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    Major Chef Win

    Milestone victory: Houston chef finally wins James Beard Award, ending the city's long drought

    Eric Sandler
    May 5, 2014 | 10:24 pm

    Underbelly chef/owner Chris Shepherd ended Houston's James Beard Foundation Award drought by winning the title of Best Chef Southwest Monday night. Shepherd is the first Houston chef to win an award at the ceremony known as the "Oscars of Food" since RDG + Bar Annie chef/owner Robert Del Grande took home the prize in 1992.

    Shepherd had also been nominated last year. Two other Houston chefs, Oxheart's Justin Yu and Hugo Ortega of Hugo's/Caracol/Backstreet Cafe, were also finalists, along with Bryce Gilmore from Austin's Barley Swine and Kevin Binkley of Binkley's Restaurant near Phoenix.

    Shepherd accepted the award with Clumsy Butcher business partners Bobby Heugel and Michael Burnett and Underbelly sous chef Lyle Bento. "I’d like to thank the city of Houston for letting me be a part of it and showing our vision of the city through our food," Shepherd said on stage in New York City.

    "I’d like to thank the city of Houston for letting me be a part of it and showing our vision of the city through our food."

    Prior to taking home the James Beard Award, Shepherd has already won been recognized for his work with a Food + Wine Best New Chef award in 2013. He's been on a bit of a media tour lately, winning the Waffle House Challenge at the Charleston Food & Wine Festival and competing on an episode of Knife Fight on the Esquire Network. No doubt, those efforts helped raise his profile nationally and aided the milestone win.

    Del Grande also attended the event, where he served a smoked brisket terrine to attendees.

    Chronicle critic Alison Cook lost the Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award to GQ's Alan Richmond at a ceremony on Friday, leading Cook to quip on Twitter that she's the Susan Lucci of that award.

    Regardless of whether Cook takes home the award in the future, a Houston chef has finally kicked the James Beard Award door in. Now the question is, can the city go back to back next year?

    After all, Ortega and Yu both made it to the finals this year. They'll certainly have a shot, particularly Ortega, as the national press discovers how fantastic Caracol is.

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    Photo by © Julie Soefer
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    New and Noteworthy

    California-inspired Houston restaurant makes Infatuation's best new list

    Brianna Caleri
    Nov 10, 2026 | 3:00 pm
    Zaranda restaurant fish
    Photo by Paula Murphy
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    Three new Texas restaurants have charmed restaurant review platform The Infatuation and ended up on its Best New Restaurants of 2026 list. Houston's Zaranda is among the 25 selected across the United States.

    In addition to Zaranda, Olōyō in Dallas and Roya in Austin made the list. The Infatuation has a presence in each of those cities plus more across Texas, so it's able to cross reference the list against its regular local content. The platform specializes in themed lists and also posts reviews of single businesses to add context for readers.

    The Infatuation team ate at more than 2,600 new restaurants in 2026, the introduction to the list explains. It doesn't list criteria or points for consideration, except that there was much debate over favorites and they would "recommend them to pretty much anyone."

    The expandable list lays out some key notes like price, cuisine, neighborhood, a tagline, dish recommendations, and other unique highlights. Users can then click through to see a longform review with a numerical rating.

    Zaranda is the latest project from James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega and his wife, Tracy Vaught, who opened it in October 2025. Named for the wire basket is uses to prepare select seafood dishes, Zaranda takes inspiration from an alternate history in which California remained united across the U.S.-Mexico border.

    Like Zaranda itself, reviewer Brooke Viggiano mostly kept the focus on the fish, breaking down the different ways to eat it: with tortillas, salsas, and really "whatever you throw at it." She also broadened her scope to recommend the ribeye with bone marrow butter.

    True to the Best New Restaurants list intro, Viggiano basically recommended Zaranda to everyone, including diners celebrating special occasions, going on a date, and having a casual meal. "It’s also great for impressing out-of-towners who want the full Houston picture in one meal," Viggiano writes.

    Zaranda is no stranger to the national spotlight. Texas Monthly named it one of the state's best new restaurants for 2026, and Robb Report included it as the only Texas representative on its 2026 best new restaurants list.

    Roya was a pop-up first, serving beautiful Persian food for holidays and special events. It was so popular, it was only a matter of time before chef Amir Hajimaleki opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in February, and it's just as ornate as the food.

    Since then, it's become one of Austin's buzziest restaurants, which is just confirmed again by its 8.5 rating from The Infatuation. The review names the bademjan (whipped eggplant) Austin's best dip and touts the beautiful dining space.

    "It's the kind of abundance that feels more like being welcomed into a family celebration than a North Shoal Creek restaurant with ornate chandeliers and a dining room that seems permanently set to golden-hour lighting," reviewer Nicolai McCrary wrote.

    Olōyō received the highest rating of the three Texas restaurants, though the others weren't far off. At a 9.3, it should be well worth the price, which falls in the highest possible category. Like Roya, the Mexican Olōyō was also a pop-up first. It opened in May after nearly a year of waiting.

    Olōyō's fixation on heirloom masa had its intended effect on reviewer Kevin Gray, who wrote, "Olōyō will give you a new appreciation for corn." Gray recommended a number of dishes, including the barbacoa huarache and any mole on the menu.

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