What's Eric Eating Episode 251

Meet Eculent's mad scientist chef, plus a visit to Greg Gatlin's Southern fried restaurant

The hosts discuss their recent visit to Gatlin's Fins & Feathers.

Photo by Becca Wright

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef David Skinner joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Eculent, his ambitious tasting menu restaurant in Kemah. The conversation begins with Skinner explaining how a successful career in the energy industry paved the way for him to open his experimental restaurant.

Skinner shares the story of how he developed the first version of the restaurant, which featured a dynamic environment with lighting, music, and scents that changed to match the courses. Although the restaurant is considerably less theatrical now, it provides insight into the lengths he goes to provide diners with a memorable experience.

"I started doing a bunch of research and came across Charles Spence...wow, that would be really cool if I could come up with a restaurant where I can change anything at a moment's notice and see what it does," he says. "To me, it was a big-ass experiment that I was on the hook for financially, but I thought this would be interesting, and why not? When the time came, that's what I decided to do."

Listen to the full interview to hear the chef discuss the creative impulses behind one of his signature dishes in detail — a smoke-filled cloche that reveals an edible forest floor of mushrooms, escargot, and greens. Skinner also discusses the game-changing review he received from award-winning Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema.

Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss the news of the week. First, they talk about the closures of places like Nino's, Vincent's, Revival Market, and The Tasting Room. From there, they turn to two restaurants that are working on second locations: d'Alba Craft Kitchen & Cocktails and The Taco Stand.

In the restaurants of the week segment, they pay a visit to Gatlin's Fins & Feathers, Greg Gatlin's new restaurant devoted to chicken and seafood. They also share some thoughts on Brett's BBQ Shop, the Katy restaurant that's currently closed while it moves into a new location.

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Chef David Skinner is this week's guest.

Courtesy of Eculent

Chef David Skinner is this week's guest.

podcasts news-you-can-eat

true to forme

Beard-recognized Houston chef's rooftop restaurant now open in Midtown

Photo by Rebekah Flores

The Branch serves breakfast daily.

A two-time James Beard Award finalist has opened his latest project. The Branch, a new concept from chef Chris Williams, officially opens this Thursday, October 1.

Part of Williams’ Lucille’s Hospitality Group, The Branch is intended to be a wellness-focused concept that utilizes seasonal ingredients and a rotating raw bar. Located on the 12th floor of the Forme, a luxury high-rise at 5501 La Branch, the 20,000-square-foot space offers both dining and lounge spaces along with a rooftop patio. It’s open for breakfast daily along with lunch and dinner Thursday-Sunday.

In the morning, diners may opt for the Harvest Table, a $20, Continental-style breakfast that includes pastries, a yogurt and honey bar, cheese, charcuterie, and fresh fruit. A la carte selections consist of staples such as chilaquiles, avocado and tuna toast, a crab cake Benedict, a Southwest omelet (black beans, corn, and avocado topped with pico de gallo, crema, and arugula salad), and more.

At lunch and dinner, the raw bar menu starts with a daily crudo special, oysters with bourbon mignonette, a tuna toastada, shrimp cocktail, and more. From there, diners turn to the “Fresh & Pressed” section of sandwiches, including Williams’ take on a club, Cuban, and a vegetarian pressed sandwich. Salads, wings, cheese, and charcuterie round out the daytime selections.

They’re paired with a number of house cocktails, beer, and wines by-the-glass. Two desserts complete the experience. Many of the cocktails are low ABV and can be made spirit-free.

Lucille’s Hospitality Group is known for its Southern-inspired Museum District restaurant Lucille’s and Lucille’s 1913, a nonprofit that operates farms that provide access to fresh food in underserved areas.

“We’re excited to partner with The Forme,” Williams said in a statement. “It’s not only an opportunity to utilize our culinary toolkit through room service and an entirely different dining experience across the street from Lucille’s, but it’s also another opportunity to create equity in one of the country’s most dynamic culinary cities. The space itself is truly special, with some of the best views in Houston and a setting unlike anything else in the city. We’re excited to create an experience that complements the neighborhood that has been our home for the past 17 years.”

The Forme is a 33-story high-rise that’s focused on wellness, productivity, and community. In addition to The Branch, its amenities include a 20,000-square-foot fitness and recovery area, a 9,000-square-foot outdoor pool deck with pool and expansive hot tub, and 20,000 square feet of flexible coworking space.

Photo by Rebekah Flores

The Branch serves breakfast daily.