The Glass Wall

 When The Glass Wall opened in the Heights, it was dubbed a "surfer bistro". The Glass Wall is the title of Jim Freeman’s surfing cult classic. It’s also slang for a gigantic, perfectly formed wave. But interestingly enough, the menu has only a couple of seafood items. The rest weighs heavily on the meat side, with seasonal variation. The chicken fried steak inspires a letter home. It’s that good. The crust is light and crunchy. And the sour-cream gravy makes our mouth water. It's served with braised greens and tender purple-hulled beans instead of mashed potatoes, making for a rich and lusty symphony of flavors. His pork specials are usually right on target. We love the tenderloin version cooked perfectly medium and served on a bed of creamy grits. Like many of his dishes, it comes with there’s a surprising note or two. In this case, a vinegary corn salad lightens the composition. Next time, we’re going to ask for an extra barbecue rib and coleslaw slider that arrived with the tenderloin pork. The bar menu is fun, too. The slider with deviled egg and bacon hit the spot as did a juicy burger and fries.

When in doubt, go with the “highlighted” wines selected by co-owner Shepard Ross. He’s terrific. Some restaurants around town have swiped his list for ideas. Picking great wines isn’t easy.