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Mr. Botello Comes to Washington

Acclaimed Brenham barbecue joint picks prime Houston location

Eric Sandler
Jul 28, 2017 | 9:00 am

Truth Barbeque, the Brenham restaurant ranked 10th in the state by Texas Monthly, has picked where it will open its eagerly anticipated Houston location. Only a month after announcing plans to open in the Bayou City, pitmaster-owner Leonard Botello IV tells CultureMap that the rumors are true; he and business partner Johnny Carrabba have signed a lease to open Truth Houston in the former J. Black’s space on Washington Avenue.

“We’ve actually been sitting on it for about six months or so now,” Botello says. “From a business standpoint, with the development going up across the street, I just think it would be a great place to make a footprint in Houston.”

Botello refers to the Buffalo Heights development, a mixed-used complex from CityCentre developer Midway that will include a new H-E-B. Although it will be located along one of Houston's busiest streets, Botello says he plans to preserve as much of the original’s atmosphere as possible.

“We’re going to try to hit it home doing the same thing we did there,” Botello says. “I want people to have the same experience, same music, same vibe. I love the area. I think we’ll be able to knock it out of the park with that place.”

In addition to the building's brief history as a barbecue joint called Phil's BBQ in 2010 and 2011, the space’s size also helped make it the right place to be Truth’s second location. Botello says he’s looking forward to working in a full-size kitchen that will allow him to make the restaurant’s signature sides more efficiently, and he’s working with kitchen architects to create a flow that will help the line move as quickly as possible.

Prioritizing speed will help ensure the restaurant’s lunch business is strong, but Botello says quality comes first. In order to serve meats that match the standard set by the original location, Truth Houston will utilize the same style of offset smokers that Brenham does.

“The last pit I brought here as a prototype for Houston,” Botello says. “I designed that. I tweaked some stuff. I wanted to see what I needed to fix on there so that they’d be fine-tuned machines before we got to Houston.”

Botello wouldn’t say when he thinks the restaurant might open, but he did acknowledge the space shouldn’t require major renovations. Hopefully that speeds the process along. As good as barbecue in Houston has become, the city still has room for a place as committed to quality as Truth.

Leonard Botello IV is bringing his offset smoker to Washington Avenue.

Truth BBQ Leonard Botello IV
Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
Leonard Botello IV is bringing his offset smoker to Washington Avenue.
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news/restaurants-bars

we gotta go

Beard-winning Houston chef shares first details of new Montrose restaurant

Eric Sandler
Jul 13, 2026 | 11:52 am
House of Louie
Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

Houston hospitality veterans Bobby Heugel and chef Justin Yu are sharing more details about House of Louie, their new neighborhood restaurant that’s opening this summer in the former Vibrant space at 1931 Fairview Ave. It’s the duo’s first new restaurant since opening Squable in 2019.

Almost a year after announcing their plans for the project, chef Yu, a James Beard Award winner and Food & Wine Best New Chef honoree, shares in press materials that the restaurant’s name and spirit takes inspiration from an establishment operated by his aunts, Betty Louie and Josephine Yeung, for over 30 years in the Los Angeles area.

“House of Louie was how I fell in love with restaurants. There was a magic there,” Yu said in a statement. “It was always a happy place for me, and for all its guests who came from all around the Los Angeles area to go to it. It was just one of those restaurants where it was exactly what you wanted, when you wanted it, but also a restaurant that gave you more than you expected.”

Yu describes the menu as having a “French-Italian soul” that will also incorporate “the smirk of Modern American cooking,” which allows the chef to sidestep criticisms of whether or not his food is a sufficiently authentic version of those two culinary traditions. As with Theodore Rex, his downtown restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide, dishes at House of Louie will be defined by well-sourced ingredients and delicate saucework.

Meals at the restaurant could begin with dishes such as salads or raw seafood items, including yellowtail alla scapece (cured in chardonnay vinegar) or spot shrimp marinated in Pernod with bergamot and fennel pollen. Pastas, which will be in-house, include a fried lasagna with ragu bianco and Comte cheese fondue. Entrees include roast duck and chicken brined with house-made giardiniera, the spicy topping typically associated with Italian beef sandwiches. Of course, vegetables will be well-represented throughout the menu.

Bobby Heugel, Yu’s partner in the Thorough Fare Co. hospitality group and the founder of bars such as Anvil and Refuge, is overseeing the bar’s cocktail program. Expect martinis galore and seasonal cocktails made with Gulf Coast ingredients. One example is the The Fair View, a riff on the classic Rome with a View made with local roselle hibiscus, Becherovka, dry sherry, and gen tian tea, that’s finished with sparkling wine and pineapple.

The duo aren’t ready to share interior photos, but they describe the renovations as a “simple remake” that enlisted support from local craftspeople including Garnish Design (Milton’s, Tiny Champions), ObjektFab, and Ford Design Finishes. “Just like when you cook a beautiful piece of fish or a carrot that was cared for as it was grown, you do just enough to something beautiful to make it yours,” Yu added.

Joining the project are general manager Tyler Jay Wang, whose resume includes acclaimed Boston establishments No 9 Park and Drink, and executive chef Kirk Thompson, who worked for various Underbelly Hospitality concepts and served as the executive chef at Leo’s River Oaks when it won Best New Restaurant in the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

House of Louie will be open daily for dinner. Friday lunch and weekend brunch service will be added in the future.

House of Louie

Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

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