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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 396 and 397

    Chef Ronnie Killen is ready to reclaim his crown as Houston's meat king

    CultureMap Staff
    Aug 9, 2024 | 7:00 pm
    Killen's TMX Ronnie Killen head shot

    Ronnie Killen is this week's guest.

    Photo by Kimberly Park

    On this week’s episode of What’s Eric Eating, chef Ronnie Killen joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss his restaurant group. Killen has been a guest twice before — on the show’s second episode in 2017 and again in 2020 — so there’s quite a bit to catch up on.



    Speaking with his usual candor, Killen details some of the health issues he’s been dealing with over the last three years. After undergoing multiple surgeries, he’s finally on the road to a sustained recovery.

    Known for making Pearland a dining destination with his upscale steakhouse and being among the first Houston-area restaurants to serve craft barbecue, Killen acknowledges he may have fallen off the media radar a but, but he’s ready to get back in the spotlight.

    “People say the barbecue place isn’t what it used to be. We don’t have the lines anyone. I didn’t want the lines. I wanted it to be approachable, not where people drive by it and see a two hour line. Our local people who come on a more frequent basis can’t wait two hours in line,” he says.

    “When we first opened, we were a $3 million restaurant. Now we’re a $7 million restaurant. Would I throw away $4 million just to have a big line? No, I wouldn’t,” he adds.

    Listen to the full episode to hear the chef opine on a number of other topics, including potential changes to Killen’s, his comfort food restaurant near the Heights and his recent departure from NRG Stadium. Sandler also shares memories of his first meal at the original Killen’s Steakhouse in 2008.



    On this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include the sudden closure of Japanese restaurant Molihua after only three months; Jonathan’s the Rub’s plans to add a fourth location in Cypress; and Winfield’s Chocolate Bar opening a new location just west of the Galleria.

    For the restaurant of the week segment, they share first impressions of The Marigold Club, the French-influenced, English-inspired new restaurants from the owners of March and Rosie Cannonball. They discuss the restaurant’s eye-catching design and offer some opinions about their favorite dishes from chef Austin Waiter’s menu.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 10 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Ronnie Killen sets closing date for his Michelin-rated comfort food eatery

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 22, 2026 | 9:48 am
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, Ryan Hildenbrand
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, and Ryan Hildenbrand at the 2025 Texas Michelin Guide ceremony.

    Since the Michelin Guide’s arrival in Texas, it has been rare for any included restaurant to close, but Killen’s, chef Ronnie Killen’s Southern restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation, will serve its final meals on Sunday, July 19.

    Open since 2020 in the space previously occupied by Hickory Hollow, Killen’s serves a Southern-inspired menu based on chef Killen’s family recipes. That includes chicken fried steak and fried chicken, as well as Killen’s signature items such as barbecue and smoked pork belly bites. Last year, chef Killen recruited chef Ryan Hildebrand (formerly of Triniti) to elevate the menu and upgraded the restaurant with new furniture, dinnerware, and silverware.

    All of which is to say that chef Killen’s decision to sell the property for $3.5 million to a new owner — who plans to convert it into a gas station — comes as a bit of a surprise. As he tells CultureMap in an exclusive interview, a number of reasons played into the decision.

    Why Killen’s is closing

    First, the chef has been consolidating his operations over the past few years. Closing Killen’s follows the 2023 closure of Mexican-inspired Pearland restaurant Killen’s TMX; the 2024 shuttering of Killen’s STQ, his live fire steakhouse in Briargrove; and the 2025 closures of both of his restaurants in The Woodlands, Killen’s Steakhouse and Killen’s Barbecue.

    As Killen has discussed before, a number of injuries and surgeries have limited his mobility and caused him considerable pain. A couple months ago, he had another back procedure that’s left him unable to bend over to tie his shoes but has improved his overall health.

    “The chronic pain was so much worse than it was [before the surgery]. I’m not taking drugs everyday not to be in pain,” Killen says.

    In addition, the chef’s confidence in the restaurant’s location has also waned due to increased crime in the area. In one particularly bizarre incident, he spent $8,000 to remove graffiti by a mentally unstable woman who accused the restaurant of causing harm to her stuffed monkey.

    “When I first bought the place, I could walk to H-E-B and get stuff. I was never asked for money. or worried about getting held up,” he says. “Now, i get asked for money three different times on every corner. I think the area has gotten worse.”

    Finally, despite the Michelin recognition and new energy chef Hildebrand brought to the restaurant, it simply hasn’t performed as well financially as it needed to in order to stay open. The money he’ll make from selling the land is far more than the restaurant will earn, even over the next couple of years.

    “If the place were doing $10 million a year, I would have looked at the restaurant value instead of the land value,” Killen says.

    Ryan Hildebrand’s perspective

    Chef Hildebrand understands Killen’s business decision to cash out and move on. He went through a similar process at Triniti, his critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurant that closed in 2017. He’s committed to staying with the restaurant until it closes — at which point, he’ll be looking for a new job.

    “I’ve been an owner,” Hildebrand says. “I’ve owned the real estate. When someone makes you an offer and the restaurant isn’t doing what you wanted, you have a decision.”

    Ultimately, Hildebrand thinks the changes he made — including adding more seafood and other items to move the restaurant slightly upmarket — confused regular customers who just wanted the restaurant’s original dishes and heaping portions.

    “The challenge was to not shock the system too harshly. To hang onto the clientele that was existing and that was loyal. They were entrenched in barbecue,” Hildebrand says. “We had to maintain the identity and at the same time change things. We probably needed to rebrand the whole show. Shut it down. Change the name. Change the menu.”

    Still, he's proud of the work he did in the eight months he spent at the restaurant, and he's eager to take on his next challenge.

    "I definitely want to stay in Houston," he says. "We’re home. We’re much happier. The search starts now. You can announce it. I am wildly available."

    Closing Killen’s will leave Ronnie Killen with just five restaurants — three locations of Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland, Cypress, and Hobby Airport; Killen’s Burgers in Pearland; and Killen’s Steakhouse, which is currently closed for renovations that Ronnie Killen hopes will help it earn a Michelin star (more on that in the weeks to come).

    “It’s just business and timing,” Killen says. “Trust me, it’s very hard. That place means so much to me. It was built with recipes that my grandmother and my godmother made. It was the food I ate as a kid that made me want to become a chef.”

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