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    Food for Thought

    '80s redux: Will the drop in the price of oil hurt — or help — Houston restaurants?

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Jan 12, 2015 | 11:47 am

    Steve Zimmerman, owner of La Colombe d’Or, the fabulous historic boutique hotel and classic restaurant now known as Cinq, made national headlines during the 1980s oil bust by offering an executive lunch for the day’s price of oil.

    “We were actually just thinking about bringing it back,” laughs Zimmerman. “If the oil prices drop into the $40 range per barrel maybe we’ll do an Oil Barrel Special, a three-course dinner for the price of oil.”

    While the rest of the nation may be rejoicing at low prices at the pump, Houston businesses, including restaurants, are keeping a wary eye on the dropping price of oil, currently selling at about half of its highest price in 2014. Houston is not nearly as dependent on the oil business now as it was in the '80s, but a worldwide oil glut can still send ripples through the local economy.

    “If the oil prices drop into the $40 range per barrel maybe we’ll do an Oil Barrel Special, a three-course dinner for the price of oil," says Zimmerman.

    And another veteran restaurateur sees problems ahead, although not nearly on the '80s level.

    “If the price of oil stays this low,” he says, “it will affect all of us.

    “Maybe the couple that normally order a $100 bottle of wine at dinner will start to order a $35 bottle,” he says. “And maybe there won’t be as many businessmen wining and dining clients for dinner.”

    A lot of Cinq’s customers are wheelers and dealers in the energy business, and Zimmerman says they tell him the current situation is less crash and more a hiccup. Still everyone seems to be in a wait and see mode.

    “I think everyone’s been thinking about it,” says Shepard Ross, who currently has three restaurants and a fourth on the way. “We haven’t seen any difference yet in sales at Glass Wall or Brooklyn Athletic Club and Pax Americana is so new it’s hard to tell. But if oil prices stay low it will affect the local economy, and the first thing we’ll start to see are lower wine sales. But our concepts are very neighborhood focused, I’d be more worried if we were a big steakhouse dependent on expense accounts.”

    Silver linings

    Ross and his partners are still going ahead with The Del, their latest concept, and Ross actually thinks those looking to start a restaurant may find a down energy economy offers lower land prices and leases.

    And chef/owner Lynette Hawkins is hoping it might actually help business as Giacomo’s cibo e vino.

    "If they aren’t paying as much for gas they have more disposable income and maybe instead of dining here once a week they’ll come twice a week," says Hawkins.

    “We’re a casual Italian concept and wine bar with pretty reasonable prices,” she says. “Most of our customers are regulars from the neighborhood. If they aren’t paying as much for gas they have more disposable income and maybe instead of dining here once a week they’ll come twice a week.”

    She’s also hopeful that her suppliers will drop or at least reduce the fuel surcharge, although she hasn’t seen that yet.

    “Restaurants in Houston are a very competitive market,” Ross says. “But eating out has become such a part of our lifestyle I think people will keep doing it, but they may spend less. I think the higher end places may feel it more than local concepts with more flexible menu prices.

    “There are so many places that offer good food, but the ones that survive will be the ones that also offer good hospitality. If you have less money to spend on dining out you’re more likely to go to the places that know you and treat you well. Places that know your name and what table you like to sit at. Those places will survive.”

    Insiders say one indication that restaurants are starting to feel the pinch of a slower economy could be a benefit for diners: you might start seeing a lot more coupons and dining specials pop up in your emails.

    -----------------------

    UPDATE: Late Monday afternoon, as oil fell to less than $46 a barrel, Zimmerman said he would revive the Oil Barrel Special, starting Wednesday (Jan. 14).

    La Colombe d'Or made national headlines during the 1980s oil bust by offering an executive lunch for the day’s price of oil. Now the restaurant is named Cinq.

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    fit to print

    New York Times critic awards Houston restaurant 2 stars in glowing review

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Chopnblok food spread
    Courtesy of ChòpnBlọk
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    Let’s just call 2025 the year of ChòpnBlọk. In a review published Tuesday, December 16, the New York Times has awarded the Houston restaurant two stars (“very good”).

    Written by chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao, the review touts many of the same qualities that the Times already praised when it included ChòpnBlọk on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

    Rao writes that she usually avoids restaurants that serve food in bowls, but she’s impressed by the way that chef-owner Ope Amosu has put a West African spin on the concept.

    “For inspiration, Ope Amosu looked to the kind of chain restaurants that were built to scale, where flavors are often subdued to appeal to the broadest possible audience, focus-grouped to death. But the delight of ChòpnBlok is in its sure sense of self, its lively, multidimensional cooking and clear, delicious vision for modern food from the Black diaspora,” Rao writes.

    She singles out specific dishes, including the Nigerian red stew with short rib, the Black Star bowl with shrimp, and the signature Motherland, made with chicken, greens, and plantains. “It’s utterly simple, but draws you in for more with the mouthwatering twang of not-too-much MSG — an international shortcut to building umami that tends to be used carefully, and layered with other forms,” she writes.

    The review also touches on the way Amosu switched the restaurant from counter service to full service — described as “warm, informal, and quick with the jokes” — and his time working at Chipotle to learn the basics of the restaurant operations.

    A two-star review is only the latest instance of ChòpnBlọk receiving national attention. In addition to the Times 50 best list, Esquire recently named it one of America’s best new restaurants. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand designation for 2025. Amosu earned a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards.

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