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    Houston's Best Chefs Unplugged

    Inside the minds of Houston's best chefs: Top burger guru, dessert queen & more share their reading habits

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Jan 24, 2015 | 1:27 pm

    I have always been an avid reader, a lover of books. There was a time I went to the city library every week, checking out four or five books: Biographies, cookbooks, food writing annals and lots and lots of mysteries.

    But I finally went digital. Because I have come to the point where I read everywhere, almost all the time, my back finally complained about schlepping around pounds of hardcover books wherever I went. So now I have an entire library on my Kindle and God forbid I forget to put that in my bag, I have the Kindle app on my iPhone. I can read anywhere!

    Last week I read five Clive Cussler adventures. They’re like popcorn, pulp fiction fun that you can devour endlessly.

    So I started to wonder if chefs read. Do they have time? Do they like to read? Do they read mostly for work?

    Some really don’t have time. Chef Austin Simmons of Hubbell & Hudson Bistro stays too busy to read very much.

    Justin Turner, he of the best burgers in town, sticks with food reads.

    “It’s hard for me to find time to read books or novels as I stay pretty busy at the restaurant,” he says. “When I do have time, I spend it fishing. So you will definitely find me reading all types of fishing magazines. I love catching up on the latest trends!”

    Chef Ben McPherson of Prohibition reads mostly work related stuff.

    “I am a cookbook collector,” McPherson says. “I have over 1,000 cookbooks. Some are heirlooms from my great grandparents and I even have the first food encyclopedia that was published in 1878. I also love to read what other chefs are doing, so I am constantly up to date with what is being released right now.”

    Vanessa O’Donnell, owner/chef of Ooh La La Dessert Boutique also reads cookbooks and food magazines but she loves the classics as well. And some other stuff.

    “My all-time favorite books are Pride and Prejudice and Anne of Green Gables,” she says. “But right now I am reading Yes Please by Amy Poehler.” Fun!

    Justin Turner, he of the best burgers in town, sticks with food reads.

    “I read chef biographies and cookbooks,” the Bernie’s Burger Bus guy says. “Life, on the Line by Grant Achatz was the last biography I read. My favorite was The Soul of a Chef by Michael Ruhlman. I’m reading Anthony Bourdain’s Medium Raw now. I love the Momofuku Cookbook and my favorite cookbook by far is The French Laundry.”

    Scholarly Chefs

    Albert Vasquez, head chef of Dish Society has some more eclectic literary tastes.

    “I draw and write comics called Fatal Coast during my down time, so a good portion of my time dedicated to literature is spent reading comics and graphic novels,” he says. “My all-time favorite comic is by an author/artist David Lapham. The comic is called Stray Bullets and takes place between the late '70s and early '80s.”

    "In summary it is a melange of fiction and history that keeps me inspired. It helps me stay focused on the future and being creative.”

    But that’s not all.

    Vasquez adds: “It is not often that poetry can catch my interest whole heartedly, but the works of Carl Sandburg helped paint a clearer picture of American history than any photograph ever could. J.D. Salinger’s work that was recently released has had me very entertained. Learning more about some of his previous characters has been more than fulfilling.

    "I always look forward to Lapham’s Quarterly. The subjects and areas of focus that are chosen are always intriguing and informative. In summary it is a melange of fiction and history that keeps me inspired. It helps me stay focused on the future and being creative.”

    OK, now I feel like an underachiever.

    John Sheely of Mockingbird Bistro lists his favorites as Blessing of a Skinned Knee by Wendy Mogel, Kingdom of Fear by Hunter Thompson, Selected Letters of Norman Mailer, Desert Queen: The Extraordinary Life of Gertrude Bell (a great read!) by Janet Wallach, Atlas Shrugged and the new Mick Jagger by Philip Norman.

    Chef/owner Paul Friedman of Peli Peli (soon to open another location in the old Gigi’s spot in the Galleria) reads the Bible, cookbooks and self help books. But he also enjoys a good mystery. His favorite is Agatha Christie.

    What? No Cussler fans in the kitchen? Oh well. I prefer that they cook well rather than share my reading tastes.

    Vanessa O’Donnell, owner chef of Ooh La La Dessert Boutique, reads cookbooks and food magazines, but she also loves the classics.

    Vanessa O'Donnel Ooh La La horizontal
    Photo by Kimberly Park
    Vanessa O’Donnell, owner chef of Ooh La La Dessert Boutique, reads cookbooks and food magazines, but she also loves the classics.
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    What's eric eating episodes 513 and 514

    Beard Award-winning chef and family dish on their new Houston restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 21, 2025 | 1:43 pm
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, his wife and business partner Tracy Vaught, and their daughter Sophia Ortega join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss H-Town Restaurant Group. The company operates a number of local concepts, including interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, Backstreet Cafe, Mexican street food eatery Urbe, and Zaranda, the company’s newly opened restaurant in downtown that’s inspired by California.



    After a brief discussion of the early days of Hugo’s, the trio dives into the process of opening Zaranda. Vaught explains how she became aware of the space in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower and why it’s proximity to Discovery Green made it particularly appealing. Chef Ortega shares how a three-week road trip throughout Mexico provided some of the inspiration for both Zaranda and Caracol, his Galleria-area seafood restaurant.

    From there, chef Ortega describes how the zaranda — a wire metal basket used to cook seafood over an open flame — anchors much of the menu. He also recommends some dishes diners should try when they visit Zaranda.

    Sandler asks Sophia Ortega what it’s like working with her parents. “I get that comment a lot. It is very different. A lot of people can’t imagine working with family,” she says.

    “For me, I’m an only child. We’re a very close family unit. The restaurants have been a huge part of my growing up. For us, it comes very naturally to work together. It’s all we know. I’ve only ever worked for my restaurants. A lot of the employees have seen me grow up. I think we all have our own lane, but at the same time we overlap. We’re always open to hearing different opinions. That’s when the best decisions are made. I love it.”

    “Sophia is very intuitive. The way she communicates is very thoughtful and sensitive. I think that’s so valuable for our staff. Everybody loves her,” Vaught adds.



    Listen to the full episode for an update on Backstreet Cafe. Its original building was torn down last year to make way for an all-new structure that’s on track to open next year — hopefully in time for its legendary Mother’s Day brunch. Sandler also asks about the restaurant group’s conspicuous omission from the Michelin Guide.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson, the proprietor of newly-open wine shop Montrose Grocer, discuss the news out of the week. They begin with a discussion about the Houston Chronicle’s list of the city’s top 100 restaurants, including a discussion of Aga’s as the No.1 selection, some of the new entries on the list, and restaurants that dropped off the list entirely, such as Himalaya, Kata Robata, and Killen’s Barbecue. They also talk about Bari Ristorante opening a new location in The Woodlands and restaurateur Brian Doke’s plans to open Lazy Lane restaurant in Garden Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Maison Chinoise. Located next to Brasserie 19 in the River Oaks Shopping center, the new Chinese restaurant is the latest project from Dallas-based Lombardi Family Concepts, known locally for Toulouse Cafe and Bar, its French restaurant in River Oaks District, and Lombardi Cucina Italiana in Uptown Park.

    Listen to the episode to hear which dishes they liked best, as well as the one that missed the mark. They also discuss its decor and how it will fit with the other luxurious restaurants in the shopping center.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

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