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    Food for Thought

    Giacomo's one lucky dog: The tale of an oil daughter, Florence food & old plates

    Marene Gustin
    Aug 3, 2010 | 9:02 pm
    • Giacomo's cibo e vino is a bright place that finds a Texas girl cooking Tuscanfare.
    • Giacomo's cichette on a plate from La Mora.
    • Giacomo's cichette deserves a closer look.

    The pretty sunshine yellow plates are divided into six neat little areas. Perfect picnic platters for Giacomo’s cibo e vino’s new cichette sampler plate of six different antipasti ($16).

    The only thing is, the plates say La Mora, not Giacomo’s.

    “I found these in my garage apartment and dusted them off,” laughs chef/owner Lynette Hawkins. “People were always asking for a plate with several dishes and I didn’t have a way to keep the sauces from running into each other. When I found these I knew they would be perfect.”

    La Mora Cucina Toscana, of course, was Hawkins’ much-loved restaurant in the heart of Montrose were she served up Tuscan delicacies for 16 years. After a cooking hiatus, she opened Giacomo’s, a modern Venetian wine bar last fall. And the yellow plates aren’t the only thing from La Mora that have made their way to the bright, nearly-year-old eatery, but more on that in a minute.

    First off, what’s a nice Texas girl doing cooking Tuscan fare?

    “My dad was a petroleum engineer,” Hawkins explains. “He moved the family to Florence when I was a baby so I grew up learning to cook Italian.

    “I learned along with mom the simplest of rustic Tuscan recipes taught by kind neighbors, shopkeepers and the young farm girl who kept house for us. In the 1950s and 1960s, the Italians adored Americans. In Florence, their hearts went out to a young American woman, my mom, whose husband was away on long trips most of the time, so she was left alone to fend for herself with her two baby daughters in a country very alien to her.”

    With the help of the Italians, Hawkins learned not only the dishes, but shopping as well. Since there were no supermarkets back then, Hawkins trailed along with her mother each morning to various shops and produce markets, inhaling the sights and smells of Italy. And along the way getting tasty treats that foretold that night’s menu.

    “One of my dad’s colleagues had a family winery and farm in Chianti,” she says. “We used to visit them on weekends, they produced their own Chianti, prosciutto and pecorino cheese. I never forgot these experiences, these flavors.”

    The family moved on to Rome, Paris, Tripoli and London before coming to Houston when Hawkins was 19. But through it all, both she and her mom continued to cook the rustic Tuscan dishes they had grown to love. And, when Hawkins started working in restaurants during her college years (she has a degree in business administration from the University of Houston), she soon realized she could make a living cooking the foods she loved.

    “I remember her when she was the hostess at Damian’s,” says Kathy Heard. “We go way back!”

    So when Hawkins wanted to create Giacomo’s she turned to Heard. That would be Heard of OPEN Restaurant Design who created the cool confines at Sushi King, among others.

    The result was that the old Palazzo’s Trattoria was turned into an airy, comfy, funky spot with a big wall-to-floor chalkboard for daily wine and food specials and a wall of brightly colored trapezoids by artist Rachel Hecker.

    “When we started redesigning,” Heard says, “we realized there wasn’t a square angle in the place. They’re all trapezoids.”

    So the art works works, as do the colors of the pieces. They mirror the vivid hues of the the antipasti platter. Which, since this is a food column, I guess we should get to.

    I adored the turkey tonnato, roasted poultry in a delicate tuna and mayonnaise sauce with capers. And even non-veggie fans will swoon over the roast beet salad with a touch of tarragon, fennel, hazelnuts and a kiss of balsamic vinegar. Or the broccoli with olives, goat cheese and just a pinch of sun dried tomatoes. Oh, and the carrots pickled in Bragg Apple Cider Vinegar are divine.

    “I love Bragg’s,” Hawkins says. “I drink a spoonful every day.”

    OK, back to the other items that have migrated from La Mora to Giacomo’s.

    Check out the wonderful shadow boxes by Susan Hanft that feature Italian motifs with pasta. It’s noodle art worthy of drooling over.

    Oh, and the name of the restaurant? No, it’s not named for Puccini or any other famous Italian Giacomo. Giacomo is the name of Hawkins' beloved blond Labrador.

    And if you don’t believe that an Italian restaurant and wine bar is named for a dog, just look at the friendly puppy photo gallery in the entranceway.

    Yup, that’s Giacomo. Lucky dog.

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    That's Amore!

    Pioneering Mexican chef and chic speakeasy popping up at Houston hotel

    Brianna Griff
    May 23, 2025 | 10:00 am
    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston
    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

    Houston diners won’t need a passport to explore Mexico’s culinary capital next month. On June 16 and 17, Four Seasons Hotel Houston will host From Oaxaca, With Love, a five-course experience that teams celebrated chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca with Oaxaca City cocktail bar Sabina Sabe and agave-spirits producer The Lost Explorer.

    The evening begins with Sabina Sabe bartender Mike Prado greeting diners with a cocktail in Bandista, the hotel’s speakeasy bar and lounge. The libations promise to be divine, with Sabine Sabe currently ranked No. 54 Best Bar in North America, and Bandista sitting at No. 59.

    From there, the party moves into a dining room filled with contemporary works supplied by Oaxaca Serrano Contemporary Art Gallery and underscored by live music.

    Ruiz, whose flagship Casa Oaxaca earned a spot in Mexico’s inaugural Michelin Guide, built his reputation by elevating the dishes he learned as a child cooking alongside his mother on the family farm.

    The chef stays close to his roots with recipes crafted using native ingredients such as chiles, corn, insects, and seeds purchased directly from local producers. Ruiz has long been considered an ambassador of the southern Mexican state — his enfrijoladas caused Noma’s famed Chef Rene Redzepi a moment of rapture.

    For his Houston appearance, diners can expect a true taste of Oaxaca: think a mini tostada topped with heirloom chapulines, chicatanas, and gusanos de maguey (grasshoppers, flying ants, and agave worms); red snapper cured in a bright tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth; and a slow-braised short rib finished in a fruit-laced mole.

    Prado will pair each course with cocktails such as the Pimiento Margarita, combining The Lost Explorer Tobalá mezcal with vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, and lime.

    “It is our great pleasure to welcome chef Alejandro Ruiz and Sabina Sabe to Houston, Texas,” Tom Segesta, Four Seasons Hotel Houston’s general manager, said in a statement. "These dinners, featuring these awarded ambassadors of Oaxacan food and drink, are sure to be enjoyed by our local community and guests from around the world.”

    The pop-up continues the hotel’s ongoing dinner-series format, which has previously spotlighted restaurants ranging from Emeril’s in New Orleans to Employees Only in New York and an Italian-American steakhouse from James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd.

    From Oaxaca, With Love begins at 7 pm on Monday, June 16, and Tuesday, June 17. Seating is limited, with tickets priced at $250 per person plus tax and gratuity. Each reservation will receive a signed English-language copy of Ruiz’s cookbook The Food of Oaxaca: Recipes and Stories from Mexico's Culinary Capital. Reservations are available via OpenTable.

    Those who wish to linger can book the hotel’s Advance Purchase offer, which discounts room rates by up to 25 percent when reserved three or more days ahead.

    The menu features:

    Starter Trio

    • Mini tostada with heirloom insects
    • Zucchini blossom stuffed with ricotta and roasted banana purée
    • Hoja santa “taco” with quesillo, beans, and wild mushrooms

    Green Aguachile

    • Red snapper cured in tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth, Persian cucumber, red onion, cilantro, ginger-toasted peanuts
    • Cocktail: Pequeño Gigante – Madre Cuishe mezcal, hoja santa, ginger, lime, Oaxacan spices

    Tortilla Soup

    • Tomato-pasilla mixe broth, crispy tortillas, fresh cheese, cream, pork cracklings, mint-celery garnish
    • Cocktail: Pimiento Margarita – Tobalá mezcal, Mistela vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, lime

    Braised Short Rib

    • Anchamanteles mole, seasonal fruit relish, banana purée, crispy plantain
    • Cocktail: Agave Xerez – The Lost Explorer tequila, Palomino sherry, green apple, pear

    Textures of Oaxacan

    • Chocolate Mousse, sponge cake, ice cream, tuile, passion-fruit jelly, cacao nibs
    • Neat pour of Tobalá mezcal
    • Traditional water-based hot chocolate infused with cacao flower

    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
      

    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston

    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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