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    west u's new taqueria

    Local Foods owner maximizes tacos at newly-opened modern Mexican restaurant in West U

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 9, 2024 | 10:22 am

    The wait is over for the new Mexican-inspired restaurant from the owners of Local Foods. Maximo is now open daily for lunch and dinner.

    Located in the former El Topo space at 6119 Edloe in West University Place, Maximo blends the best parts of El Topo with the expertise of Local Foods owners Dylan Murray and Benjy Levit and the company’s culinary director Seth Siegel-Gardner. The result is a family-friendly, counter service restaurant based around Mexican flavors, Texas ingredients, and tortillas made with nixtamalized heirloom corn.

    “Every item on this menu was carefully selected to ensure all our ingredients are from nearby farms and producers that reflect the bounty of the Gulf Coast region,” Levit said in a statement. “From farm-fresh vegetables to locally sourced meats and cheeses, every ingredient embodies the ethos of local foods.”

    Led by executive chef and former El Topo owner Tony Luhrman, the former restaurant’s signature barbacoa taco remains, but the rest of its lineup is new. They include two tempura-fried tacos made with a gluten-free batter — one, a fish taco topped with avocado-pea puree, lime crema, and more, and the other, a hen-of-the-woods mushrooms topped with corn nut chili crisp and pickled beech mushrooms. Other choices include smoked chicken with corn rajas and pepitas and a sweet potato taco with bagna cuada and shaved kale salad. Those looking for a touch of luxury with find a king crab taco dressed with edamame, asparagus, chive flowers, baja crema, cornichon, and nasturtium.

    Starters include a selection of salads and shareables, including Caesar salad, watermelon salad with fresh cotija cheese, campechana, and chips with salsa, queso, or guacamole. Even the El Topo smash burger has been reworked to include a topping of onions, lettuce, and remoulade that’s partially inspired by the Edloe Street Deli and partially inspired by a Big Mac. For dessert, the restaurant will offer a rotating selection of soft serve ice cream with toppings as well as horchata rice krispie treats.

    Maximo restaurant smash burgerThe burger features two beef patties, special sauce, lettice, onions, and cheese.Photo by Julie Soefer

    Beverage options include housemade agua frescas and cocktails such as a frozen margarita, the Peacemaker (bourbon, mezcal, Montenegro), and the Red Dawn (rum, prickly pear).

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a space that’s been completely redesigned by Brittany Vaughn of Garnish Design, who also created the signature looks for Levit’s Rice Village French restaurant Eau Tour and its adjacent wine bar Lees Den. Inspired by the setting of a desert oasis, the 35-seat dining room incorporates mid-century modern elements and features art from Houston’s Southern Kindness Gallery. The patio has been covered and reworked with booth-style seating and a fountain.

    Maximo restaurant exterior

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Maximo is now open for lunch and dinner daily.

    Maximo restaurant patioThe patio has been covered and now features a fountain.Photo by Julie Soefer

    Prior to partnering with Levit and Murray, Luhrman operated El Topo first as a food truck and then as a restaurant. As he told CultureMap last year, the restaurant struggled financially despite praise that included making Texas Monthly’s best new restaurant list in 2021, multiple CultureMap Tastemaker Award nominations, and Luhrman twice winning the Golden Cleaver at the Butcher’s Ball food festival. He saw partnering with Murray and Levit as the way to focus on his strengths while gaining expertise in other aspects of restaurant operations.

    “Ultimately, I love food. I love cooking. It’s one of the things I’m best at. I’ve been working really hard for almost two decades to make the best food possible. I had to step away from that to keep the business running,” Luhrman said last year prior to closing El Topo to convert it to Maximo. “Launching this restaurant is an opportunity for me to refocus on the food I really want to cook.”

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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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