Editor's note: Long before Chris Shepherd became a James Beard Award-winning chef, he developed enough of a passion for wine to work at Brennan's of Houston as a sommelier. He maintains that interest to this day. When Chris expressed interest in writing about wine-related topics for CultureMap, we said yes.
In this week's column, he shares his love for the wine programs and upcoming and events at red-hot Houston restaurants Bludorn and Navy Blue, led by wine director Molly Austad. Take it away, Chris.
What’s happening, team? It’s been a minute! Sorry for the delay, but you know, it’s been hot and I have been on the road talking Southern Smoke with people. Shall we all raise a glass to — August, I guess!
Anyhoo, I had the opportunity to sit down with Molly Austad, wine director for Bludorn and Navy Blue to talk wine lists, what she’s drinking, and some new exciting things that are coming up really soon. I never thought I would get a jump on Eric Sandler when it comes to breaking news, but yep, I think I did it! More on that in a minute.
I have been a fan of both wine lists and wanted to know more about Molly’s thought process when curating the lists.
If you haven’t been, let me give you a run down about Bludorn and Navy Blue and then question what you have been doing! Bludorn just turned three years old this week (Eric was the first to report its opening) and has been cruising along since day one. It’s a favorite spot for my wife and me to go for date nights which are generally Mondays.
Aaron Bludorn (pictured with wife Victoria Pappas Bludorn at the 2023 Kentucky Derby) can do no wrong with is two hot restaurants.
Photo courtesy of Aaron Bludorn
It’s what Aaron [Bludorn, chef and co-owner] called ‘Contemporary Luxury’ and I feel like that is exactly what it is. You can have delicious oysters, pasta, fish dishes, and amazing meat dishes (don’t sleep on the chicken).
What we truly love is the depth of choices on the list. Massive wine by the glass, a variety of well known producers and smaller production wines, and different grape varietals. Wrap that up with a bow — it’s a great list.
Navy Blue has a seafood-focused menu with the same feeling. Instead of a burger and a chicken dish you get a fried grouper sandwich and a roasted Dover sole. This wine list is smaller and focused on the food just like at Bludorn, but it’s more in tune to whites and other chilled wines. It also has a selection of red wines. Just like the chicken and steak on the menu that offer an alternative to seafood, the reds are delicious and well thought out.
What is Molly sipping on these days? Spanish Verdejo and Australian Grenache, obscure and delicious and I say "hell yes!" to that. She also has some cool plans coming up as well. Big Bottle Wednesday at Navy Blue will kick off soon, which you will probably catch me there for that. You know I love large format wines with their longer age ability and killer flavors. She will be pouring cool stuff from 3-liter bottles with a changing rotation.
Now for some really amazing and breaking news (Editor's note 2: Way to go Eric Sandler on this, Chris!). Starting in September, Navy Blue will host dinners on specific Monday nights that will teach consumers about wine. Want to learn more about how to taste wine, smell wine, enjoy wine, and just be all around more knowledgeable about wine while eating a paired dinner so you can learn about pairings too? GENIUS!
Now you can go on a deep dive with a professional and learn what it is you truly love about wine, which will help you start to expand why you love it and to branch out to new things. Are you a Chardonnay lover? But why? What is it about that wine you love and how do you discover more wines like it?
This is a bowl full of knowledge that most folks don’t get to have without tasting all day every day, which quite frankly isn’t easy but I would be willing to give it a try. Having access to multiple wines with dinner and someone to guide you through it helps you to respect wine more. I approve.
Get on the mailing list or put your ears to the ground to follow them so know when the announce these special dinners. Trust me, dining and learning is key.
Well played, Molly. I like your style.
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Contact our Wine Guy via email at chris@chrisshepherdconcepts.com.
Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $10 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Currently, he's working on a new TV show called Eat Like A Local that will air on KPRC beginning in September.
