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    Food for Thought

    The Bermuda Triangle of Houston restaurant locales finds new life: Inside the city's eating history

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Nov 26, 2013 | 2:42 pm

    In a city that loves to tear down history and replace it with parking lots and multi-use high rises, it’s nice that some restaurants are still here, even if they morph into different eateries.

    I recently got into a game of Name the Previous Restaurant with my favorite waiter at Frank’s Americana Revival, and I lost. Of course, before Mike Shine bought it, it was Frank’s Chop House but before that I remember it as being Joyce’s Ocean Grill. But then Fernando brought up the fact that it was originally an outpost of The Stables, a River Oaks classic known for strong cocktails, grilled steaks and people watching.

    Haven’t thought about that place in years.

    That building has been more eateries than even I can remember. We used to call it the Bermuda Triangle of restaurants.

    And take the new 60 Degrees Mastercrafted on Westheimer Road. The former home of John Moore’s Palazzos Trattoria, this building goes way back. Originally built as a fast food drive through, when I first came to Houston it was Armandos, then something I vaguely remember called Dish either before or after it was an outside the Loop version of Two Chefs Bistro, which had wonderful angels on horseback, a hot appetizer of baked oysters wrapped in bacon by chef Andreas Zierau.

    Then for a long time it was Arturo Boada’s Beso before becoming Palazzos. And now 60 Degrees Mastercrafted, yet another new restaurant I haven’t gotten to yet. New restaurants opening in Houston in the final months of 2013 have been as numerous as bluebonnets sprouting in springtime.

    But I did make it over to the new Liberty Kitchen & Oysterette in the former Vida Tex-Mex spot, which, if I recall correctly was once a Mary Lee Donut shop. If you like oysters, raw or grilled, this is a fun spot for slurping and noshing.

    And it’s hard to imagine now, when dining at the elegant The Pass & Provisions that not only was it once Scott Tycer’s Gravitas, but that for ages Houstonians used to sit at picnic tables and eat tuna wraps there at the original Antone’s Famous Po’ Boys & Deli.

    Braving The Curse

    What about Torchy’s Taco on South Shepherd Drive? That building has been more eateries than even I can remember. We used to call it the Bermuda Triangle of restaurants. I can’t believe anyone would want to open another restaurant there, but it looks like Torchy’s just might make it work out.

    And so it goes. Local Foods is about to open a second location in the former Taco Milagro spot and Pico’s Mex-Mex appears to be finely ready to open in the Old Ninfa’s at the corner of Kirby Drive and Richmond Avenue. There is a sign up that reads “Now hiring.” Yeah!

    In the honor of full disclosure, I should mention between these two icons there was also the short-lived Maggie Rita’s in this building. But that’s enough said about that.

    There is one spot I’ve been keeping an eye on, waiting for news of a new eatery at — and that’s the location of the original Andre’s Café at the corner of Westheimer Road and River Oaks Boulevard. For as long as I remember it was a quaint little spot for coffee and pastries with a pretty hearty breakfast and lunch menu. It’s a shame it’s been empty so long.

    Hopefully something will go in there soon.

    And it’s hard to imagine now, when dining at the elegant The Pass & Provisions, that not only was it once Scott Tycer’s Gravitas but for ages Houstonians used to sit at picnic tables and eat tuna wraps at the original Antone’s Famous Po’ Boys & Deli.

    The Pass & Provisions interior blurred
    The Pass & Provisions Facebook
    And it’s hard to imagine now, when dining at the elegant The Pass & Provisions, that not only was it once Scott Tycer’s Gravitas but for ages Houstonians used to sit at picnic tables and eat tuna wraps at the original Antone’s Famous Po’ Boys & Deli.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    What's up, Doc?

    Houston's new retro-styled jazz supper club sets opening date

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 4, 2025 | 10:12 am
    Doc's Houston jazz club marquee
    Photo by Matthew Casby
    Doc's Houston opens November 15.

    Brent “Doc” Watkins has a very specific reference for Doc’s Houston, his new jazz supper club that’s opening November 15 in the historic Tower Theater in Montrose.

    “I ask them if they’ve seen the movie Goodfellas,” Watkins tells CultureMap. “If they have, there's that famous scene where Ray Liotta takes his girlfriend to the supper club. They walk through the secret entrance and go in through the kitchen. They bring out a special table with the white tablecloth and they sit down and the show starts.”



    The very famous scene captures the spirit of what Watkins wants to create at Doc’s Houston — an intimate venue serving classic American fare and showcasing live music in genres such as jazz, R&B, soul, and the blues. It’s a formula that Watkins developed at Jazz, TX, his original jazz supper club that’s part of San Antonio’s Pearl District since 2016. He says Houston was always a logical choice to expand the concept.

    “Doing a proper jazz supper club, there wasn’t anything like that in Houston 10 years ago, and there wasn’t anything like that now until Doc’s,” Watkins says.

    Let’s start with the jazz part first. Doc’s will host live music Tuesday through Saturday in a variety of genres. Artistic director Graeme Franci, who, like Watkins, holds a doctorate in music from the University of Texas, is a Houstonian with a deep knowledge of the local music scene. He’s been reaching out to musicians and booking them to play Doc’s. In addition to local acts, the venue will host national touring acts — Tony Danza recently played San Antonio — and as many as 30 performances by Watkins himself.

    From his perspective, Doc’s provides an essential space for friends and neighbors to connect during a shared experience.

    “We aren’t inventing a brand new concept. We’re reviving something that had been lost,” Watkins explains. Later, he adds, “These are really essential spaces. It’s a very ancient tradition to gather as smaller groups of people for a meal and some music. It’s a very timeless thing. There was a blip on the radar where we lost these rooms for about a generation.”

    In terms of the food, chef Jose Avila’s menu is built around classic supper club fare such as steaks, seafood, and pastas. Specific dishes include grilled octopus, short rib empanadas, pork belly chicharron paella, coq au vin, and Chateaubriand that will be carved to order tableside.

    “We’ve got a massive kitchen. We’ve got the ability to do a big menu and do it right,” Watkins says. “You can’t be all things to all people, but we’ll get pretty damn close.”

    Doc's Houston jazz club staff Watkins has assembled an experience team to lead Doc's Houston.Courtesy of Doc's Houston

    The Tower Theater has had a number of lives. Most recently home to Acme Oyster House and El Real Tex-Mex Cafe, it’s also been a movie theater and a video store, among other iterations. To turn it into Doc’s, Watkins and his team added all-new lighting and sound, built a stage, and added a wraparound balcony.

    “When we found it, it was pretty wonky. The orientation was all wrong,” Watkins says. “We decided to go big and do it right. That balcony is new, but it looks like it’s always been that way. It’s how the space needs to be and wants to be, even though for 100 years it did not have a full wraparound balcony.”

    Reservations and tickets will be available via the Doc’s website in the coming days. Memberships will be available that come with perks such as preferred seating and advance access.

    “I hope we’re around for a very long time,” Watkins says. “I think we’ve set ourselves up to be around for a very long time. We’ve got all the ingredients that go into success. Now we just have to execute.”

    Doc's Houston jazz club marquee

    Photo by Matthew Casby

    Doc's Houston opens November 15.

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