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    there will be chicken parm

    Rice Village restaurateur replaces French fare with new pasta palace

    Eric Sandler
    May 29, 2024 | 11:31 am

    Benjy Levit is switching things up in Rice Village. The veteran restaurateur behind Local Foods will close his French restaurant Eau Tour and convert it to a new Italian restaurant named Milton’s.

    Eau Tour will close after service this Sunday, June 2. After a series of renovations, Milton’s will open later this summer. While Milton’s is under construction, Lees Den, Levit’s Rice Village wine bar, will serve some of Eau Tour’s most popular dishes and serve as a testing ground for Milton’s.

    Once Milton’s has opened, Lees Den will temporarily close for renovations that will both better integrate it with Milton’s and transition it from a lounge-style environment devoted to wine into a speakeasy-style cocktail bar with an actual bar where patrons may sit. Bartender Máté Hartai, a veteran of Tongue-cut Sparrow and Refuge (among others), has been hired as the beverage director who will create the cocktails for both Milton’s and Lees Den. Wine director Chrisanna Shewbart will oversee the lists for both Milton’s and Lees Den.

    It may seem like an abrupt series of changes — Eau Tour has only been open since March 2023 — but Local Foods Group culinary director Seth Siegel-Gardner tells CultureMap the decision to convert Eau Tour into Milton’s reflects both customer demand and the group’s own creative impulses.

    “When we were looking at our sales month to month, we kept noticing this trend of, I think the guests want us to be an Italian restaurant,” Siegel-Gardner says. “It’s a food that we love. When Benjy and I were speaking about plans for the rest of the year, it just started coming up. What if we created this and brought the two spaces closer together?”

    Pastas will be at the heart of Milton’s menu. The restaurant, which will by led by chefs Kent Domas and Geoff Hundt, will extrude all of its own pastas and make all of its egg-based pastas by hand. Siegel-Gardner adds that the restaurant will source its eggs from Swift Hill Farms in Nacogdoches. “They’re some of the better eggs I’ve seen in a long time,” he says.

    Fans of Siegel-Gardner’s work at Provisions will be cheered to know at least one of its signature pastas will reemerge at Milton’s. “I got the okay from Terrence [Gallivan, the chef’s former business partner] to put the cresta da gallo with the mushrooms on there,” he says.

    In addition to making pastas for Milton’s, the program will allow Local Foods Market to sell pastas and sauces for both dine-in and to-go. Chefs at individual Local Foods locations will be able to work with Siegel-Gardner to develop specialty pastas dishes that they can run as specials.

    The restaurant will also utilize a wood-burning Josper grill and oven to cook steaks and seafood. Italian-American classics like chicken parmesan and meatball subs are also possibilities. Diners might even see a pizza or two.

    “It’s the food that I crave to eat, and food I love making as well think we noticed that trend with our team as well. We’ve got a really solid group of people who are all about that style of food. It seemed like an easy way for us to pivot,” Siegel-Gardner says.

    “We love going out to eat. We love restaurants. We wanted to transform this into a place that more people could love and enjoy.”

    Brittany Vaughan of Garnish Designs will create the new looks for both spaces. She’s been involved with Local Foods Group on a number of projects, including Eau Tour, newly opened Mexican concept Maximo Canteen, and the new Local Foods that opened near the Galleria.

    The group has some urgency to complete its work quickly. Local Foods Group will begin operating at Rice University’s Brochstein Pavilion on September 1. Details on what it will serve are still being finalized, but Rice faculty, students, and staff should expect some combination of Local Foods sandwiches and salads with a pasta or two from Milton’s.

    Milton's Kent Domas pasta making

    Photo by Carla Gomez

    Freshly made pasta will be at the heart of Milton's menu.

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    visiting popup bagels

    A highly opinionated take on Houston's venture-backed new bagel shop

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 18, 2026 | 5:10 pm
    PopUp Bagels
    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels
    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

    It’s hard to remember the last restaurant opening with as much fanfare as PopUp Bagels. Houstonians lined up in the heat for the bakery’s grand opening on Saturday, June 13.

    Shawn the Food Sheep included a glimpse of the line in his review below.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Shawn Singh (@shawnthefoodsheep)


    Eager to see what the fuss is all about, I stopped by around 10 am on Thursday, June 18. Thankfully, only about a dozen people stood in line ahead of me, and I had a bag of six bagels in less than 20 minutes.

    The frequency with which it boils and bakes it bagels sets PopUp Bagels apart from Houston’s traditional, mostly family-owned bagel shops. Instead of making large batches early in the morning that may get refreshed once or twice per day, PopUp Bagels is constantly boiling and baking smaller batches of a couple dozen bagels at a time throughout its operating hours. That's why customers will hear the cry of “hot bagels” echoing through the small, counter-service space every time more emerge from the oven.

    PopUp is different from traditional bagel shops in a couple of other important ways. First, the menu only list five varieties — plain, poppy, salt, sesame, and everything, which is topped with poppy seeds, salt, and sesame seeds. And, it only serves whole bagels — no slicing or toasting. The store’s motto of “grip, rip, and dip” explains how it expects customers to consume their bagels. Packaged lox are available, but diners have to assemble the sandwich themselves — either off-site or at one of the couple of cafe tables outside.

    PopUp Bagels also doesn’t sell individual bagels. Instead, diners must order a minimum of three bagels and a schmear — various cream cheese and butters are available — for $15. Six bagels and a schmear costs $24. A dozen bagels and two schmears is $46. As a point of comparison, the Bagel Shop Bakery in Bellaire charges $25 for 13 bagels and two, 8-ounce schmears.

    So, how is it?

    Fresh, hot bagels are inherently superior to hours-old bagels. That’s a real advantage for PopUp Bagels. On my visit, the fresh-from-the-oven plain bagels were so hot that they needed a couple of minutes before we could "grip and rip" them.

    As for the bagels themselves, they certainly look the part. The outside is deeply caramelized with an even distribution of toppings that adhere well to the exterior.

    But the biggest shortcoming is texture. Bagels, obviously, are supposed to be chewy, but all six of the bagels that an ex-pat New Yorker friend and I ordered walked the line between chewy and underbaked. That may be deliberate, as softer bagels are easier to “grip and rip.”

    It's also possible that the bakery’s new employees are still dialing in procedures, and that a different day would yield bagels with a crispier texture. Colloquially, friends who have also visited the shop — both in Houston and other cities — disagreed with my assessment of the texture.

    The plain is just that, with a very mild flavor. Both the scallion cream cheese and salted butter had a pleasantly creamy texture and boosted the dining experience.

    Overall, PopUp is competitive with Houston’s best bagels. That’s promising, since Stripes — the equity growth firm that bought PopUp Bagels in 2023 — has announced plans to open more than 300 locations nationwide.

    But you won’t see me driving half an hour or standing in a long line to get another taste. Houston’s locally-owned bagel shops are more convenient, less expensive, and just as good.

    PopUp Bagels

    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels

    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

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