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What's Eric Eating Episodes 408 and 409

State of Grace duo dish on rebooting the River Oaks favorite

CultureMap Staff
Sep 27, 2024 | 5:58 pm

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chefs Ford Fry and Bobby Matos join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Houston restaurants. Fry, the founder of Rocket Farm Restaurants, recently updated his River Oaks restaurant State of Grace and opened Little Rey’s, a family friendly taco restaurant.



The conversation begins with a deep dive into the decision to make changes at State of Grace. Formerly a restaurant that was primarily devoted to Gulf Coast seafood, State of Grace 2.0 takes inspiration from Continental cuisine and dining traditions of the ‘70s. The restaurant’s waiters are more dressed up than before, and they’re being tasked with tableside touches such as making Caesar salad dressing from scratch. After nine years, the time had some to shake things up.

“Part of my job is making sure things are fresh, that we’re keeping the facility’s up, that we’re keeping the style of service current, and also keeping things fresh so we don’t get bored or complacent,” Fry says. “It’s just that gut feel of when do we feel like we’re ready for a shakeup. We don’t want to kill the things they’ve come to know us for. It’s really about staying on top of things and what’s going to be fun for us.”

Turning to Little Rey’s, Fry explains that the restaurant is a more Mexican companion to Superica, the company’s Tex-Mex establish in the Heights. Its fast casual service model makes it appealing to families with young kids who appreciate how quickly the food is served.

“To me the biggest selling point is I can drop in with my family, we can sit down in the restaurant, eat our meal in under 30 minutes and be home,” Matos says. “That’s a huge plus for anyone with kids who’s in between soccer games or coming after school.”

Listen to the full episode for an in-depth conversation about the food at both restaurants. Fry and Matos also hint that a similar refresh is coming soon to Superica.



In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Monica Danna discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Ronnie Killen’s decision to close Killen’s STQ, his live fire steakhouse in Briargrove; Katz’s choosing Memorial for its next location; and Loro opening a new location near Rice Village.

In this restaurants of the week segment, the hosts discuss their recent visit to Drake’s Hollywood, the posh Dallas import that recently claimed the former Underbelly space on Westheimer. Then, they share first impressions of Okto, the new Mediterranean restaurant from the team behind Doris Metropolitan and Hamsa.

State of Grace exterior CROP
Photo by Julie Soefer

State of Grace has undergone a major refresh.

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Kirby Ice House 5

Houston's modern ice house plans fall opening for new Clear Lake outpost

Eric Sandler
Jul 16, 2026 | 4:15 pm
Kirby Ice House Clear Lake
Courtesy of Kirby Ice House
A rendering previews Kirby Ice House's Clear Lake location.

Houston’s growing chain of modern ice houses is heading to the Bay Area. Kirby Ice House will open a Clear Lake outpost in September.

Located near the Johnson Space Center and Space Center Houston at open at 530 Bay Area Boulevard, the new Kirby Ice House will build on the brand’s winning formula — a huge indoor-outdoor bar with an extensive selection of beer and cocktails, lawn games, space for food trucks, and plenty of TVs for watching sports. The Clear Lake location will also offer Kirby Ice House’s daily specials and happy hour discounts.

The bar is customing its interior for Clear Lake. For example, the design will nod to NASA with a neon sign that depicts its signature cowgirl riding a rocket.

“One of the things we enjoy most is creating spaces that reflect the communities they serve,” co-owner Danny Evans said in a statement. “We never want our locations to feel copied and pasted. We want them to have their own personality, and we hope guests feel that from the moment they walk in.”

While the construction team is building the bar, Kirby Ice House has already begun recruiting the 100 or so employees who will be necessary at opening by setting up a hiring facility adjacent to the construction site.

Those employees will be pouring beers from dozens of taps alongside wines by-the-glass or bottle. Kirby Ice House also serves cocktails such as a cucumber-lime Moscow Mule, blood orange paloma, and lemonade Old Fashioned. A rotating roster of food trucks serves customers who want a bite with their beers. Taken together, the extensive selection and massive footprint have helped each location of Kirby Ice House rank among the highest’s grossing bars in Texas.

Over time, the concept has grown to four Houston-area locations in Upper Kirby, Memorial City, The Woodlands, and a Heights-adjacent location that opened last year.

“The Kirby Ice House team is excited to become part of Clear Lake’s vibrant, historic culture,” added vice president of operations Margo Axton. “We’re looking forward to being a neighborhood gathering place that supports local businesses, welcomes casual groups, and gives the community an easy place to meet up before, during, or after whatever the day has planned.”

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