A Veggie Revolution

Houston, the land of healthy eating? Believe it or not, fatty comfort food nolonger reigns

Sorrel's scallops
Photo by Kimberly Park
Pondicheri's barley salad
Pondicheri/Facebook
Smoothies at Roots Juice
Photo by Karen Burd
Veggie burger from Green Seed Vegan
Photo by Ruthie Johnson Miller
Crepes by Radical Eats
Radical Eats

Let’s get one thing out of the way: Houston is — and always will be — a burger town. Steakhouses trump all here, and fried chicken may as well be our official city bird.

We’ve long been the butt of our national health crisis, called out by the media as obese and heart diseased. If Portland is the fittest, we are the fattest. As the energy fields grow, so do our waistlines. They wonder if we drink butter from our 10-gallon hats.

The last few years have seen comfort food glorified further, spawning “kitschilly” popular new restaurants and gracing menus in creative new ways. But somewhere amid the biscuits and gravy, shrimp and grits, macaroni and cheese, we have cleaned up our act. A bit.

Our love affair with waffles-n-wings will never end — at least I hope not. It’s just that more places are taking care to offer salads, veggies and grilled fish, too.

Sure, farmers markets and CSAs have been on the rise for years, nudging us to buy local and eat our veggies. But even beyond our own cooking prowess, restaurants, too, have healthified. Comfort was king last year — but recently it’s been more about downsizing.

Over the last year or two, Houston has seen the introduction of vegan restaurants in Radical Eats and Green Seed Vegan. Pondicheri earns ooohs and aaahs for its regular Meatless Monday menu, while the new Doshi House is all vegetarian, all the time.

A number of favorite restaurants have introduced lighter, vegetarian sampler plates. There’s even a vegetarian tasting menu at Oxheart. We’ve got a new juice bar in Roots Juice — and a juice bar on wheels in Juice Girl.

More places offer healthier and organic take-away options, like Relish and Revival Market. Or simply skew lighter, like Local Foods, Sorrel Urban Bistro and Adair Kitchen.

While the longevity of such places remains to be seen, their popularity indicates a demand. No, our love affair with waffles-n-wings will never end — at least I hope not. It’s just that more places are taking care to offer salads, veggies and grilled fish, too.

I love chicken fried steak as much as the next gal, but it’s nice to have these clean-living options. Underbelly, for example, whose menu could never be confused with health food, offers one of my favorite salads in town: A huge pile of mixed greens topped with roasted seasonal veggies and only the slightest hint of vinaigrette.

Like a comfy bear hug in a time of need, comfort food will always be there. But while our mayor hasn’t proposed a soft drink ban [yet], if you couple our healthier food trends with the city’s new green initiatives — adding bike paths, building parks, planting trees — you might even call Houston health conscious.

And that’s some name calling we can live with.

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Bowling over Houston

Gluten-free Austin restaurant picks River Oaks for first Houston store

Rendering of Honest Mary's in River Oaks

Rendering by Mark Odom Studio

Honest Mary's, an Austin-based eatery, is expanding with a new location in Houston's River Oaks in fall 2025.

It will be a Houston homecoming for restauranteur Nelson Monteith with the fall 2025 debut of Honest Mary’s in River Oaks.

“It’s a joy and honor to bring a brand we’ve worked hard to create in Austin and finally be able to share that concept with friends and family in Houston,” Monteith said in a statement. “There’s a bit of built-in comfort in knowing there are folks here who are already fans of Honest Mary’s. They’ve been asking us for years to open a location in Houston, and now it’s happening.”

Located at 2047-A West Gray St., Honest Mary's will occupy the current La Madeleine space. It is not known at this time when La Madeleine will close, but construction on Honest Mary's is expected to begin in May 2025.

Monteith and his wife, Mary, launched Honest Mary’s in 2017 after embracing mindful eating to improve their health. Since then, the Austin-based eatery that describes itself as serving "life-giving fast food" has expanded to four locations, with the upcoming River Oaks spot marking its arrival in Houston.

“There’s healthy food, fresh food, and fast food,” he said. “We wanted to create something that fits into that sweet spot without sacrificing quality or convenience. The trend towards healthy eating and the reality of busy lifestyles aren’t slowing down. We offer a place that caters to both.”

At the center of Honest Mary’s menu are five signature bowls ranging from poke to vegetarian, including the smoky poblano ($10.25) that features a basmati rice base with fresh vegetables of wild arugula, sweet corn, and pickled onions in a creamy poblano sauce. Co-partner and chef Andrew Wiseheart, known for Austin’s Contigo and Ladybird Taco, leads the kitchen.

Honest Mary's menu features healthy, gluten-free bowls. Guests can choose from five signature bowls at Honest Mary's, or create their own.Courtesy of Honest Mary's

Diners can build their own bowls by selecting a base like quinoa, proteins including grilled chicken and tuna, and vegetables such as sweet potatoes. Pickled onions, cucumber salad, and avocado are among the topping selections, with sauces like lemon garlic and cashew-lime crema.

Scratch-made sipping broths round out the menu, with the chicken bone broth packed with celery, carrots, onions and parsley, or an umami-rich seaweed and mushroom broth.

A selection of house-made aguas frescas and teas, local craft beer, wine, kombucha, and organic cold-pressed juices will be available, as will Honest Mary’s popular almond butter cookies sweetened with maple syrup and topped with a sprinkle of Maldon salt.

Rendering by Mark Odom Studio

Honest Mary's, an Austin-based eatery, is expanding with a new location in Houston's River Oaks in fall 2025.

With its fully gluten-free menu, Honest Mary’s caters to a range of dietary preferences, including vegetarian, vegan, and dairy-free. To align with Monteith’s dedication to nutrition, Honest Mary’s uses seed oils sparingly and prioritizes local and organic ingredients when possible.

“River Oaks Shopping Center has a unique blend of history and vibrant new concepts, making it the ideal home for us,” Monteith said. “We aim to be a neighborhood spot where people can enjoy delicious, healthy food.”

Lunden McGill and John Frazier of Baker Katz brokered the deal for the 2,200-square-foot space and additional patio with seating for 38 inside and 44 outside. Mark Odom Studio is responsible for architecture and design.

Honest Mary’s signature elements of terra cotta and blue tilework will be incorporated to provide consistency between all five locations, while Art Deco-inspired decor of lush greenery, warm wood tones and natural light will align the space with the River Oaks Shopping Center’s structure.

Takeaway, delivery, and dine-in will be provided daily from 11 am to 9 pm.

news-you-can-eat openings honest mary's