 wagyu ribeye with potatoes and onions, but the Tavern offers lots of less expensive options. That starts with four different sandwiches ($18-25), as well as chicken and fish that are both roasted in the restaurant's wood-burning oven. Javi's Club Sandwich, named for Shepherd's long-time butcher Javier Salvador, features turkey and ham that are both made in-house. Other dishes include an updated version of Georgia James's Farmers Cut salad called the Seven Vegetable Salad that features locally sourced produce that's roasted, charred, pickled, or preserved.

    “A tavern is a place for people to gather, drink, and eat,” chef de cuisine Matt "Tally" Coburn said. “We want to build a sense of community with this restaurant strengthened by our relationships with local farmers and ranchers, and the simple, technique-driven menu will reflect those relationships. My goal is for our guests to feel the culture we create from the moment they walk in the door.”

    The Underbelly Hospitality team has made their own contributions to the restaurant's offerings. Pastry director Victoria Dearmond has a new line of desserts, including a wood-roasted apple crumble that's a scaled down version of Georgia James' signature apple pie. Wine director Matthew Pridgen's list includes a mix of smaller and more well known producers at a range of price points, while spirits director Westin Galleymore promises at least a few allocated whiskeys along with classic cocktails.

    Nest Design Group transformed the former Coterie cafe into Georgia James Tavern. The interior features nods to Market Square Tower's Art Deco-inspired exterior such as marquee-style lights around the bar and vintage-inspired glass wall sconces. Other design elements include leather banquettes, brass accents, and Zellige tiles from Morocco on the back bar.

    “When it came to pairing a restaurant concept with Market Square Tower, we had only one criterion — find a chef-owner who matched the caliber of bespoke service that we offer our residents,” Jonathan Manocherian, principal of Market Square Tower developer Woodbranch, said. “We found exactly that in chef Shepherd . . . his projects and his talented team have elevated Houston’s culinary scene, and we are thrilled to see his vision brought to life here at the Georgia James Tavern.”

    Opening Georgia James Tavern kicks off a busy period for Underbelly Hospitality. Next up, the restaurant group will open two new concepts at the Houston Farmers Market: Underbelly Burger, a fast casual concept that will feature an updated version of Hay Merchant's popular Cease and Desist burger, and Wild Oats, chef Nick Fine's concept devoted to the “history and traditions of Texas cuisine."

    Next year, the company will open a still unnamed restaurant built around live fire cooking in the Regent Square mixed-use development currently under construction near Buffalo Bayou.

    -----

    Georgia James Tavern, 777 Preston, open Tuesday-Sunday beginning at 5 pm with lunch hours to follow soon.

    Javi's Club Sandwich.

    Georgia James Tavern Javi's Club Sandwich
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Javi's Club Sandwich.
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    water, water everywhere

    The quest for a Topo Chico replacement — we rate 9 sparkling waters

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 17, 2026 | 2:59 pm
    Sparkling water taste
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    We purchased sparkling water at five stores across the inner loop.

    Topo Chico drinkers nationwide are in a bit of a tizzy. Coca-Cola, which acquired the cult-favorite sparkling mineral water in 2017, announced that the product will be unavailable for at least the next few months.

    CNN reports the shortage is due to “facility upgrades at the water source and production facilities in Mexico.”

    “We are now making further investments at the source to improve source stability and quality and enable increased production, requiring us to temporarily stop production,” Coca-Cola said in a letter to CNN.

    For Topo Chico fans, the shortage brings an obvious question. What should a person drink until the supply is restored? Or, what’s a permanent replacement that will avoid this issue altogether?

    After collecting suggestions from people via Instagram, I went to Spec’s and inner loop grocery stores to purchase nine varieties of sparkling water with one goal in mind — find something that’s similar enough to Topo Chico that it will earn a spot in my refrigerator.

    In the interests of science, I only included sparkling water brands that are similar in size (approximately 12-ounce bottles) and price (between $1 and $1.50 per bottle). Whenever possible, I purchased glass bottles instead of cans or plastic. Although many are available in flavors, I only purchased unflavored waters. All waters were chilled overnight in a refrigerator prior to tasting.

    Sparkling water taste test Each water was chilled overnight prior to tasting.Photo by Eric Sandler

    Not surprisingly, my top three choices came down to two other Mexican sparkling waters and a convincing dupe from H-E-B.

    Most Similar to Topo Chico

    Agua de Piedra
    Purchased from Spec’s (can also be found at La Michocana), this water from Nuevo Leon, Mexico can be found at several restaurants and coffee shops around town. It offers both strong carbonation and just enough saltiness to satisfy a Topo craving. As long as I can source it reliably, this will be my new house water.

    Mineragua
    Available at both Whole Foods Market and H-E-B, this water from Jarritos is almost as carbonated as Topo Chico. Its flavor profile is salty with a slight, citrus-style acidity. I prefer the flavor of Agua de Piedra, but others may like this more.

    1877 Mineral Water by H-E-B
    H-E-B’s house brand sparkling mineral water is sourced from Texas, in Mineral Wells. It has carbonation that persists from opening until finishing. Its slightly salty flavor will be welcomed by Topo Chico drinkers. Overall, it’s probably the best choice for more people, since it’s so readily available.

    Less Like Topo, but Still Tasty

    Rambler Sparkling Water
    This mineral water from Austin is available everywhere, including many restaurants and bars. Since it's only available in cans, its more mild carbonation doesn’t match Topo Chico’s; however, it has a lightly salty taste that makes it very refreshing. This is a good option for those who find Topo to be too fizzy.

    Tehuacan
    Purchased at Central Market, this water is sourced from springs within Citlaltépetl, Mexico’s highest mountain. The mountain’s volcanic rock gives the water a noticeable saltiness with a slightly sour taste. Although it wasn’t quite to my taste, its strong carbonation and distinct flavor could appeal to other Topo devotees.

    Private Selection Sparkling Mineral Water
    Available at Kroger, this water is neither as carbonated nor as salty as Topo Chico. Still, it has enough fizz and minerality to do in a pinch, particularly for people who prefer shopping at Kroger over other grocery stores.

    Your Mileage May Vary

    Richard’s Sparkling Rainwater
    Admittedly, a non-mineral water was unlikely to emerge as a favorite in this taste test. Since it’s made with filtered rainwater, Richard’s has a very clean taste and a mild level of carbonation.

    Saratoga Carbonated Spring Water
    Like Richard’s, this water is too lightly carbonated and too mildly flavored to satisfy a Topo craving. Still, it’s clean and refreshing, which could appeal to non-Topo drinkers.

    I’ve Had Better

    Liquid Death Mountain Water (Sparkling)
    Bland and flat-tasting, this water was the only one I wouldn’t purchase again. Maybe the flavored versions are better.

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