Foodie News

A harvest of restaurants: November's new eateries

Hearsay Gastro Lounge
Photo by Julie Soefer
At Branch Water Tavern, bacon-wrapped prawns and cheddar grits over a poachedegg
Photo by Kimberly Park
Byrd's Market & Cafe
Adam Brackman
Bistro Alex
Photo by Bill Olive

It's a recipe for a fabulous fall: new restaurants opening so fast it's hard to keep them straight. Here's the skinny on the newest eateries to find yourself at... until next week, at least!

Youssef Nafaa made his name bringing Spanish tapas to Houston in the 1990s with Rice Village's Mi Luna (he sold it a few years ago and it's never been the same since), so his new Andalucia Tapas and Taverna at Houston Pavilions is kind of like going back to basics. In addition to a plethora of hot and cold tapas, Andalucia also offers up Spanish-style sandwiches, Mediterranean-classic entrees, a serious wine list and flamenco dance on Thursdays.

Twin concepts from Brennan's Alex Brennan-Martin at Hotel Sorella, Bistro Alex offers a mix of modern and traditional bistro fare in a gorgeous setting, and Café Rose is a European-style venue with coffee, sandwiches, light bites and wine.

A modern-American tavern in the former Cue & Cushion spot, Branch Water Tavern serves up seasonal and local ingredients in dishes by exec chef David Grossman that range from classic to current; as well as cultured cocktails, beers and wine by beverage director Evan Turner. Did we mention the kitchen will stay open 'til 2 a.m. on weekends?

With Byrd's Market & Café (opening this week) at long last a market has come to the historic district of downtown, with organic produce, artisan breads and an extensive wine selection. The café will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, (with a particularly great and varied burger menu) and everything, down to the condiments, is made in-house.

Those in the know are already hip to Hearsay, a swank new downtown speakeasy-style spot in the second-oldest building in Houston. With a modern Gothic vibe like no place else in town, old-school cocktails by master mixologist Britton Douglass and noshes by Grille 5115's Pedro Silva, it's smarter than the average bar.

At The Rockwood Room, chef/owner Michael dei Maggi, last seen at Max's Wine Dive, and co-owner Robert Hall III take a page from the Mad Men era with robust American favorites and Rat Pack–ready décor.

A culinary A-Team of Bill Floyd, exec chef Bryan Caswell, Justin Basye (of Voice) and Dave Poss (last at Vic & Anthony's) make up Stella Sola in the former Bedford spot, dedicated to Texas ingredients (dry-aged cuts of beef, fresh catch from the Gulf, pasta made in-house daily) and the flavors and influence of Northern Italy, as well as desserts by Rebecca Masson and a drinks menu by Anvil's Bobby Heugel.

A funky beach house with a laid-back vibe and fresh, south of the border eats, Yelapa Playa Mexicana is the latest incarnation from industry vet Chuck Bulnes. Chef L.J. Wiley serves up flavorful, seafood-oriented botanas, tacos and entrees, including ceviche, tiradito and a kick-ass campechana.

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Anthony's song

Prolific Houston pizza chef fires up a new Italian restaurant in River Oaks

Courtesy of Anthony's New York Italian

Anthony's New York Italian is now open near Central Market.

One of Houston’s most prolific pizzaiolos has quietly opened a new restaurant in River Oaks. Anthony Russo, founder of Russo’s New York Pizzeria, has opened Anthony’s New York Italian in the former Pie Tap Pizza space at 3748 Westheimer.

While Russo is known primarily for his fast casual restaurants that sling New York-style pies, Anthony’s New York Italian is both more personal and more upscale. It takes inspiration from his Italian heritage — his father grew up in Naples and his mother grew up in Sicily — as well as Russo’s Italian Restaurant, the Galveston eatery his parents operated for almost 20 years.

“We had veal, lobster, Gulf snapper, a lot of nice, classic dishes. There’s where I grew up in the kitchen,” Russo tells CultureMap. “I was always around fine dining restaurants. My mom and dad used to bring in chefs from Italy. They were excellent chefs. That’s what we had in Galveston for 18 years.”

With Russo’s at more than 50 locations, the time felt right to open a more upscale concept. Partially inspired by New York restaurants such as Carbone and Quality Italian, Russo thinks Houstonians will appreciate his high-end take on Italian American fare.

The menu includes lobster fra diavolo, a 24-ounce prime porterhouse, bone-in veal parmesan, frutti di mare (shellfish with tomato sauce over pappardelle), and more. In addition, the dish utilize Italian olive oil that’s pressed by one of the chef’s friends. Anthony’s also makes all of its doughs, sauces, and sausage in house.

Of course, Russo is making pizza, too. They’re baked in imported Italian ovens using slightly different dough and sauce recipes — along with imported mozzarella and burrata — than his more casual restaurants.

And, no, Russo isn’t concerned that a pizzeria lasted less than a year in the space.

“I feel confident this location is going to be a killer for us. We make homemade pasta on site here, fresh from scratch.” he says. “We're bringing fresh lobster. We're bringing fresh clams. We got a nice veal chop. I mean, these are all chef-selected ingredients. I don't think anybody's doing that in town right now.”

The restaurant is still in such early days that it doesn’t have its own website or social media pages yet. For now, diners can follow Russo on Instagram for updates.

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Anthony's New York Italian is open for dinner Monday-Thursday beginning at 4 pm. It’s open for lunch and dinner on Friday and Saturday beginning at 11 am. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

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