Houston's post-Rodeo restaurant opening boom is in full effect. Following closely behind the recent debuts of Prime 131 and Bar Bludorn comes another eagerly anticipated new eatery from a veteran of Houston’s hospitality scene.
Little Rey is now open in between River Oaks District and Highland Village at 2345 Mid Ln. Created by Superica owner Ford Fry — who is also the restaurateur behind State of Grace and La Lucha — Little Rey is a fast-casual concept inspired by South Texas and Northern Mexico. Fry tells CultureMap that, as he began expanding Superica across the Southeast, he saw an opportunity for a restaurant that took inspiration from Mexico but could operate in a smaller footprint that a full-service restaurant. Just don’t call it Tex-Mex.
“I call it Northern Mexico,” Fry says. “We have queso on the menu, but it leans more Mexican than Superica.”
Little Rey's menu focuses on tacos and chicken al carbon, which is prepared in a custom, wood-fired grill. Diners may order whole or half chickens for either dine-in or to-go They’re served with rice and beans, salsas, and flour tortillas. Smoked chicken wings and salads topped with chicken are also available.
The menu also includes beef fajitas and pork belly tacos served on housemade flour tortillas and more traditionally Mexican tacos such as carne asada, smoked brisket, carnitas, and shrimp served on corn tortillas. Fry worked with a grill designer to create the proper apparatus for cooking chicken that’s crispy, juicy, and smoky.
“We researched that in Mexico they have these wood or charcoal burning grills that flip and rotate, which takes a little bit of skill not to burn the chicken,” Fry says. “We created a modified wood burning grill with a box on it. It’s like a hot smoker where the grates get hot enough to char the skin but you still get the wood smoke. It’s a little more forgiving for an employee who’s not used to using a grill.”
Chicken are prepared in this custom grill.Photo by Eric Sandler
On the weekends, Little Rey serves breakfast tacos and Superica’s signature pancakes. Beverage options include Mexican and craft beers, agua frescas, and both frozen and on-the-rocks margaritas.
For Fry, a native Houstonian who’s based in Atlanta, the concept fills a gap in the market. It’s more casual and a little faster than a full-service Tex-Mex restaurant and more traditionally Mexican than fusion taco spots like Velvet Taco or Torchy’s Tacos. With so many Tex-Mex restaurants nearby, he sees an opportunity for a family-friendly spot that offers an alternative to the Tex-Mex staples of fajitas and enchiladas.
“When I was growing up here, you’d drive to Pappasito’s and wait two hours for a table. I don’t know that that really happens anymore,” he says. “There’s too many options for Tex-Mex sit down. This may be a little fresher for Houston. I don’t know who our competition is for this kind of thing.”
The most obvious comparison is Goode Co. Taqueria, which also serves tacos filled with wood-grilled meats. Fry acknowledges the similarities.
“I grew up eating there,” he says. “It’s definitely inspired by Goode Co. Taqueria. That was quick service before quick service was quick service.”
Families will appreciate that Little Rey’s large, covered patio is next to an expansive green space. Based on his experiences with the restaurant’s original location in Atlanta, he expects it to be popular with parents and kids. Yes, it’s okay if things get a little messy.
Courtesy of Little Rey
Little Rey is now open for lunch and dinner.
“I love going to a restaurant and seeing families with kids there with beans all over their face and chips on the floor. It’s just rewarding for me, especially in the city I grew up in,” he says.
Little Rey is open for lunch and dinner daily with breakfast served on the weekends. Hours of operation are 11 am - 9 pm, Monday-Thursday; 11 am - 10 pm, Friday; 9 am - 10 pm, Saturday; and 9 am - 9 pm, Sunday.
Get all the details, including a complete menu, at the restaurant’s website.
