What's in a name? It's a question diners might want to ask chef Robert Del Grande, who chose to celebrate his 35 years in Houston by reviving the Cafe Annie moniker for his Galleria-area restaurant — not that anyone will miss calling it "RDG + Bar Annie." The old-new name has also brought the return of some of the dishes that earned Del Grande a James Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest in 1992. Consider the rabbit enchiladas in a rich red mole sauce or the black bean terrine that pairs the creamy beans with a little salty tang from goat cheese as two examples of dishes that Del Grande developed in the '80s but still deliver flavors that will appeal to contemporary tastes. The signature coffee roasted filet is back, too, as a 22-ounce shared portion. At $120, it's definitely a splurge, but one that's worth considering for anyone who wants to taste what all the fuss was about — and why one of Houston's most celebrated chefs seems so reinvigorated today.