foodie news
Polarizing restaurant loses its chef: Goro & Gun gets a kitchen change a few months after opening
It's really not advisable to write restaurant news while hungry. I'm supposed to be telling you about how David Coffman, the former Katsuya chef who helped get Goro & Gun up and running, has left the kitchen of that downtown ramen and wing joint . . . but all I can think about are the last few meals I've enjoyed there.
Goro & Gun — a sort of brick and mortar manifestation of Joshua Martinez's popular food truck, The Modular — has been polarizing ramen aficionados and providing fodder for opinionated Yelpers since it first opened at 306 Main Street in mid-March.
While I can't speak to the authenticity of the noodle thickness, I can attest that my dinner there a week into service proved memorable and delicious: The braised tempura short rib was tender, the spicy scallop carpaccio with bacon-lemonade popcorn was vibrant and we considered a third round of the blistered shishito peppers with soy and mirin.
Goro & Gun has been polarizing ramen aficionados and providing fodder for opinionated Yelpers.
Although the veggie ramen broth was somewhat lacking in flavor, the house-made noodles made up for it (and luckily, I was able to swindle slurps of my table mate's miso ramen).
On a recent weekday, the chili seared tuna salad, served over mixed lettuce, chayote, bean sprout, golden bonito and momiji ponzu, made for a nice, light summer lunch. My friend ordered the pattaya salad with chicken carnitas — also really good. And the cocktail menu, developed by former Pass & Provisions bar manager Alex Gregg, is stand-out.
Eater Houston, which first broke the news about Coffman's departure, reports that the chef "prefers to start restaurants than sustain them" and is "already pondering his next project" after this amicable split with Goro & Gun. Martinez will be manning the kitchen while he looks for a suitable replacement.