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What's Eric Eating Episode 49

Rising star chef dishes on new gig, hot Houston fried chicken spot

CultureMap Staff
Apr 26, 2018 | 4:40 pm

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Brandi Key joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss her new role as Lasco Enterprises' culinary director. The conversation begins with Key sharing her rise through the ranks of Pappas Restaurants before joining Clark Cooper Concepts to open Coppa Ristorante. From there, she worked with the company to open Coppa Osteria, Punk's Simple Southern Food, The Dunlavy, and SaltAir Seafood Kitchen.

In her new role, Key is responsible for overseeing the culinary operations at Lasco's three concepts: Max's Wine Dive, The Tasting Room, and Boiler House in San Antonio. At an intimate dinner last week, Key previewed some of Max's new dishes like sticky pork ribs and a seared tuna poke salad. She describes the overall philosophy of updating the menu.

"What we want to do is give diners an opportunity to have a little more variety. We're not doing anything with the fried chicken," Key says. "But what we want to do to that is bring some diversity to the plate. If you're not craving fried chicken, there's some other things you can attack on the menu and be really excited about."

Prior to Key's interview, local restaurant consultant Nathan Ketcham and Sandler discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Finn Hall's addition of Amaya Coffee, chef Gabriel Medina's departure from Aqui, Grit Grocery's plans to make it easier to shop for healthy food, and GQ magazine including Theodore Rex and Xochi on its list of 2018's best new restaurants. In the restaurant of the week segment, the two men recount a lunch gone wrong at recently-opened Blue Onyx Bistro.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on iTunes or Google Play. Listen to it every Saturday at 11 am on SportsMap 94.1.

Brandi Key is this week's podcast guest.

Brandi Key head shot
Courtesy photo
Brandi Key is this week's podcast guest.
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Beard-winning Houston chef shares first details of new Montrose restaurant

Eric Sandler
Jul 13, 2026 | 11:52 am
House of Louie
Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

Houston hospitality veterans Bobby Heugel and chef Justin Yu are sharing more details about House of Louie, their new neighborhood restaurant that’s opening this summer in the former Vibrant space at 1931 Fairview Ave. It’s the duo’s first new restaurant since opening Squable in 2019.

Almost a year after announcing their plans for the project, chef Yu, a James Beard Award winner and Food & Wine Best New Chef honoree, shares in press materials that the restaurant’s name and spirit takes inspiration from an establishment operated by his aunts, Betty Louie and Josephine Yeung, for over 30 years in the Los Angeles area.

“House of Louie was how I fell in love with restaurants. There was a magic there,” Yu said in a statement. “It was always a happy place for me, and for all its guests who came from all around the Los Angeles area to go to it. It was just one of those restaurants where it was exactly what you wanted, when you wanted it, but also a restaurant that gave you more than you expected.”

Yu describes the menu as having a “French-Italian soul” that will also incorporate “the smirk of Modern American cooking,” which allows the chef to sidestep criticisms of whether or not his food is a sufficiently authentic version of those two culinary traditions. As with Theodore Rex, his downtown restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide, dishes at House of Louie will be defined by well-sourced ingredients and delicate saucework.

Meals at the restaurant could begin with dishes such as salads or raw seafood items, including yellowtail alla scapece (cured in chardonnay vinegar) or spot shrimp marinated in Pernod with bergamot and fennel pollen. Pastas, which will be in-house, include a fried lasagna with ragu bianco and Comte cheese fondue. Entrees include roast duck and chicken brined with house-made giardiniera, the spicy topping typically associated with Italian beef sandwiches. Of course, vegetables will be well-represented throughout the menu.

Bobby Heugel, Yu’s partner in the Thorough Fare Co. hospitality group and the founder of bars such as Anvil and Refuge, is overseeing the bar’s cocktail program. Expect martinis galore and seasonal cocktails made with Gulf Coast ingredients. One example is the The Fair View, a riff on the classic Rome with a View made with local roselle hibiscus, Becherovka, dry sherry, and gen tian tea, that’s finished with sparkling wine and pineapple.

The duo aren’t ready to share interior photos, but they describe the renovations as a “simple remake” that enlisted support from local craftspeople including Garnish Design (Milton’s, Tiny Champions), ObjektFab, and Ford Design Finishes. “Just like when you cook a beautiful piece of fish or a carrot that was cared for as it was grown, you do just enough to something beautiful to make it yours,” Yu added.

Joining the project are general manager Tyler Jay Wang, whose resume includes acclaimed Boston establishments No 9 Park and Drink, and executive chef Kirk Thompson, who worked for various Underbelly Hospitality concepts and served as the executive chef at Leo’s River Oaks when it won Best New Restaurant in the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

House of Louie will be open daily for dinner. Friday lunch and weekend brunch service will be added in the future.

House of Louie

Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

Pasta and cold seafood will be on the menu at House of Louie.

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