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    California love

    Beard Award-winning Houston chef is California dreaming at new restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 17, 2025 | 8:42 am

    Hugo Ortega wants to take Houston to California. When the James Beard Award-winning chef, along with his wife and business partner, Tracy Vaught, opens Zaranda this Saturday, October 18 in downtown Houston’s Norton Rose Fulbright Tower, they’ll reveal their first new project since their street food concept Urbe debuted in 2021.

    Named for for the wire basket used to cook seafood over an open flame, Zaranda imagines a world in which all of California — both the state of California (or “Alta California” prior to the Mexican American War) in America and Baja California in Mexico — remained united as one territory. It joins the other restaurants in Ortega and Vaught’s H-Town Restaurant Group: interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, seafood restaurant Caracol, Oaxacan restaurant Xochi, street food restaurant Urbe, and Backstreet Cafe, the River Oaks staple that’s currently being rebuilt. Considered one of the chefs most responsible for introducing fine Mexican cuisine to Houstonians, Ortega won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2017.

    Zaranda’s menu features ingredients such as Baja seafood, the state’s legendary produce, and wines from both regions. It also showcases the immigrants who have influenced the region, including Spanish, Chinese, and Japanese elements.

    “Why not look to Alta California for its agricultural bounty and ranching heritage and to Baja California for its abundant aquatic life and diverse landscape for inspiration,” Ortega said in a statement. “I wanted to reimagine the region as one vast, natural expanse, without consideration of borders.”

    Zaranda restaurant fish Pescado Zarandeado is cooked in a wire basket and served with cucumber salad and tortillas.Photo by Paula Murphy

    Zaranda restaurant interior

    Photo by Paula Murphy

    Zaranda opens this Saturday, October 18.

    Indeed, the menu begins with a section called Zarandeado that showcases the wire basket that is the restaurant’s namesake. Diners may choose from fish, lobster, octopus, or shrimp, all of which are served with a cucumber salad, flour tortillas, adobo, and three salsas.

    Seafood is also featured in sections devoted to shareable starters (conchas), crudos, tacos, and tostadas. For example, roasted oysters are served with a gochujang butter — a variation on the chipotle butter served at Caracol — and tuna crudo showcases its Japanese influence by including soy, sesame, and furikake. The four tostadas are made with smoked fish and scallop escabeche, hamachi, lobster, or tuna.

    Spanish-style rice dishes get their own section, with three choices — confit duck and braised rabbit; a seafood take with clams, mussels, shrimp, chorizo, and saffron; or a vegetarian dish made with artichokes, mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, carrots, and more. An olive bread that’s served with herb butter and olive oil also showcases Spanish flavors.

    Carnivores can look to the Del Rancho section that includes a braised lamb shank, picanha, filet mignon, ribeye, or porterhouse. Pair them with vegetables such as roasted cabbage with miso butter, roasted carrots, fried Brussels sprouts, or one of three potato preparations — fries, mashed, or roasted.

    Pastry chef Ruben Ortega, Hugo’s brother, has made his own contributions to the menu with a couple of eye-catching creations that are sure to show up on social media. The Erizo del Mar is a chocolate dish shaped like a sea urchin that’s served with lemon verbena cream, hibiscus, caramel, passion fruit sponge, and more. Similarly, the Dólar de Arena is made with coconut mousse, almond praline, and candied nori that’s topped with a white chocolate sand dollar. Other dishes include California ingredients such as dates and macadamia nuts.

    All that eating and drinking happens in a 7,000-square-foot space with seating for 180 inside and 50 on the patio. Created by Houston’s Gin Design Group (Haii Keii, ChòpnBlọk, etc.), the room features floor-to-ceiling windows that look out onto Discovery Green, a “desert- and sea-inspired color palette” of earthy browns and light blues, and a second-floor dining space called the Ballena Bar with room for 70.

    Zaranda restaurant chefs Chefs Paula Guiterrez, Hugo Ortega, and Adrian CaballeroPhoto by Nick de la Torre

    The Ortegas have pulled together a talented team from multiple H-Town Restaurant Group concepts to lead Zaranda. They include chefs Adrian Caballero and Paula Gutierrez, pastry chef Roxy Puga, sommelier Elvis Espinoza, and bartender Carlos Serrano.

    Initially, Zaranda will open for dinner with lunch service to follow. It will be open Monday through Saturday and is located at 1550 Lamar St.

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    something for everyone

    New brewery pours into Houston with craft beer, cocktails, and homebrew

    Ralph Palmer
    Apr 10, 2026 | 12:29 pm
    Farmboy Brewing Company
    Photo by Ralph Palmer
    Farmboy Brewing Company is now open on N. Shepherd.

    The tides of craft breweries in Houston and across the country have shifted dramatically over the past five years, marked by closures and a clear softening of the once unstoppable boom, with names like True Anomaly, Elder Son, and Buffalo Bayou Brewing serving as recent reminders of how quickly the landscape can change. What is emerging in its place is a new phase that is far less rigid about labels and more focused on flexibility and meeting customers where they actually are.

    For Landon Weiershausen, that evolution is not guesswork. It's the entire business plan.

    After more than a decade running Farmboy Brew Shop and working across nearly every space of the beer supply chain, (hops to kegs to fruit) Weiershausen has stepped back into ownership with a new brewery. Farmboy Brewing Company (4816 N Shepherd Dr.) blends a taproom, full cocktail bar, and homebrew retail shop into a single, community-driven space. The location will be familiar to many craft beer fans, as it previously housed both North Shepherd Brewing and Astral Brewing.

    “It’s about giving people what they actually want when they walk in the door,” Weiershausen tells CultureMap.

    Weiershausen’s roots in Houston’s beer world stretch back to 2014, when he opened Farmboy Brew Shop, a go-to spot for local Oak Forest/Garden Oaks homebrewers looking for ingredients, gear, and advice. With the launch of Farmboy Brewing, that business still exists, but it’s now integrated into the new brewery.

    The move creates something unique in the world of Houston beer — a space where hobbyists, beer nerds, and casual drinkers can intersect. In the 9,000-square-foot space, customers can shop for grains and yeast then walk a few steps over and grab a pint or a cocktail.

    “The majority of people coming in for homebrew are also interested in drinking,” Weiershausen says. “Now they don’t have to choose.”

    Instead of fighting changes in the beverage industry, Weiershausen is leaning into diversification. His brewery operates with a mixed beverage license, allowing for a full cocktail program alongside beer, wine, non-alcoholic options, and THC-infused drinks. That last category, while politically contentious in Texas, represents what he sees as an undeniable shift in consumer behavior. Currently, Weiershausen is stocking a few verities of THC-infused offerings from Eureka Heights Brew Co.

    “There’s a huge market for it,” he says. “Whether people like it or not, customers are choosing those products over traditional alcoholic beverages."

    Rather than drawing lines between beer drinkers and everyone else, the goal is to make the space work for large groups that have diverse drink preferences.

    “If someone doesn’t drink beer, or doesn’t drink alcohol at all, we still want them to have options.”

    Despite the brewery name on the door, Weiershausen isn’t rushing his own beer to market. Instead, the tap list currently leans on guest kegs from local and regional breweries such as Great Heights, Spindletap, Saint Arnold, and Lone Pint. This decision is a deliberate move that buys time while new brewing equipment is installed and optimized. It’s a patient approach that prioritizes long-term quality over a fast rollout and reflects lessons learned from years inside the industry. In the meantime, the guest taps double as a nod to relationships that Weiershausen has built over many years.

    “A lot of these are people who took care of me over the years,” he says. “This is a way to return the favor.”

    Once the brewing program is rolled out in the next few weeks, expect the first batch of offering to include a West Coast IPA, Hazy IPA, Light Lager, and an American Wheat. The program itself will also be led by head brewer Steven Treleaven, formerly of Conroe’s B-52 Brewing.

    Weiershausen’s vision prioritizes education. The homebrew shop has always served as an entry point for teaching its customers more about beer, but the expanded space opens the door to something he describes as an “education escalator.” Plans include monthly workshops covering everything from brewing basics to off-flavor detection (a critical skill for anyone serious about improving their homebrew).

    Like most breweries, the space will feature familiar weekly staples including trivia nights, but Weiershausen is also looking to mix in less predictable programming. Think dance classes, themed events, and rotating concepts that go beyond the usual bingo-and-beer formula.

    On the food side, Weiershausen has chosen not to build an in-house kitchen. Instead, the brewery will host food trucks, including the return of fan-favorite El Alabrije, known for its Oaxacan-inspired menu.

    At its core, the concept reflects something bigger than one brewery. It’s a response to a changing market, a shifting customer base, and a city that’s never fit neatly into one category anyway. For Weiershausen, the path forward isn’t about choosing between beer, cocktails, or anything else. It’s about building a place where all of it works together.

    “We’re just trying to create something for the community,” he says. “Whatever that means for them.”

    ----

    Ralph Palmer is a co-owner of the Deckle and Hyde barbecue pop-up and a longtime craft beer enthusiast. Follow him on Instagram at eyefearnobeer.

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