There are only about 50 Relais & Chateau-approved properties in America, among them some of the biggest names in dining, including The French Laundry, Per Se and Jean Georges.
So it's about time The New York Times discovered one of two R&C designated hotels and restaurants in Texas, The Inn at Dos Brisas. (The second is the Hotel St. Germain in Dallas.) Situated in the middle of the Texas countryside about an hour and a half from Houston, Dos Brisas is famous locally for its exemplary service and, more recently, the focus on "seed-to-table" cuisine.
The Gray Lady gives Dos Brisas a mostly positive review in its travel section, noting the 10-acre organic farm on the property, sommelier-trained servers and new executive chef Craig Shelton, who joined the Inn in November. Shelton has a James Beard Award to his name, earned at his Ryland Inn in 1991.
Despite some tongue-in-cheek knocks on Texas (describing typical Texas food as "smothered in gravy" and comparing the decor at The Inn at Dos Brisas to a suburban country club) and some bad directions (the restaurant is located northwest of Houston; the newspaper says east,) it's never bad to see a publication with national scope come to Texas and leave impressed.