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    First Look At Hot New Restaurant

    First look: Brasserie 19 owners go for "relaxed elegance" at Houston's hottest new restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 17, 2015 | 9:47 am

    Asked to define SaltAir Seafood Kitchen, the fifth restaurant from Brasserie 19/Coppa Osteria owners Clark/Cooper Concepts, co-owner Grant Cooper doesn't hesitate.

    "SaltAir is essentially a seafood restaurant that takes a culinary journey through the energy and lifestyle of California, a West Coast style of living." Later, he adds, "The whole idea of SaltAir is that you’ve been out in the sun. You’ve been enjoying the California lifestyle. If you’ve been to Cabo, you’ve got that sun-kissed feeling on your skin, you’ve got that salt in the air that’s on your body. You go home, you clean up, you go out to a nice dinner."

    "SaltAir is essentially a seafood restaurant that takes a culinary journey through the energy and lifestyle of California, a West Coast style of living."

    Formerly the home of Pesce and Brio, the 9,000 square foot space at the corner of West Alabama and Kirby has been completely transformed with a theme of that Cooper calls "relaxed elegance." Just past the entrance, a large U-shaped bar dominates the room.

    To the left, a small, lounge-style dining room offers some of the bar's energy but with table seating. The main dining room sits behind the bar and offers a view of the open kitchen. A nearby sunroom offers lots of natural light and a view of Kirby's bustling scene. Cooper says they deliberately chose to avoid any of the hallmarks of typical seafood restaurant design for SaltAir's interior.

    "To me, corporate, cheesy restaurants — and I don’t mean that in a bad way — are overly thematic," Cooper says. "If I walk into a seafood restaurant, I don’t need an aquarium to hit me at the front door to let me know I’m in a seafood restaurant or a big display of seafood. I’m not saying that doesn’t work (at other places) — but not for what we’re trying to do."

    By design, the bar gives SaltAir a high energy central point and sets the stage for the overall experience. Even at 6 pm on a Wednesday, a crowd of well-dressed future regulars had already arrived to sip cocktails and snack on plates of cold seafood. Eventually, groups of friends make their way to tables in the various dining rooms where they start ordering main entrees and taking advantage of Clark/Cooper's signature wine prices that are sometimes below retail. This movement within the restaurant is exactly what Cooper says he intended for SaltAir.

    "It’s kind of an old school thing, but we’re doing it our way. It’s what I think the dining experience should be. Enjoy the whole palate as far as not only the food but also the whole dining experience throughout the restaurant."

    California vibe, global seafood

    SaltAir doesn't look like a typical seafood restaurant, and that commitment to being different extends to the menu. Chef Brandi Key worked with Cooper and co-owner/chef Charles Clark on a deliberately international approach to sourcing and flavors. "The majority of seafood restaurants in Houston are kind of the same," she says. "They have that theme behind them. Maybe not in decor but in using Gulf Coast seafood. And we use it. I’m not not using Gulf Coast seafood, but it’s packaged in a way that’s a little surprising, you know? It’s a different style than we’ve seen so far."

    Entrees are served a la carte, but diners are encouraged to pair them with one or more of the 13 vegetable dishes that Key has created.

    That approach begins at the raw bar, which features a selection of raw oysters, crudos and other cold preparations. Exact varieties are listed on a chalkboard menu that hangs over the kitchen and in a supplemental menu that's printed every day. While sister concept Brasserie 19 also features raw dishes, Key notes that SaltAir's approach is very different from that restaurant's French-style approach.

    "This is a little more aggressive, because we have so many other options that we can use for crudos, ceviches and other types of raw items. It’s new to our company. We haven’t done anything like this before, but at the same respect, it’s my favorite part of the entire restaurant," Key says. "I want people to see the size of tuna that we’re cutting into cubes and making tartare with, because it really kind of sets the tone for who we are with this concept. Raw seafood and cold seafood done right is one of the most refreshing things I think you can eat."

    The portions on dishes like hamachi crudo with sweet onion, Asian pear and shaved foie gras are generous enough to be split between two people, or one person could order a couple for a light meal. Similarly, dishes such as clam fries and calamari, both of which feature a light, crispy batter, are heartier appetizers for the table that serve as a preface to center of plate entrees such as redfish 1/2 shell with Moroccan spices and salsa verde. Land lovers may choose from lamb chops, Cornish hen or beef filet.

    Entrees are served a la carte, but diners are encouraged to pair them with one or more of the 13 vegetable dishes that Key has created. Rather than simple sides, Key describes the mix of hot and cold vegetables, grains and starches as standalone dishes with flavors that complement or contrast with the entrees. "I’ve got farmers I’m working with here and other places, hydroponics, things that are the best you can get and letting that be a dish on its own," she says.

    For example, rather than serve simple mashed potatoes, SaltAir's smashed potatoes are boiled in salty water and aromatics, then crisped and smashed by hand. "You get the best of both worlds: crunchy skin, cooked all the way through with a little bit of lemon, olive oil and herbs, rosemary, salt and call it a day," Key says.

    "This has been the most fun menu to write," she adds later. "We’ve had almost two years of going back and forth, trading pictures and what about this, what about that. It’s just — seafood’s fun."

    Judging by the packed house and happy faces on Wednesday night, SaltAir's diners are having fun, too. Even with competition from other high-quality seafood restaurants like Holley's and Peska, SaltAir is already winning fans.

    Really liked SaltAir. I think Clark/Cooper have a big hit on their hands.

    — Alison Cook (@alisoncook) July 16, 2015

    I do, too.

    SaltAir's U-shaped bar sets the tone for the restaurant's dining experience.

    SaltAir Seafood Kitchen
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    SaltAir's U-shaped bar sets the tone for the restaurant's dining experience.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Trend News

    America's hottest food trend is going bananas in Houston

    Teresa Gubbins
    Sep 7, 2026 | 4:00 pm
    Banana dessert and latte
    Photo by Vinn Koonyosying on Unsplash
    Banana dessert and latte.

    After centuries of being taken for granted, the everyday banana is having its moment. This tropical fruit, long prized for its rugged built-in packaging, has emerged on the foodie front as the viral It Flavor, surfacing in some unexpected food and drink, and acquiring the sacred ranking of "buzzy."

    In the past two years, banana has risen from lunchbox staple to starring role in upscale desserts, cocktails, and even coffee drinks. That ascent just officially peaked with its debut as a Starbucks flavor for fall '26, appearing in two beverages inspired by freshly baked banana bread: Iced Banana Bread Latte and Iced Banana Bread Chai, available through the fall season and beyond.

    When you've scored a flavor designation from Starbucks, you have arrived — and will be embraced by every other coffee chain, from banana bread cold brew at 7 Brew to banana cold foam at PJ's Coffee of New Orleans to banana cold foam at Dunkin'.

    According to menu research company Technomic, banana-flavored specials have surged by 70 percent in 2026. Banana bread is being hailed as an “extra hot” trend; after steadily rising since 2024, the flavor has surpassed pumpkin spice over the last two years in online searches.

    Old school banana
    Banana is hardly new to the dessert world, ruling in classics like bananas Foster, banana bread, banana pancakes, and banana pudding — a dessert that's been championed by Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn, whose passion for the pudding has helped get it on the menu of pretty much every barbecue restaurant across Texas.

    "I love banana pudding because of the payoff it provides for such a simple recipe," Vaughn says. "Banana pudding requires just three basic elements: The pudding, fresh banana slices, and some sort of cookie, most popularly Nilla wafers. Layer them in the right order, and you'll get layers of textural variation and different intensities of sweetness from each layer."

    Vaughn acknowledges that most barbecue joints have added banana pudding.

    "Yes, the popularity of banana pudding has grown a bit, but more importantly the banana pudding gets greater attention from barbecue fans and the pitmasters who make it," he says. "The artificial flavors of boxed banana-flavored pudding are nearly extinct, thankfully, so the flavor comes from real bananas."

    Using "better" banana is a big factor in its newfound popularity, says chef Casey La Rue, co-founder of La Rue Doughnuts in Dallas and Frisco. La Rue, who worked in top fine-dining restaurants for years, has witnessed the evolution of banana from not hot to ultra hot first-hand.

    “Banana used to be a difficult flavor because people associated it with artificial candy, overly sweet syrups, and that fake-banana taste," La Rue says. "Now chefs and coffee shops are using real banana, roasted banana, and more balanced combinations with coffee, caramel, chocolate, and spice."

    "It still feels nostalgic and familiar, but the flavor is finally being treated with more restraint and sophistication," he says. "People didn’t suddenly start liking banana — they started getting better versions of it.”

    Terrible Love Trrble Latter Terrible Love's Trrble Latte adds banana and chocolate syrups, whipped cream, and crumbled Nilla Wafers. Photo courtesy of Terrible Love

    Banana in coffee
    Another major influence behind the boffo banana comes from the growing popularity in the U.S. of Asian cuisine — tied specifically to banana-flavored milk, an iconic drink introduced by Korean food & beverage company Binggrae in 1974. Sold in a cute little bottle, it's a childhood staple for generations of Koreans, who were the first to add banana as a flavor to coffee drinks — inspiring Starbucks as well as Coffee Mate and Califa Farms, who both just came out with banana-flavored coffee creamers.

    Banana in coffee is now everywhere. Every coffee shop across Texas has a banana latte of some kind: Cafe Duro in Dallas, Smoking Tiger Korean bakery in Carrollton, Bruvana Coffee House in Flower Mound. Cafe Carola, new in Houston, serves a banana bread latte with their own house-made banana purée. Bright Coffee in San Antonio does a popular banana milk latte with espresso and banana sauce they make in house. Terrible Love in Austin features banana in its signature Trrbl Latte, with banana & chocolate syrups, whipped cream, and Nilla wafer crumbles. Matcha shops like Kissa Matcha in Grand Prairie are on the bandwagon, adding banana to their matcha lattes.

    banana sundae hai hospitality hai for her Banana sundae from Uchi and Uchiko. Photo by Hai Hospitality

    Banana manana
    The banana latte trend has spawned a banana rebound in other food groups, like the new banana bread pudding M&Ms and the banana-Nutella bundtlet from Nothing Bundt Cakes. Sonic is all in with a banana pudding shake, banana-pudding soft-serve (blended with vanilla wafer crumbles), and banana pudding cream slush, combining vanilla soft serve with banana flavor and ice.

    Habaneros Fresh Mex Cantina in Fort Worth just added banana pudding soft serve; owner Lawrence Caldwell says it's already a smash hit. Austin plant-based restaurant Fabrik recently featured banana creatively in its summer menu with a banana miso mousse with roasted banana compote. Hai Hospitality — whose restaurants Uchi and Uchiko have always been "fruit-forward" — recently whipped up a banana sundae for a charity event in Houston combining banana sorbet with coconut, caramel, plantains, and brûléed banana.

    La Rue Doughnuts has had banana on the menu for three months in a row; their September menu features a chocolate-banana-almond croissant, and in August, they did a banana cream pie doughnut.

    "My whole life, guests have said they hated banana desserts," La Rue says. "If guests saw a menu prior to dinner and it had banana, they'd request a different dessert. Now, the No. 1 selling items at our shops are all banana."

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