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    Southern Smoke Returns

    Chris Shepherd's celeb-studded food fest brings culinary stars to Houston for one night only

    Eric Sandler
    May 31, 2018 | 11:30 am

    Chris Shepherd is getting the band back together for another smoke session. The fourth annual Southern Smoke Festival has once again staked its claim as one of Houston's best food events by bringing together some of the country's top culinary talent for a one-day only festival of food, wine, cocktails, and live music.

    Fresh off last year's festival, which for the first time included chefs from outside the South by inviting New York superstar chef David Chang and his Momofuku colleague Matthew Rudofker, Shepherd is expanding the roster of participating chefs to include culinary talent from all parts of the country. Given Shepherd's high-flying national reputation as both a James Beard Award winner and an unofficial face of Houston's culinary scene to the rest of the country — including a star turn in Chang's Houston-oriented episode of his Netflix series Ugly Delicious — no one should be surprised that he's attracted some of the hottest names in American food to attend this year's event, which take place Sunday, September 30, from 4 pm to 8 pm.

    "This year, I chose to invite friends from outside the South for a few reasons—to give our guests the opportunity to meet some new people that they may not be familiar with and to give these chefs the opportunity to see Houston," Shepherd tells CultureMap in an email. Quite a few of them haven’t been here before, and if they have, it’s been a long time or they were just passing through. Southern Smoke, to me, is just as much about showcasing Houston to the visiting chefs as it is about showcasing the visiting chefs to Houston.”

    Once again, Aaron Franklin headlines the lineup. At this point, the Austin-based pitmaster-owner of Franklin Barbecue needs no introduction or explanation, but it's worth noting that Loro, the restaurant he opened in partnership with Uchi chef-owner Tyson Cole, has debuted to rave reviews. Other returning chefs include Ryan Prewitt of acclaimed New Orleans restaurant Peche and the HOUBBQ collective, which this year includes Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan (The Pass & Provision), Hugo Ortega, Justin Yu, Ryan Pera, and more.

    Of the newcomers, Seattle's Edouardo Jordan brings the highest profile. He became the first African American chef to win the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in America for his Southern-inspired restaurant JuneBaby; in addition, he also won a Best Chef Northwest award for his restaurant Salare.

    Other names of note include: Chris Bianco, the famous pizzaiolo behind acclaimed Phoenix restaurant Pizzeria Bianco; Billy Durney, the pitmaster-owner of Hometown Bar-B-Que in Brooklyn; Daniela Soto-Innes, the former Houstonian who now serves as the James Beard Award-winning chef de cuisine at superstar Mexican chef Enrique Olvera's two New York restaurants, Cosme and Atla; Vivian Howard, the award-winning chef, cookbook author, and star of the PBS series A Chef's Life; and Jason Vincent, the chef-owner of Giant restaurant in Chicago, which earned a spot as one of Bon Appetit's best new restaurants in 2017.

    While Rodney Scott isn't returning this year, Shepherd has found two more whole hog specialists by inviting Pat Martin of Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint in Nashville and Sam Jones of Sam Jones BBQ in Winterville, North Carolina. So yes, there will be a whole lot of smoked pig.

    All of this culinary talent assembles to benefit two very worth causes. Last year, Southern Smoke raised $501,000 to benefit 139 members of the Houston culinary community who suffered financial losses as a result of Hurricane Harvey. This year's event will return to the original mission of raising money for the National MS Society — Shepherd has set a goal of $300,000 — while also working to establish a permanent emergency assistance fund for people in the food and beverage industry.

    Tickets — $200 general admission, $350 VIP, and $1,000 Super VIP (includes a culinary tour Friday night) — go on sale July 10. Expect them to sell quickly. No other Houston food event attracts this level of high-profile, out-of-town talent.

    Aaron Franklin and his brisket.

    Southern Smoke 2017 Aaron Franklin barbecue brisket
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
    Aaron Franklin and his brisket.
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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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