Zelko Bistro

When Jamie Zelko packed up her knives from Bistro Lancaster after making a splash with her locally grown, meticulously presented versions of American comfort food, she put all her efforts into creating Zelko Bistro. Zelko and general manager Jeb Stuart (formerly of Shade) have taken a prototypical Heights bungalow and essentially hollowed it out, opening up the rafters to display the beautifully preserved wood surfaces. The homey but minimalist dining room is given a dose of nostalgic Heights charm with details like the mason jar hanging lights over the bar and vintage 1920s photographs from Houston. While Zelko's menu focuses on the flavorful American standards she does best — root beer short ribs, crab cakes, burgers, meat loaf, and chicken-fried chicken — Stuart handles the wine list, rotating in about 50 bottles from less-familiar locales, with price points at $40 and below for experimentation and discovery.

Zelko seats about 50 people and has a no reservations policy. We recommend grabbing a spot at the bar or coming in at off-peak times.