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    Sauce Up A Great Meal

    Eating naked isn't all it's cracked up to be: How to really sauce up a great meal

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Jul 14, 2014 | 9:14 am

    To sauce or not to sauce?

    A really good quality steak, properly cooked, should stand by itself. A nice Akaushi or Black Angus filet mignon really needs nothing more than a little ground black pepper and a pinch of sea salt. Get a nice char on the grill and finish it in the oven with a pat of butter melted on top and you’re good to go.

    But sometimes you might like to try a little sauce (no, not A1 sauce, or anything store bought). You can really make almost any kind of sauce for a steak, from cheese to booze, right at home. There used to be a cafe in Alamo Heights in San Antonio that served an appetizer of tenderloin chunks topped with chili con queso that was delectable. Although I have yet to find that on any other menu I do occasionally make it at home, because cheese and steak pair rather well together.

    Sometimes a naked steak is just fine, but sometimes it’s fun to make a topping for a great cut of beef .

    For a less Mex cheesy steak, try a sauce of blue cheese. It’s easy enough to crumble some blue cheese into a small saucepan, warm over a medium heat and add garlic or onions, milk and/or butter, maybe a splash of hot sauce and stir for a couple of minutes. Then pour over your steak for a cheesy meaty delight.

    And Smith & Wollensky has a trio of tenderloins with different toppings one of which is a Gorgonzola crust that is wonderful. I have yet to try to recreate this at home but it looks pretty simple.

    Not a cheese fan? You can also make a French cognac cream sauce that goes well atop steaks. It’s a simple sauce made with cognac, crème fraîche, beef stock and black pepper. Or if you’re feeling really French, go with a Béarnaise sauce. Here’s a good recipe from the Food Network’s Ina Garten.

    And while you might think of horseradish sauce as something for the prime rib roast on the Sunday brunch carvery table, it’s actually quite good on any type of steak, even a nice filet mignon. And, according to Web MD, horseradish roots have medicinal benefits as well.

    Saucy Secrets

    One of my favorite cookbooks, The Gourmet Cookbook Volume 1 (I love old cookbooks and this two volume set is one of the best) from 1950, has a lovely recipe for this sauce based on a basic béchamel sauce, one of the mother sauces of France. There’s a pretty easy recipe here by William Sonoma.

    So The Gourmet Cookbook horseradish cream sauce recipe is simple: To one cup béchamel sauce add one tablespoon of well-drained prepared horseradish and a tiny dash of mustard. Serve with corned beef, boiled beef or boiled lamb. (Or a filet mignon.)

    I usually wimp out and buy a jar of horseradish but you can also grate fresh horseradish root (about 1/4 cup). And if you don’t want to make béchamel sauce from scratch you can make do with a sauce of horseradish, sour cream, a dash of white wine, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard and white wine vinegar and salt and pepper to taste.

    So sometimes a naked steak is just fine, but sometimes it’s fun to make a topping for a great cut of beef.

    Don't just pour tired A1 sauce on your steaks.

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    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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