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    Fung's Kitchen BYOB Guide

    Chris Shepherd suggests the best BYOB wines for a Chinese food feast

    Chris Shepherd
    Aug 23, 2024 | 2:30 pm
    Fung's Kitchen sign

    It's dangerous to go alone. Take Chris' guide with you.

    Fung's Kitchen/Facebook

    What’s happening team!

    I hope your late summer has been great. Mine has been fantastic. We did a small Southern Smoke Festival in Napa Valley, my wife and I went to Chicago to see Metallica and got to meet some members of the band, and we just got home from a quick trip to Kauai with family and now I’m back at it!


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Chris Shepherd (@cshepherd13)


    I want to start a discussion in this forum. I absolutely love going to restaurants and looking over the wine list to really see the personality of the restaurant coming through — seeing how the buyer puts their spin on what they think you should drink with that specific restaurant’s food. But what if there is no wine list?

    It’s time to talk about BYOB restaurants! First, let's talk about the law. Can you take wine with you to any restaurant? The answer is no, not according to the Texas Alcoholic Beverage Code. If a restaurant or club holds a mixed beverage permit — that means they serve liquor — the answer is absolutely no, you cannot bring in your own alcohol. So that removes most restaurants from the BYOB equation. Not even on your anniversary, birthday, or any other special occasion. The answer is still no, and restaurants that ignore those regulations risk major fines from the TABC (Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission).

    If the restaurant holds a beer and wine license or doesn’t have a liquor license at all, the law allows you to bring your own wine, but it’s best to call and ask before you do. Don’t pull out a law book — just understand that restaurants may want you to order something from their list. Sometimes, the restaurant just doesn’t have the right glassware, or the owners might have a religious reason that they don’t carry alcohol. We need to respect the operators. We love them and are thankful they are running beautiful restaurants in our wonderful city.

    If they allow you to bring in wine, always ask about their corkage fee. Generally, it’s $10-$15 per bottle. I would also check their list before you go; bring something they don’t have on their list.

    Let’s walk through my BYOB thought process for just a second. I like to be prepared. First, I decide where to go. Let’s go with Fung’s Kitchen, because I love it and I just ate there. Second is how many people are going with you — we had five. I get the bag ready. I love a Yeti Hopper, the soft sided cooler is perfect for taking wine with you anywhere. I also have some frozen gel packs in the freezer so I throw them in the cooler. I make sure that there is a wine opener in there as well.

    Five people means at least four bottles need to be packed — not because we will drink all five — but you need to have options just in case any of your wine is flawed. Nobody wants to bring one bottle and find out it’s corked.

    Going to Fung’s is a food and wine lovers dream. Even at night, you can order select dumplings to start off, which are great with champagne from any producer you love. I always hit up Antonio Gianola at Houston Wine Merchant for a good recommendation. I also have been on a crisp Sauvignon Blanc kick for a while especially those from producers like Rocchioli or Ink Grade.

    Then move into some of the live seafood items like a Dungeness crab in tamarind sauce, steamed spot prawns or shrimp, plus they just put a Lobster Mountain on the menu, and it’s magnificent.

    Fung's Kitchen lobster mountainBehold the lobster mountainPhoto by Chris Shepherd

    I feel like I just heard the record player come to a complete stop and the room went silent — yes, I said Lobster Mountain. What is that you say?

    The mad geniuses at Fung’s have created a show stopping mountain of six beautifully seasoned fried lobsters and French fries stacked to the moon! I had no idea what we were getting into when I said “yes, I want that!” When it hit the table I feel like the earth shook and the everyone at the table jaws hit the floor. What an absolute spectacle and it wasn’t just pretty, it was delicious. [Editor’s note: As of August 22, the dish costs $168 but is subject to market pricing.]

    This is a dish that you absolutely need to get your friends together and go try. It’s a must on the new bucket list. It’s just fun, and anytime something like this comes around you owe it to yourself to go try it and enjoy life. This is also where I tend to move into some killer Chardonnay from Hirsch Family Vineyards.

    At this point, if you can take on a Peking duck, it’s time to get down with a great Pinot Noir from Sonoma or one of my favorite areas like Santa Barbara. Burgundy or Beaujolais work fantastic here as well. There is just something magical about roasted crispy duck with hoisin stuffed into a steamed bun with some Dragonette Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir — delicious.

    If you really thought things through and read this thoroughly, then you might have packed some amaro in that bag. It’s time to pull that out because there is one more item that without a doubt needs to hit the table.

    You can never — and I mean never — leave Fung’s without ordering the lava buns. Crispy but soft, light but dense, these warm buns filled with a warm, salted egg custard are one of the greatest desserts of all time. I would warn you to be careful and lean over the plate when biting into this bun because when I say “filled” I mean it’s loaded!

    Now that we have started the conversation about BYOB restaurants, I see myself talking about this topic more regularly. I feel that understanding what to bring is crucial. If you prepare yourself with the right bottles, your meals will be so much more memorable and those wines that you have been collecting will shine so much more.

    As a final thought, I would remind you to be able fully enjoy these type of meals is to always be responsible and use a ride share for the evening. I want you to be safe and have a blast! Til next time, cheers!

    -----

    Which style of restaurant would you like Chris's next BYOB guide to focus on? Send your suggestions to our Wine Guy via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.

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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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