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    Food for Thought

    The Bermuda Triangle of Houston restaurant locales finds new life: Inside the city's eating history

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Nov 26, 2013 | 2:42 pm

    In a city that loves to tear down history and replace it with parking lots and multi-use high rises, it’s nice that some restaurants are still here, even if they morph into different eateries.

    I recently got into a game of Name the Previous Restaurant with my favorite waiter at Frank’s Americana Revival, and I lost. Of course, before Mike Shine bought it, it was Frank’s Chop House but before that I remember it as being Joyce’s Ocean Grill. But then Fernando brought up the fact that it was originally an outpost of The Stables, a River Oaks classic known for strong cocktails, grilled steaks and people watching.

    Haven’t thought about that place in years.

    That building has been more eateries than even I can remember. We used to call it the Bermuda Triangle of restaurants.

    And take the new 60 Degrees Mastercrafted on Westheimer Road. The former home of John Moore’s Palazzos Trattoria, this building goes way back. Originally built as a fast food drive through, when I first came to Houston it was Armandos, then something I vaguely remember called Dish either before or after it was an outside the Loop version of Two Chefs Bistro, which had wonderful angels on horseback, a hot appetizer of baked oysters wrapped in bacon by chef Andreas Zierau.

    Then for a long time it was Arturo Boada’s Beso before becoming Palazzos. And now 60 Degrees Mastercrafted, yet another new restaurant I haven’t gotten to yet. New restaurants opening in Houston in the final months of 2013 have been as numerous as bluebonnets sprouting in springtime.

    But I did make it over to the new Liberty Kitchen & Oysterette in the former Vida Tex-Mex spot, which, if I recall correctly was once a Mary Lee Donut shop. If you like oysters, raw or grilled, this is a fun spot for slurping and noshing.

    And it’s hard to imagine now, when dining at the elegant The Pass & Provisions that not only was it once Scott Tycer’s Gravitas, but that for ages Houstonians used to sit at picnic tables and eat tuna wraps there at the original Antone’s Famous Po’ Boys & Deli.

    Braving The Curse

    What about Torchy’s Taco on South Shepherd Drive? That building has been more eateries than even I can remember. We used to call it the Bermuda Triangle of restaurants. I can’t believe anyone would want to open another restaurant there, but it looks like Torchy’s just might make it work out.

    And so it goes. Local Foods is about to open a second location in the former Taco Milagro spot and Pico’s Mex-Mex appears to be finely ready to open in the Old Ninfa’s at the corner of Kirby Drive and Richmond Avenue. There is a sign up that reads “Now hiring.” Yeah!

    In the honor of full disclosure, I should mention between these two icons there was also the short-lived Maggie Rita’s in this building. But that’s enough said about that.

    There is one spot I’ve been keeping an eye on, waiting for news of a new eatery at — and that’s the location of the original Andre’s Café at the corner of Westheimer Road and River Oaks Boulevard. For as long as I remember it was a quaint little spot for coffee and pastries with a pretty hearty breakfast and lunch menu. It’s a shame it’s been empty so long.

    Hopefully something will go in there soon.

    And it’s hard to imagine now, when dining at the elegant The Pass & Provisions, that not only was it once Scott Tycer’s Gravitas but for ages Houstonians used to sit at picnic tables and eat tuna wraps at the original Antone’s Famous Po’ Boys & Deli.

    The Pass & Provisions interior blurred
    The Pass & Provisions Facebook
    And it’s hard to imagine now, when dining at the elegant The Pass & Provisions, that not only was it once Scott Tycer’s Gravitas but for ages Houstonians used to sit at picnic tables and eat tuna wraps at the original Antone’s Famous Po’ Boys & Deli.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    here comes the breeze

    Veteran French chef blows into Bellaire with a new neighborhood bistro

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 5, 2026 | 9:15 am
    Bistro Mistral French onion soup
    Courtesy of Bistro Mistral
    Bistro Mistral serves classic fare like French onion soup.

    One of Houston’s most well-regarded French chefs has opened a new restaurant in Bellaire. Bistro Mistral is the latest project from chef David Denis.

    Located in the former P King Chinese Food space at 5313 Bellaire Blvd, Bistro Mistral continues the legacy of Le Mistral, chef Denis’ celebrated French restaurant in the Energy Corridor that closed in 2019. In 2023, Denis opened Cocody, a fine dining French restaurant in the River Oaks Shopping Center, but he parted ways with that restaurant in October 2025. Denis also recently rebranded Memorial’s Bistro 555 as Bistro Mistral, giving the restaurant two locations.

    At Bistro Mistral, Denis is serving classic French fare such as French onion soup, escargot, beef bourguignon, duck cassoulet, and more. The dessert menu features staples such as profiteroles, tarte tatin, and creme brulee. An extensive selection of French wines can be paired with the restaurant’s dishes.

    Bistro Mistral is open for lunch and dinner service Wednesday through Friday, brunch and dinner on Saturday, and brunch on Sunday. It is closed Monday and Tuesday.

    “Bistro Mistral represents my lifelong passion for French cuisine and hospitality,” chef Denis said in a statement. “My goal has always been to share the artistry I’ve built over the years by blending tradition with refinement and elegance. It is truly an honor to bring this experience to the Bellaire community.”

    Bistro Mistral French onion soup

    Courtesy of Bistro Mistral

    Bistro Mistral serves classic fare like French onion soup.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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