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    What's Eric Eating Episode 224

    Behind the scenes at a Houston-area culinary ranch, plus CityCentre's hottest new restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 13, 2022 | 12:14 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Ryan Cade and Blake Robertson join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss R-C Ranch. Founded 10 years ago, the duo operate a 2,800-acre farm in Brazoria County and recently opened a butcher shop in the Houston Farmers Market.

    The conversation touches on a range of topics, including the owners' decision to partner on the business, why they selected wagyu beef, and what it's been like to open their first dedicated retail outpost. Sandler asks about Cade about R-C's relationship with Chris Shepherd; the Beard Award winner uses its beef at Georgia James and the newly-opened Underbelly Burger.

    I remember the first time I met him. I was trying to figure out what he and I had in common. I'm a country guy from Brazoria County and a rancher. Don't know a lot about the restaurant business. He's potentially the biggest name, certainly in Houston, maybe in Texas. I didn't know what I was getting into when I met him. If you ask me today, I'll tell you I love that guy. Not only is he a great chef and a successful person, he's as genuine of an individual as you'll ever meet. I'd run through a brick wall for him.

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Felice Sloan discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: chef Sherman Yeung's plans to open Money Cat, a new sushi restaurant in Upper Kirby; the imminent return of Austin's Chi'Lantro BBQ to Houston; the temporary closure of Backstreet Cafe; and Kenny & Ziggy's plans to move to a new location.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, the hosts discuss their recent meal at Daily Gather, the new restaurant in CityCentre from the owners of Dish Society. They also share first impressions of Mastro's Ocean Club, the luxurious steakhouse that recently opened in The Woodlands.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    R-C Ranch owners Ryan Cade and Blake Robertson are this week's guests.

    R-C Ranch butcher shop Ryan Cade Blake Robertson
    Photo by Jody Horton
    R-C Ranch owners Ryan Cade and Blake Robertson are this week's guests.
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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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