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    What's Eric Eating Episode 167

    A Houston-area pitmaster's red-hot rise, plus sizzling Korean BBQ

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 23, 2020 | 10:29 am

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," pitmaster Jim Buchanan joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Dozier's BBQ, the Fulshear staple that's been smoking meats since 1957. Buchanan begins the conversation by explaining how his interest in competition-style barbecue led him to the world of professional cooking via a friendship with Pappa Charlies Barbeque founder Wes Jurena.

    After a stint in Galveston operating his own restaurant didn't go as planned, Buchanan joined Dozier's earlier this year. He's adapted his Central Texas-influenced style to Dozier's traditions by using pecan wood (instead of oak) and a slightly different spice mix than he did before, but he's also trying to bring the classic barbecue joint more in line with contemporary tastes and techniques.

    One change Buchanan has made is moving to a traditional, market-style pricing structure where barbecue is sold by weight instead of as plates. When Sandler observes that it can be simpler to order by the piece — "give me a slice of brisket and two pork ribs" — rather than trying to guess how much meat is in a half-pound, Buchanan acknowledges he's adopted a similar approach.

    "People walk up and they say, 'you don't have plates anymore.' I tell them everything is priced a la carte now, but I can build you a plate. You just have to tell me what sides you would like and what meats you would like and then we'll talk about the quantity," Buchanan says. "It's very helpful to have a cutting block in public view where the scale is right next to the cutter. You put a half-pound of brisket right in front of them and say 'will that work for you?'"

    He also discusses the recent wave of media attention Dozier's has received recently. Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn recently wrote a favorable review, and Chronicle critic Alison Cook praised Dozier's sides after a recent visit. All the attention has barbecue fans making the trip down the Westpark Tollroad to see what Buchanan is up to.

    Prior to the interview, Avondale Food & Wine owner Mary Clarkson joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topic include: Fertitta Entertainment's partnership with the King Ranch to open King Ranch Texas Kitchen, a new restaurant devoted to steaks and other Texan flavors; Hungry Like the Wolf, an 80s themed restaurant opening later this year along the Washington corridor; and what the closure of Kenny & Ziggy's location near West U. says about the challenges small restaurants face while they're required to follow social distancing protocols.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson describe their visit to Handam BBQ, a Korean barbecue restaurant in Chinatown. They praise the restaurant's flavorful meats, extensive selection of banchan, and helpful service.

    View this post on Instagram

    You drooling? Cuz we’re drooling 🤤 Come have some delicious KBBQ and Soju shots with us!! Open for dine-in or takeout!

    A post shared by Handam BBQ (@handambbq) on

    Jul 22, 2020 at 4:27pm PDT

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    A tray of barbecue at Dozier's.

    Dozier's BBQ Jim Buchanan barbecue tray
      
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
    A tray of barbecue at Dozier's.
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    long live the king

    Houstonians will get the royal treatment at this lively new steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    May 14, 2025 | 11:20 am
    King Steak restaurant food spread
    Photo by Lauren Holub
    King Steak serves its guacamole with bacon.

    Houston’s newest steakhouse aims to lure diners with a simple, back-to-basics approach. Opening Wednesday, May 21, King Steak is the latest project from restaurateur Johnny Vassallo and chef Eric Aldis, two of the people behind Mo's...A Place for Steaks, a see-and-be-seen steakhouse that thrived on Post Oak until it closed in 2016.

    Working together, Vassallo as owner and Aldis as operating partner, the duo intends for King Steak to recapture Mo’s lively atmosphere while serving a menu in line with current trends, such as frying items in beef tallow rather than seed oils. For Aldis, who’s done everything from serving as a senior manager who helped grow Federal Grill to operating a short-lived barbecue joint in Midtown, the opportunity to focus on a single location is a welcome change of pace.

    “I’ve been overseeing a bunch of pubs and restaurants,” Aldis tells CultureMap. “Now, I’ll be at King’s six days a week. I want to be more centralized and do one spot for the next 20 years.”

    For a restaurant with “steak” in its name, King Steak keeps things simple. It serves a 16-ounce strip, a 20-ounce ribeye, and a filet in three sizes ranging from four to 12 ounces. They’re joined by steakhouse staples such as Caesar salad, shrimp cocktail, and four different potato sides — loaded baked potato, jalapeño hashbrowns, mashed potatoes, and beef tallow fries.

    Where the restaurant sets itself apart is its selection of non-steak entrees. Options include a short rib with mashed potatoes, chicken Parmesan, ahi tuna with mushrooms and Brussels sprouts, and a French dip sandwich. One item Aldis hopes diners will embrace is the restaurant’s vegetable charcuterie, a shareable appetizer platter made with grilled and roasted vegetables paired with an array of dipping sauces.

    “Having artichoke carpaccio, beet pastrami, all different types of vegetables presented in the style of charcuterie. It’s fun and a little healthy, too,” Aldis says. “Don’t get wrong. I still love a great charcuterie board with meats and cheeses, but it’s something different that goes well with a glass of wine and chilling on a patio.”

    Speaking of the patio, Vassallo and Aldis have invested in major upgrades to location’s outdoor seating, which now has year-round utility courtesy of glass walls and climate control. Formerly Osteria Mazzantini and Cafe Ginger, the dining room has been transformed with a mural and artwork that evokes the American West.

    Aldis is confident that the patio, and the restaurant’s private dining room that can be divided into three spaces, will help lure customers — as will Aldis’ outgoing personality.

    “Don’t shy away from a caviar bump when I’m walking around with a kilo to get the party started,” he says with a laugh.

    Yes, the Galleria area is thick with steakhouses at all price points, but many are corporate-owned or part of larger chains. Aldis sees an opportunity for a locally-owned, single location to distinguish itself with a more personal approach.

    “We’re not chef driven. We’re guest driven. That’s where we want to be,” he says. Later, he adds, “Whatever you want, we’ll go above and beyond to make it happen. Give me a couple days, I’ll get it in. We’ll make it beautiful for you.”

    King Steak is located at 2200 Post Oak Blvd. It will be open for dinner Monday through Saturday beginning at 4 pm. Weekday lunch service is expected to follow in mid-June.



    King Steak restaurant food spread
      

    Photo by Lauren Holub

    King Steak serves its guacamole with bacon.

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