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    foodie news

    Houston Restaurant Week speed dating: Molé mania at Cielo & illicit chit Chaatat Indika

    Steven Devadanam
    Aug 23, 2010 | 11:37 am
    • Chocolate mole enchiladas at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Tortilla soup at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Oven roasted heirloom eggplant stuffed with paneer and cashews at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Mulligatawny soup at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Mango kulfi at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Chaat at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Chocolate bread pudding at Indika
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Patra fish at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Tacos al carbon at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson

    Dear Restaurant Week Diary,

    I'm beginning to think that participating in Houston Restaurant Week is the new speed dating: The quick judgments, the merry-go-round of seats, the frugal feast — it's all part of the thrilling rush of snagging a tantalizing new supper.

    I've been making the rounds, and although I'll deny the tweets accusing me of being a "#restaurantweekslut," it's been a pleasure rekindling with some of the city's finer dining establishments.

    At a recent lunch, I checked in with a coworker at Cielo — the slightly upscale Tex-Mex eatery on the north end of downtown. Don't go here for people watching, because there aren't ever any people at Cielo. Also, don't go for the first course of the lunch menu. My tortilla soup was decent enough, but seemed to feature vegetables straight out of a bag of frozen mixed peas and carrots.

    My companion's salad differed greatly from its description on the menu. What was meant to be a mix of baby field greens, sun-dried figs, pea pods and cherry tomatoes tossed in a roasted hazelnut vinaigrette arrived at the table as a wilted heap of mushy bagged salad mix accompanied by slices of cucumber and scant slabs of unripe tomatoes — no figs or pea pods in sight. In a word, the salad was inedible.

    Nevertheless, Cielo won our hearts with the main courses. The chocolate molé atop chicken enchiladas had a quality that can't be found on Richmond Avenue's Tex-Mex dives, and was accompanied by a ramekin of refried beans with a silky texture unlike the more common gelatinous, pasty variety. The tacos al carbon also pleased, simply complemented with chopped cilantro and crumbled queso fresco (although the charro beans are very take-it-or-leave-it).

    Later, I found myself booking a nighttime table at Indika. It was my first stop at the lower Westheimer modern Indian hotspot in over a year — and it was worth the wait. As opposed to the borderline hostile vibes I received from waiters at The Grove and Catalan, my party was warmly greeted with an amuse bouche and taste of an Indian scotch.

    A first course of mulligatawny soup featured a green broth with asparagus and sizable shrimp — a dish I could easily recommend. A tasting of Chaat (Indika's rendition of street food) was also pleasing with its mélange of south Asian morsels.

    The star entrée on Indika's restaurant week menu is patra fish — local grouper marinated in a green masala and steamed in banana leaves. The steaming process lent the fish a moistness that all but disappears when a filet is grilled. The accompanying semolina purée and sautéed okra bring to mind a healthier version of Southern cheesy grits and fried okra.

    The second entrée also delighted — an oven roasted heirloom eggplant stuffed with paneer and cashews, bathed in green masala sauce and also accompanied with okra. This may be the vegetarian option, but it's not exactly light fare. The paneer and nuts give the dish a meatiness that left me wishing that I had room to eat every last bite. Literally and figuratively, the eggplant is a multi-layered experience that will remain forever in my restaurant week memory.

    The evening at Indika was also brought my first encounter with kulfi, India's answer to ice cream. The menu's mango kulfi is artfully sliced in circular disks — it has the richness of ice cream but refreshing, icy texture of sorbet. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the chocolate bread pudding with cardamom crème anglaise — Indika's answer to Western dessert decadence. The brick of luscious bread is the perfect reward as Houston Restaurant Week rambles on through Labor Day.

    Happy dining,

    Steven

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    COMING ATTRACTIONS

    San Antonio coffee shop brews up plans for third Houston café

    Brandon Watson
    Jun 12, 2026 | 3:04 pm
    Merit Coffee Co.
    Merit Coffee Co./ Facebook
    Merit Coffee Co. will open three Houston locations by the end of 2026.

    San Antonio’s acclaimed Merit Coffee is continuing its Houston expansion. After taking over a former Starbucks at 5115 Buffalo Speedway in July, the Texas chain will open two more Bayou City coffee shops in winter 2026.

    One of those two cafés, in the historic Swift Building in the Heights, was previously announced, but the chain has newly revealed that it will also debut a third shop at Greenside in Memorial City. Both are being developed by Houston’s Radom Capitol.

    Founded in 2009 as Local Coffee, the chain now has 14 locations in Austin, Dallas, and its San Antonio home base. The business has earned accolades in all of its markets, including a 2025 CultureMap Dallas Tastemaker Award for Best Coffee Shop.

    Merit’s beans, sourced from growers in Central/South America and Africa and roasted locally, might already be familiar to Houstonians who shop at H-E-B, Central Market, or Whole Foods Market. But soon the city’s coffee lovers will have access to an in-person Merit Coffee experience.

    "For years, we've dreamed about bringing Merit to Houston," said Bill Ellis, CEO of Merit Coffee, in a release. "Houston has one of the most exciting food and beverage cultures anywhere in the country, and we've been intentional about finding the right neighborhoods, partners, and opportunities to establish roots here."

    Merit takes pride in making sure each physical location reflects its neighborhood. The website includes line drawings of each café, which range from a 1900 stone house in Austin to a sleek glass storefront in Dallas.

    The menus are largely the same at each outpost. In addition to all the classic espresso drinks, Merit also serves matcha, hōjicha tea, refreshers, and playful creations like a latte made with raspberry purée and almond ricotta cold foam.

    Each city’s shops also partner with locally owned bakeries. All upcoming Houston locations will feature sweet and savory pastries from Houston’s Cake & Bacon.

    "Cake & Bacon embodies everything we love about Houston's culinary scene, and we're excited to showcase their incredible work,” said Ellis.

    Merit Coffee has not revealed the exact opening dates for any of its Houston locations. More details will be announced via social media later in the summer.

    houstoncoffeechainsopeningsnews-you-can-eatmemorial-city
    news/restaurants-bars

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