When the Cheng family, owners of the Azuma dynasty, closed their Vietnamese outpost Hue to replace it with a more focused modern-Japanese menu, we wondered whether this would just be Azuma #4. Instead they poached the prodigiously talented Manabu "Hori" Horiuchi from Kubo's (Hori-san has worked under Japan's sushi masters and trained at the prestigious Tsuji Culinary Institute) and set up a diverse menu of modern Japanese creations. The result is Houston's best sushi restaurant. Choose from traditional nigiri or more adventurous fare like the Caribbean roll with lobster tempura and mango and the sexy roll with eel, tuna, fried shrimp and jalapeño. Noodle dishes and robata offerings are also extensive — don't miss the lobster mac and cheese or 72-hour braised kobe beef skewers. For the best experience, sit front and center at the sushi bar and give your meal over to Hori-san by ordering omakase, Japanese for "it's up to you."