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    NYT overlooks Houston's power

    Banh mi, oh my! The top five Vietnamese sandwich shops in Houston

    Ruthie Miller
    Feb 26, 2011 | 8:49 pm
    • In my opinion, Nguyen Ngo on Bellaire in Chinatown makes the best banh mi intown.
      Photo by Ruthie Johnson Miller
    • Can’t make it out to Chinatown? There are a few tasty options in town, too.
      Photo by Hugh Hargrave/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • The Alpha Bakery has long been a favorite for banh mis.
      Photo by Ruthie Johnson Miller

    Banh mi sandwiches have been enjoying their 15 minutes of fame as of late, thanks to a recent New York Times article, that brought plenty of lukewarm receptions and rants in response.

    And shame, shame, shame! The NYT author neglects to include Houston on his list of select cities offering great banh mis around the country, despite our town’s substantial Vietnamese population. But that’s OK — I’m happy to overlook his oversight. After all, it gives me the chance to create a list of my own. While relishing the fact that Houston brings so much food to love that outside critics largely aren't even aware of.

    Here are our five favorite spots for those famously delicious Vietnamese sandwiches in Houston. Each place serves fantastically fresh sandwiches, piled high with lovely meats, pickled veggies, cilantro, and other toppings, all for around $3 each. But don’t take my word for it — Try them out for yourself and report back!

    What’s your favorite banh mi in town?

    1) Nguyen Ngo
    In my sometimes-humble opinion, this small café on Bellaire in Chinatown makes the best banh mi in town. The bread is soft, yet substantial, and the bright toppings are fresh. But the crowning glory is the fabulous pate. It’s meaty and smooth, with a rich flavor that takes the sandwich from simple to simply spectacular.

    2) Alpha Bakery
    Located in Hong King Mall, the Alpha Bakery has long been a favorite for banh mis, thanks to the pillowy French bread. If it's crowded, you have to elbow your way through to order your banh mi and pay. They run an efficient business, so don't expect smiley service — but the resulting sandwich is worth the fight. Alpha also has great prepackaged items like spring rolls, stir fries, and fried sweet bean sesame balls.

    3) Don Café
    It may sound odd, but the Vietnamese-style butter’d mayo here is the big draw at Don Cafe, and the fine folks there include plenty of it on the sandwiches. You’ll never complain about getting short-changed on meat either; they’ve got beautiful French bread that walks the line between airy and crisp, and it’s filled with a plenty of gorgeous meats and toppings. Cash only.

    4) Givral’s Café
    Can’t make it out to Chinatown? There are a few tasty options in town, too. Givral’s Café on Milam cranks out sandwich after sandwich during the lunch rush and beyond. They lightly toast the French bread, and then pack it with well cooked meats, spreads, and brightly-colored veggies. I love the standard Special and Grilled Pork sandwiches, but the tofu banh mi is fantastic as well.

    5) Thien An
    With its close proximity to our business district, Thien An gets c-c-c-crowded at the weekday lunch hour. For a solid banh mi, try the Special, a baguette spread with pate, then stuffed with chicken, pork sausage, meatballs and ham — and dressed with the usual combo of toppings.

    Eh, the banh mis have slipped a bit over the years, but they also offer plenty of other Vietnamese dishes from which to choose.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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