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    Superica in Houston

    Rumor no more: State of Grace owner brings his brand of Tex-Mex to the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 22, 2017 | 9:00 am

    After a couple of months of rumors and speculation, State of Grace owner Ford Fry has made it official. The native Houstonian-turned-Atlanta-based-restaurateur will open a Tex-Mex restaurant called Superica and a casual seafood-oriented restaurant in the Heights restaurant spaces formerly occupied by Hunky Dory and Bernadine’s.

    Slated to open in the first quarter of 2018, Houston’s Superica will take over Bernadine’s. Fry will expand the seating capacity slightly by incorporating the space currently allocated to the private dining room. Design changes will give both spaces a more casual look that keeps with the Tex-Mex atmosphere without resorting to cliches like pinatas hanging from the ceiling.

    “Whenever we look at a location, it’s always what do we feel like the neighborhood could use. Some people would say Houston could use more Tex-Mex like another mosquito, but I think it’s on another level,” Fry tells CultureMap. “That’s the only way we’d bring it to Texas. Hopefully, we can perform on that other level than what’s out there.”

    Fry created Superica in 2015 with his culinary director Kevin Maxey, a Dallas native who shares Fry’s passion for Tex-Mex. Currently, Fry operates two locations of Superica in Atlanta with another one slated to arrive in Charlotte, North Carolina, in early 2018.

    "It’s kind of a play on Guero’s Taco Bar in Austin but with better food," Fry says. "That Austin vibe and feel, that’s what I really enjoy."

    Diners can expect staples like chips and salsa, tacos, enchiladas, and fajitas that are cooked over mesquite and served with freshly made flour tortillas; the restaurant also offers brunch on the weekends. Of course, patrons will find plenty of cold beer, margaritas, and other tequila-based cocktails to match the cuisine.

    “We try to let the building speak to what it is (design-wise), but the food is going to be more classic and modern Tex-Mex,” Fry says. “Go, hang out, drink margaritas. We’re not going to be like Caracol or anything like that. It’s not fancy, but it’s not cheap Tex-Mex.”

    Superica’s atmosphere will help differentiate it from Houston’s numerous Tex-Mex options. Fry channeled the Hill Country as inspiration for State of Grace’s design, and he wants Superica to have a bit of an Austin vibe that takes advantage of the space’s spacious patios and features live music on the weekends. It’s a family-friendly concept with affordable options, at least based on the prices in Atlanta (enchilada plate under $15, fajitas plates under $30, etc).

    The companion restaurant — which Fry says will include the words “at Superica” in its name to tie it to the overall concept — takes its inspiration from Fry’s childhood trips to the San Jacinto Inn. He recalls meals there that started with raw oysters and cold shrimp before ending with fried chicken.

    “The menu will be fairly simple revolved around raw seafood, fried chicken, kind of a pharmacy-esque burgers,” Fry says. “Maybe I’ll play off the Avalon burger . . . I want to make it towards my memory (of what that tasted like).”

    Overall, Fry says he’s pleased with how Houstonians have responded to State of Grace, but he’s looking forward to opening in the Heights. “I think sometimes River Oaks is polarizing to people from the outside,” he notes. “I’m pretty excited about being in a new area. That’s where I’d probably be if I lived there.”

    Mixed fajitas

    Superica mixed fajitas
    Courtesy photo
    Mixed fajitas
    tex-mexopeningsthe-heights
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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