Once relegated to only the most premium fine dining restaurants, caviar is now served on menus throughout Houston. More than anything, what defines the city’s current caviar moment is that chefs want diners to enjoy the experience in non-traditional ways.
Yes, the familiar accompaniments are widely available — and remain popular — but many establishments have also distinguished themselves by swapping traditional blini and egg yolks for everything from potato dumplings to salmon skin chips to stroopwafels. Houstonians who want to order a full caviar service have plenty of options, but they can also get a more affordable taste via dishes such as a caviar tot or a caviar doughnut.
Yes, it’s still expensive (good ingredients always are) but the message is that caviar can be fun. Even fine dining institution Tony’s is loosening up a bit, serving its caviar with an optional shot of vodka that’s chilled in a block of ice.
a’Bouzy
Just like its wine list, the champagne-fueled River Oaks restaurant sells its caviar at a lower markup to make it more accessible. On the first Friday of every month, that includes selling caviar at cost. Usually, the restaurant’s caviar is served with blini and traditional accompaniments, but diners have the option of adding Pringles or chilled vodka to upgrade the experience.
Baso
The Basque-inspired restaurant in the Heights has been earning raves for its unusual caviar service. Instead of blini, the restaurant makes a classic stroopwafel that's filled with a caramel that’s infused with an umami-heavy combination of kelp, bonito, shiitake, and niboshi (dried anchovy). Served with Lucky Layla butter from Houston Dairymaids, diners have three caviar choices: Siberian osetra, golden, or grandeur. The result is a compelling sweet-salty combination that earned a shout out from chef Justin Yu during CultureMap’s Ultimate Date Night draft.
Berg Hospitality
Six of the company’s concepts offer traditional caviar service — Annabelle Brasserie, The Annie Cafe, B&B Butchers, Emilia’s Havana, Prime 131, and Turner’s. Diners may choose from four options: Berg Hospitality Reserve (Royal White Sturgeon), $160; Kaviari Paris Baeri, $140; Kaviari Paris Kristal, $160; and Kaviari Paris Oscietre Prestige, $190.
Caviar fans will want to keep their eyes on Turner’s Cut, the ultra-luxurious steakhouse that’s scheduled to open next month in the Autry Park mixed-used development. It will feature caviar carts loaded with Golden Osetra.
Katami
The Montrose-area Japanese restaurant offers caviar alongside its extensive sushi program. Both Kaluga and Osetra caviar are served in a sterling silver bowl where they’re paired with crispy salmon skin chips, cauliflower mousse, and chives. Upgrade the offering by adding Japanese uni.
Little’s Oyster Bar
Chef Jason Ryczek demonstrates his caviar enthusiasm by attending an invitation-only caviar camp where he selects the sturgeon that will be harvested for the restaurant’s caviar. Little’s pairs its caviar with potato dumplings, hush puppies, radish butter, onion jam, and chives. Recently, Ryczek added dressed oysters that are topped with hibiscus ponzu, green oil, and caviar.
March
As part of its Països Catalans menu that’s inspired by Catalan-speaking regions such as Catalonia, the Balearic Islands, Alicante and Castelló in Eastern Spain, and the principality of Andorra, chef Felipe Riccio and his team have developed a caviar service that includes smoked egg yolk, creme fraiche topped with black walnut leek emulsion and leek ash, a white asparagus and caper relish, and spiced almond and duck skin crumble. It’s available as the first course both the six and nine-course menus, as well as a standalone caviar service in the restaurant’s lounge.
Navy Blue
No surprise that Aaron Bludorn’s Rice Village seafood restaurant serves caviar in a variety of ways. Splurge on Siberian or Osetra varieties that are served with either blinis or mini potato pancakes. Caviar can also be added to dishes such as oysters (available raw, roasted, or fried), chilled shrimp, or added to kampachi tartare. The truly caviar obsessed should sample the Apple and Eggs dessert — a bowl of green apple sorbet and creme fraiche gelato that’s topped with Siberian caviar.
PostScript
Many meals at the Upper Kirby restaurant begin with its signature caviar doughnuts, but chef Bryan Caswell also has a more extravagant option available. The restaurant’s caviar service allows diners to build their own bites with a selection of vessels that includes celery root crème fraîche, mini buckwheat waffles, deviled quail eggs, a drinkable cauliflower cocktail, or oyster crackers. PostScript’s caviar selection includes American ghost pepper caviar, Israeli Imperial Golden Osetra, Californian White Sturgeon, and Siberian Osetra from Poland.
Riel
The restaurant’s signature caviar potato tots are just one option for those looking to enjoy the delicacy. Potato fans may also opt for truffle pierogi that are sauced with a caviar beurre blanc. For true devotees, consider the eye-catching caviar board that’s loaded with house cultured butter, egg yolk, egg white, chives, capers, and buckwheat blinis. Riel offers a rotating selection of caviar that currently includes Diamond Osetra, Imperial Osetra, Royal Siberian, and Kaluga Hybrid.
Tony’s
Since returning as chef-partner two years ago, Kate McLane has made caviar a staple of Tony’s offerings. The restaurant carries five different kinds of caviar and serves them five different ways:
Photo by Zach Horst
March changes its caviar service for each season.
Classic: Yukon gold blinis, red onion, creme fraiche, and egg yolk.
Bread and Butter: A Russian-inspired take of brioche slices paired with Maison Le Gall, a cultured butter from Normandy
Pasta Portonova: A tableside preparation in which an ounce of caviar is tossed with fresh tagliarini and a horseradish fish fumet
The Ocean's Cup: Inspired by the pairing of oysters and caviar, this preparation features warm Prestige oyster froth with squash blossom frito misto
Potato Robertson: One ounce of caviar served atop a tiny baked potato that is filled with Robuchon-style mashed potatoes
“We do caviar flights all the time now,” McLane adds. “Listed on the website are a few types of flights, but we mix and match in the moment, too, so guests can pick and choose what they would like to try.”
