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    BBQ Switcheroo

    Killen's Barbecue fires up new restaurant in familiar Cypress space

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 22, 2022 | 9:06 am
    Killen's barbecue meat platter with sides
    Killen's Barbecue has the meats.
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma

    A barbecue switcheroo is taking place in Cypress. Killen’s Barbecue will be taking over the space currently occupied by Burro & Bull (25618 Northwest Fwy.), chef-owner Ronnie Killen tells CultureMap.

    Killen, who teased the deal over the weekend on social media, explains that he couldn’t pass on the opportunity to take over a fullyequipped restaurant in a prime location. He expects Burro & Bull to close later this week; once it does, his team will get to work making some minor changes such as installing a cafeteria-style serving line and Killen’s signage. If all goes according to plan with construction and permitting, the new Killen’s Barbecue could open in early October.

    “What sold it for me is there is a Chick-Fil-A under construction [nearby],” he says. “If Chick-Fil-A is going to come out here, I know they do their research. I know several people that own Chick-Fil-As. They know people are going to be there.”

    Although Burro & Bull only opened its Cypress location last fall, founder John Avila tells CultureMap that he and his wife and business partner Veronica had quietly stepped away from operating the restaurant in March. They’re focused on opening a second location of their modern general store Henderson & Kane at the Houston Farmers Market.

    “We’re very lucky that Ronnie took an interest in the building,” he says. “There’s no better person to go into the space, and he will make it work for sure.”

    Cypress will be the third location of Killen’s Barbecue, joining the original in Pearland and a Woodlands location that opened in early 2021. Widely credited with being among the first to bring craft barbecue to the Houston area, Killen’s remains ranked among the state’s 50 best barbecue restaurants by Texas Monthly. It features an extensive menu of proteins that includes beef brisket, pork ribs, beef ribs, and housemade sausage along with Killen’s signature sides such as creamed corn and mac & cheese. Earlier this year, rising star pitmaster Willow Villarreal (Willow’s Texas BBQ, J-Bar-M Barbecue) joined the Killen’s team.

    Part of the reason Killen is so excited about the space is the location’s overall design and layout, which includes a dedicated bar area and spacious patio. The kitchen comes fully equipped with a wood-burning grill and two Southern Pride smokers that Killen may keep — “they work for chicken, ribs, and smoked sausage,” he says — or swap out with an Oyler rotisserie like those he uses at the Killen’s Barbecue’s other locations. Briskets will be prepared on a 1,000-gallon offset smoker — either a trailer-mounter barbecue pit or one from Mill Scale Metal Works, Killen says.

    The wood-burning grill gives the restaurant the ability to serve similar dishes to Killen’s STQ, the chef’s upscale, live-fire steakhouse in Briargrove. Killen plans to introduce a STQ-style dinner service complete with the same elegant table linens and flatware as the original. He describes the hybrid concept of barbecue during the day and steakhouse at night as “Killen’s Barbecue Plus.”

    “We’re going to make it as nice as we can. If we can put linens down, put nice silverware down, and have the whole deal that we do, we’re going to push it as far as we can towards the STQ side,” he says. “Who doesn’t like a good wood-fired grilled steak?”

    [Editor’s note: No one we want to be friends with, chef.]

    Growing his operation to nine Houston-area restaurants — three barbecue restaurants, two Killen’s Steakhouses, STQ, comfort food restaurant Killen’s, Killen’s Burgers, and Killen’s TMX plus barbecue service at both NRG Stadium and Minute Maid Park — has Killen in a reflective mood. He says he realizes how far he’s come from the days when he only operated an under-the-radar steakhouse in Pearland.

    “I get excited about things we’re doing, changes, progress, moving forward. I’m doing all this myself. I don’t have partners,” he says. “When I was in high school I couldn’t read well. My brother was always the smart kid. [I’ve created a business] by hard work and trying to give people what they want. It really makes me feel good.

    “For me, all those people that tried to prove me as being a dumb kid or wouldn’t be successful, my motivation is to prove ‘em wrong.”

    openingsbarbecuenews-you-can-eat
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


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    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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