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    Young Gun Bartender

    Young gun bartender with a good-body philosophy knows what makes a great drink

    Sarah T. Cusack
    Jul 7, 2016 | 11:15 am

    It's after midnight when I sit down at the bar at Anvil, where Alex Negranza, in a red satin bow tie and blue short-sleeved button-down is tending to the dwindling post-fireworks crowd. A man with a loud voice and red shorts is sitting two seats down; he's talking frequently and excitedly to Negranza, asking about Scotches and bourbons and all manner of glassware.

    Suddenly, the man breaks the stem of his champagne flute as he sets it down too roughly. Negranza makes another of the drink that was in it — a new summer addition called the Shuttlecock — and presents it to the man in the red shorts.

    "If you break this one, I'm putting all your drinks in a sippy cup," Negranza says. "I can make a sippy cup happen."

    If you know anything about Alex Negranza, you should believe that. So far, in his 27 years, he's made a lot happen.

    Raised in Modesto, California, the son of a first-generation American of Philippine father and an Irish-English mother, Negranza has traversed his way into Houston through a strange and varied past.

    To wit: in grade school he was a sign language interpreter, a skill he still uses when the bar is too loud to hear; he was a competitive jump-roper, and became a certified jump rope coach who went to jump rope camp every summer; he studied jazz trombone after testing out of high school early; he has been the managing spirits director for coffee website sprudge.com; with $300 and two suitcases, he moved to Seattle at age 18 after deciding he was through studying psychology and music at Fresno State University and Modesto Community College.

    He has been in an independent film called "The Address," which was released last year. He's been a five-time certified judge for the U.S. Barista Championship. SeattleMet.com called him an "event guru." He has been interviewed and profiled a lot for a guy who has three more years before he even hits 30.

    In June, Eater.com named him one of its 2016 Young Guns, and why not? On top of the hodgepodge of accomplishments up to this point, Negranza has settled into what is arguably the best cocktail bar in the country, Anvil Bar & Refuge. Ever the over-achiever, Negranza successfully completed Anvil's notoriously rigorous training program in eight months — a record for the latest iteration of Bobby Heugel's training manual to date. Most trainees take about a year to graduate from the program.

    On the 4th of July, Anvil launched its new seasonal summer menu, a collection of seven cocktails created by the bar staff. Negranza's contribution is the light-green libation the red-shorted man spilled when he broke his glass — the Shuttlecock. Each cocktail has a back story that relates to the bartenders' personal lives.

    "The Shuttlecock is based on, uh, someone everyone thought I was dating," he says. "We were spending a lot of time together for a long time ... and people started asking me about it, and I was like, we're not actually dating — also, he's straight. The joke was, we were going back and forth, and back and forth — so, the shuttlecock is the name for the birdie in badminton."

    Shuttlecock? Not, say, the ping pong ball?

    "There's already a cocktail called the Ping Pong," he says.

    His knowledge about arcane and esoteric spirits and about his craft is encyclopedic, and when two brunette girls with perfect suntans and platform heels saunter in around 1 am asking for Jack & Coke, one patron stifled a giggle. Negranza explains that the only Jack Daniels the bar has is single barrel, barrel-strength, and (just to be clear) it costs $18 a pour. "Do you just want a Tennessee whiskey?" he asks, and offers an alternative.

    The girls acquiesce. "Thanks for telling me," one says.

    The man in the red shorts closes his tab and leaves as Negranza starts shaking a Ramos Gin Fizz. The ice in the cocktail shaker clatters and clatters for what seems like a long time — at Anvil, this drink gets shaken for about eight to 10 minutes. One wonders about the muscles in the bartenders' arms. It's the end of the night and he's working the shaker like a tommy gun. I ask him how his arms feel.

    "They're feeling great. I shake thousands of cocktails every week, but I also go to the gym every day after work."

    Working out

    Again, the overachiever: Negranza gets off work around 3 am and from there, he heads to 24-Hour Fitness. He used to drink more and smoke, but since he moved to Houston, things have changed. Sustainability became a priority.

    "If you think you're tired after a 14-hour shift at the bar, go to the gym, run three miles, lift some weights, and eventually you're not going to be as tired at the end of your shift. And it's better for you as a person," he says.

    Negranza also cites social media's reach and the evolving education of cocktail drinkers as a boon for the industry, but also the reason why bartenders have to step up their game, both mentally and physically.

    "Not only are cocktails more popular and you can have a career (in bartending) for the first time in a century, but because of technology, because of social media, because our customers know we have the knowledge as bartenders to be able to make a hundred — what do we have on our menu, 116 cocktails on our menu — because of that knowledge and that ability, the expectations are higher than they've ever been, which means the demand physically is so much higher than it's ever been."

    His clean living shows. His eyes are bright, he speaks clearly, frankly and is very articulate. He has a spray of freckles across the bridge of his nose and a very slight sun burn. His hair is neatly trimmed; his hands are strong, with clean short nails.

    "Right now, all my eggs are in this basket of bartending, and I have to take care of my body. I have to work out, I need to run. Bartenders can have this decadent lifestyle — you party, you drink for free everywhere you go, you eat for free — it can be so extreme; you've gotta balance it out. The toll we take as bartenders is on our body."

    He notes that healthy living and wellness has become a hot topic for people in the bartending industry lately, on the heels of some uncomfortable epiphanies.

    "A lot of that comes from just seeing some of our mentors wither away. A lot of these people who we watched guide us through this bartending world are tapping out because their bodies can't take it anymore."

    Sticky situations

    The challenges Negranza faces aren't just physical. As an LGBT bartender, he's dealing another set of sticky situations.

    "The bartending world for the most part is driven by one group of people, and that is heterosexual white males. There's a of conversation about females behind the bar — that's a really popular thing, but LGBT is not being talked about right now. Every bar I've ever worked with, there's subtle nuances of homophobia," he says.

    "A lot of times behind the bar I try and strip away whatever my personal identity is. I have this personality that needs to fit your needs. A lot of people might not be comfortable with the sassy gay man I can be, but just like, me as a guy they can have a cocktail with. Which leads to this odd thing where I get more female numbers by far than I do male numbers here, even though we're in the 'gay-borhood' of Montrose.

    "Which is fine. I always thank them, and say, 'Thank you so much, sweetie!' But, I don't call 'em for dinner, that's for sure!"

    Sorry, ladies.

    If you want to say hi to Alex Negranza, you can swing by Anvil most nights. He won't laugh if you order Jack & Coke.

    Alex Negranza poses in front of Anvil before his shift begins.

    Alex Negranza at Anvil
    Photo by Sam Landrum
    Alex Negranza poses in front of Anvil before his shift begins.
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    Food trends

    Halal BBQ is booming in Texas, with Houston making a major contribution

    Associated Press
    Aug 25, 2026 | 4:30 pm
    Levant BBQ
    Levant BBQ
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    At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant in Fort Worth.

    First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

    “I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

    Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

    The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

    "Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

    A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

    Growing Texas trend
    At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

    At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco that's bringing its menu of smoked beef and lamb to Sugar Land in late 2026 or early 2027. Truboy BBQ, which started as a mail order halal barbecue supplier, opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Missouri City last year.

    Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue draws halal diners. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

    “Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

    Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

    “Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

    Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

    More than salt and pepper
    Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

    Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

    Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

    Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

    Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

    Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

    At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

    “My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

    A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

    He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

    On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

    “That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

    “I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

    Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

    'We love barbecue'
    Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

    “It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

    One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

    After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

    For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

    “No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

    ---

    This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

    halalhalal barbecuemuslim communitiespitmastersreligiontexastexas barbecuetrendsculinary traditionsgoldee'sbarbecue
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