Cuban fusion

Houston sandwich pop-up presses forward with a brick-and-mortar home

A popular Houston sandwich pop-up has found a brick-and-mortar home. Known for its Brazilian and Cuban sandwiches, Yuma has claimed the former Ninja Ramen space (4219 Washington Ave.) for a new restaurant that will open this spring.

Yuma takes inspiration from the heritage of its owners, husband-and-wife duo Mike Hartley and Miriam Leek-Meira. Chef Hartley brings experience from his time as the executive sous chef of Brasserie 19, while Leek-Meira brings a passion for introducing Houstonians to Brazilian cuisine that transcends the familiar churrascaria steakhouse experience that’s served at restaurants such as Fogo de Chao and Chama Gaucha.

“We have so, so much more to offer,” Leek-Meira said in a statement. “We have amazing fruits, we eat other meats, we have amazing seafood, and we even eat vegetables, so I’m really excited to introduce people to what I grew up eating in Brazil through the prism of the Cuban sandwich.”

At the heart of the restaurant’s menu will be the sandwiches that have powered Yuma’s pop-ups, all of which are served on bread that’s baked in-house. They include a classic Cuban sandwich, the Sampa Gallo chicken sandwich, and the A Caipira, a Brazilian take on a cheesesteak. The menu also includes croquettes, Pastel de Bife (Brazilian beef empanadas), and Pão de Queijo, the craveable Brazilian cheese rolls.

Yuma also creates sandwiches inspired by other cultures, such as the Vietnamese-style El Penny Cubano Banh Mi — made with mojo pork and ham that’s topped with Gruyere, garlic aioli, pate, pickled carrots, daikon, cilantro, and jalapeno. In November, Yuma served the Leftover Gringo, a Thanksgiving-inspired sandwich made with roast turkey; a casserole-style sauce made with Catupiry, corn, and tinga; Peruvian pearl peppers; and Gruyère.

“This concept is one-of-a-kind but also approachable, much like this amazing city that we live in,” Hartley said. “Miriam and I have set out to create something completely unique, and we are excited to share it with everyone. We love the location, and want to ride the balance between new and exciting, combined with comforting and familiar.”

For the restaurant, the couple worked with Nancy’s Hustle bartender Jamie Diaz to create Brazilian and Cuban-inspired cocktails centered around cachaca and rum.

While the restaurant is under construction, Yuma will continue to hold pop-ups around Houston. Confirmed dates include Bobcat Teddy’s on January 17 and 19; Axelrad every Thursday in January; and Catbirds every Wednesday in January. It will also serve lunch at Third Place on February 7.

Photo by Rebekah Flores

Yuma will serve sandwiches, croquettes, and more.

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a major award

Houston sushi spot's Dubai outpost named to prestigious 50 best list

Courtesy of Duckstache Hospitality

Kokoro's original Dubai location received the award.

The Dubai location of a Houston-based Japanese restaurant has been named one of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Kokoro ranks No. 15 on the Middle East & North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Presented by the same organization as the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, Kokoro earned recognition for its location in Al Quoz, Dubai, one of three locations in the city. Considered to be the city’s first handroll bar (according to press materials), the list’s authors praise the restaurant’s whimsical design and the signature temaki that Houstonians know well.

“Pristine nori-wrapped parcels packed with crunchy, creamy and zesty elements — Kokoro's hand rolls are the highlight of the menu,” the entry reads in part. “Made to order with the likes of Japanese yellowtail, salmon, Hokkaido scallop and marbled A5 wagyu beef, each cone-shaped offering combines the freshest of ingredients with masterfully prepared rice to create a handheld package that's big on precision, but small on pretence.”

Chefs Daniel Lee and Patrick Pham opened the original Kokoro in Houston’s Bravery Chef Hall in 2019. Since then, the duo’s Duckstache Hospitality has expanded with three locations of handroll concept Handies Douzo, Garden Oaks sushi restaurant Himari, Kokoro Handroll Bar in The Woodlands, Doko and Bar Doko in Autry Park, and Aiko, their Washington Avenue restaurant that won Best New Restaurant in the 2023 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

In Dubai, the company partnered with FYTE Hospitality. Like its Houston locations, the Dubai restaurants are adorned with Duckstache’s signature “duckies” — a whimsical element that bridges the more than 8,000 miles that separates the two cities.

“Dubai’s food scene is one of the most diverse in the world. The culinary landscape of this city is always evolving, and we saw an opportunity to bring something new to the market while staying true to what we’ve built in Houston,” Lee said in a statement. “Kokoro is all about quality, precision, and that made-to-order experience and now we get to share that with Dubai while still giving Houstonians something familiar to smile about when they walk in.”

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