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    More National Love

    2 Houston hot spots light up GQ's coveted best new restaurants list

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 23, 2018 | 11:40 am

    GQ magazine has named two Houston restaurants to its list of the 13 Best New Restaurants in America for 2018. Congratulations to Xochi, Hugo Ortega's Oaxacan restaurant in downtown's Marriott Marquis hotel, and to Theodore Rex, Justin Yu's bistro-inspired follow-up to Oxheart.

    Critic Brett Martin writes that he visited 75 restaurants in 18 cities to compile the list, which consists of establishments that have opened in the last 12 to 18 months. Other notable entries include Majordōmo, celebrity chef David Chang's Korean-inspired restaurant in Los Angeles; The Charter Oak, a more casual concept from three Michelin-star chef Christopher Kostow; and June Baby, the highly acclaimed Southern restaurant in Seattle from chef Edouardo Jordan.

    Of course, the two Houston restaurants feature plenty of chef firepower of their own, courtesy of the city's two most recent James Beard Award winners for Best Chef: Southwest.

    "It's those multidimensional moles I keep returning to," Martin writes about his experience at Xochi. "'All those famous French sauces?' my enthusiastic companion raved. 'These kick all of their asses.' It was hard for me to disagree."

    As for Theodore Rex, Martin writes that he's impressed by its relaxed atmosphere and the precise flavors Yu coaxes from his ingredients. Perhaps the biggest surprise is that his favorite dish is sweet rather than savory.

    "But until he returns to tasting menus, I'll focus instead on his simple Paris-Brest: two rings of pâte à choux sandwiching a pillow of barnyardy Swiss-cheese pastry cream and burnt honey," Martin writes. "I crave it more than any other dessert I ate this year."

    Xochi is one of GQ's Best New Restaurants.

    Xochi entrance Hugo Ortega Tracy Vaught
    Courtesy photo
    Xochi is one of GQ's Best New Restaurants.
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    One Day Only

    Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

    Eric Sandler
    May 12, 2026 | 5:00 pm
    Josephine's crawfish Lucas McKinney
    Photo by Quit Nguyen
    Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

    The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

    Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

    • Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
    • Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
    • Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
    • Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

    The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.


    LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

    “Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

    McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

    “With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

    LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

    “It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

    Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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