everybody loves chris

Houston superstar chef Chris Shepherd stunned by best-in-world ranking

The Robb Report loves Chris Shepherd.

Photo by Julie Soefer

Chris Shepherd has received his fair share of accolades since he opened Underbelly in 2012, including a Food & Wine Best New Chef award in 2013 and, of course, being the first Houston chef in 22 years to win the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014.

Still, learning that the Robb Report just named him best chef in its annual 31st annual Best of the Best Awards has him feeling humbled. The list takes a global approach — the dish of the year is from Noma in Copenhagen, the best bakery is in Tokyo, and the best “cultural fusion” restaurant is in Mexico City — which suggests that the magazine considers Shepherd the best chef in the world.

“I still haven’t comprehended it,” Shepherd says. “That’s kind of what it says. I don’t know how to feel about that. It’s a little weird.”

Well, chef, do you think you’re the best chef in the world?

“Everybody’s opinion is their own. Everyday we strive to be better,” he says. “That’s all we can do. Would I say I’m the same as Rene Redzepi? No, don’t put that on me. Do I think my team and I strive to be better everyday? Yeah. Do we strive to show Houston the way we want to be? Yeah.”

Ideally, the accolades prompt the magazine’s audience of globe-trotting high rollers to hop on their G5s and head to H-town. That’s Shepherd’s hope.

“That’s the goal. Come see our city,” he says. “Not just me. Go eat at Squable. Go eat at Coltivare. Go eat at any one of these places.”

While we had Shepherd on the phone, we couldn’t resist asking him about the future of One Fifth. Its current Mediterranean iteration is scheduled to shutter on July 31, but the concept has been both a commercial and creative success. Letting it become a different concept seems like a missed opportunity, but the chef remains committed to the experiment for one simple reason.

“I do love [One Fifth Mediterranean], but I don’t love that building. There’s a lot of inherent problems with that building. Do I want to take it someplace else? That’s probably what I should do.

“I’m really glad I only have a five-year lease. It’s a beautiful building, but the back side of it is hard. I’ve replaced every heater and A/C unit in the place.”

Stay tuned. Sounds like OFM could follow the same path as One Fifth Steak, which evolved into Georgia James. For now, count on those Robb Report readers to keep flocking to the steakhouse for its signature Baller Boards. After all, they can afford it.

chefs awards

What's Eric Eating Episodes 518 and 519

Meet the men behind River Oaks' new destination for bowls and broth

Photo by Becca Wright

Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Honest Mary’s founder Nelson Monteith and COO Andrew Wiseheart joined CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss the Austin-based restaurant that just opened its first Houston location in the River Oaks Shopping Center (2047-A West Gray St).

Monteith shares that he started the restaurant in 2017 in order to fulfill his vision of a restaurant which could serve food that’s fast, fresh, and affordable. A trained chef who operated pioneering Austin restaurant Contigo, Wiseheart joined the group to bring both culinary expertise and operational acumen to the grouping company.

Part of what sets Honest Mary’s apart is that diners can add cooked vegetables to the rice and proteins at the heart of every bowl. The “Market Sides” section includes an array of roasted vegetables — including sweet potatoes, cauliflower, broccoli, beets, and Brussels sprouts — as well as black beans, maple-glazed carrots, and green lentils. Bowls can be further enhanced with toppings such as Texas pecans, crispy chickpeas, goat cheese, avocado, and apples as well as sauces such as creamy poblano, cashew lime crema, sesame vinaigrette, spicy peanut, chimichurri and apple cider vinaigrette

Monteith explains that looking at the ingredients on display usually inspires him when he’s deciding what to eat at Honest Mary’s.

“I will almost always look at the line and see what looks fresh and good,” Monteith says. “Today, I got the salted kale with white rice. Then, I got garlic-pepper steak. I added on lentils — they’re my go-to in the winter. They blend everything together, and I love it Then Brussels sprouts looked green. I got some jalapenos. Avocados, cause that’s healthy. Then I got the chimichurri sauce.”

Honest Mary’s is also known for its hearty broths, a classic chicken and a vegetarian option made with seaweed and mushroom. Sandler raves about the chicken broth to Wiseheart, who shares how it’s made.

“We spent six or seven months testing recipes and drinking it ourselves to see if it’s a good idea,” Wiseheart says. “I talk about it as a great complement to the menu. It’s healthy. It’s really simple. Most of the kitchens I came up with were rooted in French cuisine. This is just chicken stock with salt in it.”

Listen to the full episode to hear more about Honest Mary’s plans for additional locations in Houston and Dallas. Then Monteith asks a Sandler a few questions about the Houston dining scene.

In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Home Slice Pizza opening a new location in the Heights; the closures of Brett’s BBQ Shop in Katy and Killen’s Barbecue in The Woodlands; and Esquire including ChòpnBlok on its list of America’s best new restaurants.

In the restaurant of the week segment, the two friends discuss their recent meal at Hypsi, the Italian restaurant in the newly-opened Hotel Daphne. Listen to the episode to hear their favorite dishes and other thoughts on the meal.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

Photo by Becca Wright

Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

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