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    there will be chicken parm

    Rice Village restaurateur replaces French fare with new pasta palace

    Eric Sandler
    May 29, 2024 | 11:31 am

    Benjy Levit is switching things up in Rice Village. The veteran restaurateur behind Local Foods will close his French restaurant Eau Tour and convert it to a new Italian restaurant named Milton’s.

    Eau Tour will close after service this Sunday, June 2. After a series of renovations, Milton’s will open later this summer. While Milton’s is under construction, Lees Den, Levit’s Rice Village wine bar, will serve some of Eau Tour’s most popular dishes and serve as a testing ground for Milton’s.

    Once Milton’s has opened, Lees Den will temporarily close for renovations that will both better integrate it with Milton’s and transition it from a lounge-style environment devoted to wine into a speakeasy-style cocktail bar with an actual bar where patrons may sit. Bartender Máté Hartai, a veteran of Tongue-cut Sparrow and Refuge (among others), has been hired as the beverage director who will create the cocktails for both Milton’s and Lees Den. Wine director Chrisanna Shewbart will oversee the lists for both Milton’s and Lees Den.

    It may seem like an abrupt series of changes — Eau Tour has only been open since March 2023 — but Local Foods Group culinary director Seth Siegel-Gardner tells CultureMap the decision to convert Eau Tour into Milton’s reflects both customer demand and the group’s own creative impulses.

    “When we were looking at our sales month to month, we kept noticing this trend of, I think the guests want us to be an Italian restaurant,” Siegel-Gardner says. “It’s a food that we love. When Benjy and I were speaking about plans for the rest of the year, it just started coming up. What if we created this and brought the two spaces closer together?”

    Pastas will be at the heart of Milton’s menu. The restaurant, which will by led by chefs Kent Domas and Geoff Hundt, will extrude all of its own pastas and make all of its egg-based pastas by hand. Siegel-Gardner adds that the restaurant will source its eggs from Swift Hill Farms in Nacogdoches. “They’re some of the better eggs I’ve seen in a long time,” he says.

    Fans of Siegel-Gardner’s work at Provisions will be cheered to know at least one of its signature pastas will reemerge at Milton’s. “I got the okay from Terrence [Gallivan, the chef’s former business partner] to put the cresta da gallo with the mushrooms on there,” he says.

    In addition to making pastas for Milton’s, the program will allow Local Foods Market to sell pastas and sauces for both dine-in and to-go. Chefs at individual Local Foods locations will be able to work with Siegel-Gardner to develop specialty pastas dishes that they can run as specials.

    The restaurant will also utilize a wood-burning Josper grill and oven to cook steaks and seafood. Italian-American classics like chicken parmesan and meatball subs are also possibilities. Diners might even see a pizza or two.

    “It’s the food that I crave to eat, and food I love making as well think we noticed that trend with our team as well. We’ve got a really solid group of people who are all about that style of food. It seemed like an easy way for us to pivot,” Siegel-Gardner says.

    “We love going out to eat. We love restaurants. We wanted to transform this into a place that more people could love and enjoy.”

    Brittany Vaughan of Garnish Designs will create the new looks for both spaces. She’s been involved with Local Foods Group on a number of projects, including Eau Tour, newly opened Mexican concept Maximo Canteen, and the new Local Foods that opened near the Galleria.

    The group has some urgency to complete its work quickly. Local Foods Group will begin operating at Rice University’s Brochstein Pavilion on September 1. Details on what it will serve are still being finalized, but Rice faculty, students, and staff should expect some combination of Local Foods sandwiches and salads with a pasta or two from Milton’s.

    Milton's Kent Domas pasta making

    Photo by Carla Gomez

    Freshly made pasta will be at the heart of Milton's menu.

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    What's Eric Eating Episode 584

    Beard Award-winning Latin chef dishes on big Houston move and menu overhaul

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 11, 2026 | 4:32 pm
    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez
    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair
    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Douglas Rodriguez and Bari Hospitality Group co-owner Pedro Teyuca join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Exilio Latin Flair, the company’s pan-Latin restaurant in Montrose.



    Opened in April in the former Verde Garden space, Exilio recently recruited Rodriguez to serve as executive chef and revamp its menu. Known as the “Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine,” the chef brings an impressive resume to his role, including winning Rising Star Chef in the 1996 James Beard Awards, competing on season one of Top Chef Masters, and earning a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide for Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham, NC. As he explains in the episode, he and Bari co-owner Tommy Nally first developed the idea for Exilio when they worked together in Vegas, so he jumped at the opportunity to bring the restaurant to life.

    Rodriguez just rolled out a new menu for Exilio that includes a total revamp of the restaurant’s ceviches and entrees. Specific dishes include tuna watermelon ceviche, mixto seafood ceviche with leche de tigre, Colombian-style chicken empanadas, snapper Veracruz, and a smoked ribeye.

    “The sauce is made with panca peppers (Peruvian red pepper), watermelon juice, yuzu juice. Then it’s slices of tuna and slices of watermelon. I kind of single them,” Rodriguez says about the tuna watermelon ceviche. “The sauce has red onion, Thai basil, tarragon, a herb you don’t usually find in a ceviche. It’s very light, refreshing, herbaceous — hits a lot of different areas in the palate for a simple, two ingredient dish.”

    The chef adds that he’s been getting to know Houston through its restaurants. He cites Mala Sichuan and Hugo’s as two places that have impressed him. He also hails Love Croissants, whose owner, chef Omar Pereney, worked for Rodriguez prior to moving to Houston.

    “I have a long list of places to explore, and I’m excited that this is a big food city,” Rodriguez adds. “I haven’t been to Maximo yet. That’s at the top of my list. I’m excited to be here and get people into the restaurant to try the food.”

    For his part, Teyuca provides an update on Bari’s plans to open a second location in The Woodlands later in September. He also shares exciting news about the company’s plans to add a sushi bar to the lounge above Georgia James, the Montrose steakhouse it purchased from Underbelly Hospitality in 2024.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez

    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair

    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

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