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    Sarcastic Pop-Up Dinner

    A sarcastic pop-up dinner: Houston chef shakes it up at a popular coffee shop

    Layne Lynch
    Aug 24, 2013 | 8:31 am

    Sunday is a big night for Houston foodies.

    At 5 p.m., Blacksmith is featuring a pop-up dinner by guest chef Michael Gaspard of Pappas, along with Brandon Silva and Justin Basye. This is the fifth dinner the popular Montrose coffee bar has featured this year. Previous pop-ups included Grant Gordon of Tony's, Willet Feng, Mala Sichuan and Pho Binh by Night.

    David Buehrer, co-owner of Blacksmith, has infused a strong culinary influence into his coffee shop, featuring a well-rounded, well-executed menu of pastries, biscuits and sandwiches, along with these exciting regular pop-ups.

    "Everything on the menu is very tongue and cheek and rather sarcastic."

    In piecing together the menu for his Sunday dinner, Gaspard focused on innards, calling the dishes protein driven, playful and creative.

    "I wanted to feature ingredients that are typically unapproachable and complicated and make them more approachable," he says. "Everything on the menu is very tongue and cheek and rather sarcastic.

    "These are heavier ingredients, but we're going to do smaller, lighter portions so it's not too overwhelming."

    Gaspard's menu features six items: Corned veal tongue with soft polenta, sweetbreads with fingerling potatoes, foie gras with onions (a play on liver and onions), coconut, green apple, onion and lemon verbena salad, braised pork shoulder, barbecue beef rib and a butterscotch pudding (made with very bad scotch, Gaspard jokes).

    The rib, foie gras and pork shoulder are what the Pappas chef feels will be the paramount dishes of his one-night-only menu.

    "I've made the pork shoulder dish before and it's something I get asked about by at least 15 people all the time," he says. "I braise it with lemon and milk and it comes out incredibly tender."

    Interestingly enough, Gaspard's beef rib was inspired by notorious Austin pitmaster: John Mueller. "I ate at John Mueller Barbecue recently and that whole experience was insane," Gaspard says. "John Mueller is a genius, and I'm not going to say the ribs are going to be on his level, but it's definitely inspired by his technique."

    Blacksmith's pop-up dinners have become wildly popular over the past few months, with the line typically running outside the door before the event even commences, so it's best to arrive early for this dinner if you want to grab a bite before the food runs out.

    For those who are in the mood for barbecue fare instead of offal and sweetbreads, Underbelly chef Patrick Feges will also be preparing an early dinner this Sunday. He will feature a menu of brisket, ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, beef sandwiches, smoked Frito pies and shortbread cookies from Tessie's Treats outside Anvil Bar & Refuge starting at 5 p.m.

    Choose a side, or if your feeling brazen, hit up both of these Sunday dinners. Just don't forget to wear stretchy pants.

    Blacksmith carries plenty of foodie cred — thanks in part to pop-up dinners from the likes of Michael Gaspard.

    michael gaspard brasserie 19
      
    Photo by Sarah Rufca
    Blacksmith carries plenty of foodie cred — thanks in part to pop-up dinners from the likes of Michael Gaspard.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    so hot right now

    Why pork chops are suddenly trendy at Houston's hottest restaurants

    Brianna Griff
    Apr 30, 2025 | 12:20 pm
    truth bbq pork chop houston
    TRUTH BBQ
    The Cornmeal-Crusted Pork Chop at Truth BBQ is brined in sweet tea for 72 hours before being cold-smoked, battered, and deep fried.

    This may be presumptuous, but pork chops just might be the meat of the year for 2025.

    The cut is popping up on menus all over Houston, leaving us to wonder: what’s making this part of the pig so appealing again?

    This isn’t your mom’s dry, Shake 'n Bake pork chops served with a pile of boiled green beans. Rather, Houston chefs are transforming the once-humble cut into something worth seeking out.

    Travis McShane, chef and owner of Ostia, says pork is getting a glow-up, with American-raised pork now rivaling the quality found in countries like Spain. He credits the rise in demand to changing perceptions.

    “For years, pork was kinda seen as a lesser or cheaper item. I think this was because older health recommendations painted pork as unhealthy and recommended it to be cooked well done,” he said. “Thank goodness that has all changed, and people understand you can eat pork closer to a medium cook temperature.”

    Truth BBQ offers pork as a lighter, more budget-friendly alternative for diners looking to mix up their usual order. While restaurants like Snows BBQ feature pork steaks, owner and pitmaster Leonard Botello IV wanted something a little different for his Washington Ave. restaurant.

    “We had a lot of fun working with our team on different pork cuts and how we could prepare them to create something a little more unique to us,” says Botello. “It’s a great add-on to a platter or stand-alone option because it’s one chop — just enough.”

    The Cornmeal-Crusted Pork Chop at Truth is a center-cut, bone-in Duroc chop, available for lunch and dinner from Friday through Sunday. It’s brined in sweet tea for 72 hours, then cold-smoked, battered in cornmeal, and deep-fried. The chop is served with a Carolina-style sweet pepper relish, adding a punchy finish to the deep-fried crust.

    The consensus across restaurants is that brining is key. Soaking pork chops in salt water helps lock in moisture, tenderize the meat, and infuse flavor throughout.

    At Ostia, the pork is brined for at least two hours before it’s fully dried out to either grill or fry. The Pork Milanese is inspired by both the simple, bright flavor combinations of Italy’s Milanese and the crispy, panko breading of Japanese Tonkatsu. Another rendition of the pork chop is fried with oyster aioli and celery.

    “The umami of oysters, anchovies, seaweed is a beautiful combination with the rich nutty fat of pork!” McShane said.

    At Milton’s, Executive Chef Kent Domas added the aptly named Pork Chop ($95) to offer an alternative to the trattoria's signature chicken parm and veal parm. Brined and then grilled in a wood-burning oven, the simple, but flavorful, pork chop can be shared between two or more diners and is served with glazed cipollini onions.

    Michelin Bib Gourmand Belly of the Beast in Spring serves up a 16-ounce Berkshire pork chop alongside fregola (a nutty, couscous-like pasta), artichokes, apricots, and a hint of harissa for some heat. Tangy lemon jus ties it all together.

    The Sakura Farms Pork Chop at Baso has been a fan favorite since the Basque-influenced restaurant opened in December 2023. The chop is grilled over the restaurant’s live fire hearth, before it’s topped with a rich pork jowl sauce, dusted with dried local chamomile powder, and served with a slice of Meyer lemon. Chefs and 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Award Rising Star Chef of the Year winners Jacques Varon and Max Lappe recommend pairing the dish with a glass of Rosé on a hot Houston day.

    At Credence near Memorial City Mall, the team created the Pork Rib Chop Schnitzel as an ode to Texas’ culinary roots. The schnitzel is both a nod to Eastern European immigrants who brought the recipe to Texas in the mid-1850s and to the Germans who introduced Mexico to Wiener Schnitzel in the late 1800s.

    The ranch-inspired establishment’s heritage-breed pork is pounded thin on the bone, brined, breaded, and then fried until crispy, before it’s finished with a caper brown butter sauce.

    Of course, one Houston restaurant has been championing pork chops for more than 40 years. Perry’s Steakhouse will celebrate its 1979 opening this Friday, May 2 with a throwback deal: a lunch-sized portion of its famous pork chop for just 79 cents. It’s served on a cast-iron plate with whipped potatoes, applesauce, and bread.

    truth bbq pork chop houston
      

    TRUTH BBQ

    The Cornmeal-Crusted Pork Chop at Truth BBQ is brined in sweet tea for 72 hours before being cold-smoked, battered, and deep fried.

    news-you-can-eatdinnerpork chops
    news/restaurants-bars
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