Killen's Barbecue Acclaim

Food Network names Killen's to list of Top 5 barbecue joints in the nation — and best in Texas

Killen's Barbecue is already widely acknowledged as the best barbecue joint in the Houston area. Now the rest of the country is starting to notice, too.

Chef Ronnie Killen has already earned praise from GQ magazine critic Alan Richman for his beef rib. On Monday, Top 5 Restaurants, a new show on the Food Network that aims to provide the "definitive lists" on dishes ranging from burgers to steak, added to Killen's acclaim by calling his brisket one of the five best pieces of barbecue in the country.

"I’m very happy with the outcome. To me, being named top 5 is huge, especially to be the only place in Texas. I’m sure Franklin’s has had his time to be No. 1. He can share the spotlight. It’s OK," Killen says.

"Our experts dug through tons of reviews, devoured countless pounds of meat all over the nation, so we can tell you where to find the five best barbecue joints," host Geoffrey Zakarian tells viewers.

The brisket comes in at No. 2 on the list, ahead of such celebrated dishes as the chopped pork at the Skylight Inn in North Carolina, barbecue chicken with white sauce at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Que in Alabama and the burnt ends sandwich at Joe's Kansas City Bar-B-Que. The pork ribs at The Bar-B-Q Shop in Memphis take the top spot.

In the segment, Zakarian cites Killen's three-step brisket preparation as the key to its success, specifically the different grinds of Tellicherry pepper used in the rub. Killen sees the ranking as validation for the hard work he and his team have put in during the restaurant's 16 month existence.

To ensure he had the proper atmosphere on the day of filming, Killen booked a band and gave out beer to people waiting in line. It worked: the restaurant looks great on TV, and enthusiastic fans provide enthusiastic testimonials to the greatness of Killen's brisket.

Of course, it's impossible not to note that Killen's finished ahead of a certain James Beard Award-winning barbecue joint in Austin. Killen has never shied away from saying he aimed to take the best barbecue in Texas title away from Franklin Barbecue; the restaurant even sells T-shirts that read "the best barbecue, period." This show is the first time he's achieved that goal.

"My intention isn’t to say we’re better than Franklin because of one list. On any given day, he could have great stuff and we might not because they’re so many variables to making barbecue," Killen says. "I’m very happy with the outcome. To me, being named top 5 is huge, especially to be the only place in Texas. I’m sure Franklin’s has had his time to be No. 1. He can share the spotlight. It’s OK."

Whether or not all this attention will finally convince Southern Living barbecue columnist Robert Moss to make his way to Houston and update his list of the best barbecue joints in the South remains to be seen, but one thing's for certain. If Killen keeps this up, an enterprising 13-year old is going to make some money waiting in line for people — just like at a certain barbecue joint in Austin.

A behind the scenes look at Ronnie Killen with the Food Network cameras.

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say hey to Hypsi

Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

Photo by Julie Soefer

Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

“My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

“We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

“That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

Photo by Julie Soefer

Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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