what's eric eating episodes 393 and 394

Previewing a new Mediterranean restaurant, plus chefs react to Michelin

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” restaurateur Itai Ben Eli and chef Yotam Dolev join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Okto, a new Mediterranean restaurant. Scheduled to open in the Montrose Collective mixed-use development as soon as next month, Okto joins sister concepts Hamsa and Doris Metropolitan as part of Sof Hospitality.

Ben Eli explains that Okto will serve dishes inspired by Mediterranean countries such as Greece and Spain. It will also feature a tightly edited menu of approximately 16 items that will rotate seasonally.

“The dishes at Okto are going to be more detailed and more layered than the ones we have at Hamsa, which is based more on traditional cooking,” Ben Eli says. “Okto is going to be a little more modern with layers and elevations that we’ll do daily.”

“The idea is to bring something we think is currently missing,” he adds. “I just spent about 10 days in Madrid with my family. Seeing a lot of classics in Spain and you say, ‘how could we don’t have anything quite like this in Houston?’ We’re bringing vibrant flavors that current chefs are doing in the southern Mediterranean.”

Dolev adds a few more thoughts. “We’re really trying to change the rules when it comes to the culinary scene and Okto. I just came back from Israel a couple of weeks ago. The scene there is amazing. I thought, I need to bring a touch of this, a touch of Italy, a touch of Greece.”

Listen to the full episode to hear the duo’s thoughts on the news that the Michelin Guide is coming to Texas. Perhaps they’ll be among the happy hospitality groups when the first Texas star and Bib Gourmand awards are issued later this year.

Speaking of Michelin, this week’s other episode consists of a free-flowing conversation about the guide that involves three chefs and a Houstonian who’s eaten at starred restaurants around the world. Chefs RJ Yoakum (Georgie in Dallas), Emmanuel Chavez (Tatemó in Houston), and Ryan Lachaine (Riel in Houston) join Sandler and tech entrepreneur Misha Govshteyn to debate how significant the guide’s arrival is in Houston, whether it will change how restaurants operate, and how many Houston restaurants will earn stars.

Among the more interesting points, Yoakum shares that the opportunity to earn a Michelin star has enabled him to entice talented cooks to follow his path from California to Texas. Chavez adds that Tatemó has already seen more interest in reservations just from media speculation that it could earn a star. Govshteyn takes a more long term view.

“It’s not about this year. What you’ll see is a big impact in year five. Think about it this way — how many Texas chefs cook at some of the best restaurants around the world but feel like they can’t come back and open a place because they won’t find the support or meet their goals professionally,” he says. “Think about all the chefs who’ve worked for Enrique Olvera at Pujol. They’re not coming back here. When it’s a Michelin market, they will.”

Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

Yotam Dolev is one of this week's guests.

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One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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