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    8 things to know

    8 things to know about Houston food right now: openings, closings, and a major chef change

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 23, 2018 | 9:02 am

    A major chef change tops this week’s news. Montrose restaurant Aqui and chef de cuisine Gabriel Medina have parted ways, CultureMap has learned.

    General manager Steven Lo confirmed Medina’s departure but politely declined to comment on the circumstances. Medina has yet to respond to CultureMap’s request for comment about the situation or what his future plans might be.

    Chef-owner Paul Qui, who is still awaiting trial on charges for domestic assault stemming from an incident in March 2016, and former Kuneho chef de cuisine Mia Li are spending more time at the restaurant in the wake of Medina’s departure, according to Lo. Sous chef Niki Vongthong and CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Pastry Chef of the Year winner Jill Bartolome are still with the restaurant.

    Medina, who came to Aqui after successful stints at Kata Robata, Soma Sushi, and acclaimed Tokyo restaurant Narisawa (among others), helped lead Aqui to widespread acclaim, including a four-star review from Chronicle critic Alison Cook and a nomination for Medina as one of the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Rising Star Chefs of the Year. The New York Times reported that Aqui would have been nominated for the country’s Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Awards if not for Qui’s assault charges.

    MidiCi, the California-based Neapolitan pizza chain, has closed its Greenway Plaza/Upper Kirby location at 2925 Richmond Ave. after less than a year in business. Although the space still has its equipment and furniture, the restaurant has been removed from the company's website and its Facebook page has disappeared. Locations in Katy and Pearland remain open.

    Che Inka, a Peruvian and Argentinian restaurant in Rice Military, recently closed. Despite generally positive reviews, a "For Lease" sign now hangs above the space at 5535 Memorial Dr. Argentina Cafe, the restaurant's sister concept in the Galleria area, remains open.

    River Oaks residents with a taste for General Tso's chicken take note: Cafe Ginger has moved to its new home at 1574 W. Gray. The popular Chinese restaurant moved approximately half a mile to make way for The Driscoll at River Oaks, Weingarten Realty's 30-story residential tower that will be built on the site. Cafe Ginger will be BYOB at its new location until it receives its liquor license.

    Houston's second Velvet Taco opened quietly last month at 907 Westheimer Rd. The Dallas-based restaurant is known for its creative tacos, loaded tater tots, and rotisserie meats. With a two-story space, late night hours (open until 4 am on Friday and Saturday), and casual atmosphere, it's a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

    Memorial-area favorite Leibman’s Eatery, Market, and Gifts (formerly Leibman's Wine & Fine Foods) has reopened in its new location at 10100 Katy Freeway. Although smaller than the Memorial Drive store it replaces, the new Leibman’s still features the same wine, gifts, and deli that has made it a neighborhood staple for almost 40 years.

    Owner Sharon Leibman, the daughter of founders Ettiene and Ralph Leibman, has expanded the deli’s selection and seating area to allow for dining during breakfast, lunch, and dinner. While some items are new, signature dishes like the chicken salad Afrique and Gone In a Minute dip are still available and made with their classic recipes.

    Popular Italian restaurant Grazia Italian Kitchen has opened its third Houston-area location in Katy at 22764 Westheimer Pkwy., the restaurant announced on Facebook. Currently open for dinner only, lunch and brunch services will begin in May. Expect the same pizzas, pastas, steaks, and seafood items that have made the restaurant successful at both its Pearland and Clear Lake locations — including the award-winning smoked short ribs and risotto.

    Creamistry, a California-based chain that serves ice cream made with liquid nitrogen, will open its third Houston-area location in Friendswood at 211 W. Eldorado Blvd., Ste. D. The new location will join outposts near the Galleria and in the Memorial area when it opens in May.

    MidiCi's pizzas have left Greenway Plaza.

    MidiCi margherita pizza
    Courtesy photo
    MidiCi's pizzas have left Greenway Plaza.
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    What's eric eating episodes 513 and 514

    Beard Award-winning chef and family dish on their new Houston restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 21, 2025 | 1:43 pm
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, his wife and business partner Tracy Vaught, and their daughter Sophia Ortega join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss H-Town Restaurant Group. The company operates a number of local concepts, including interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, Backstreet Cafe, Mexican street food eatery Urbe, and Zaranda, the company’s newly opened restaurant in downtown that’s inspired by California.



    After a brief discussion of the early days of Hugo’s, the trio dives into the process of opening Zaranda. Vaught explains how she became aware of the space in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower and why it’s proximity to Discovery Green made it particularly appealing. Chef Ortega shares how a three-week road trip throughout Mexico provided some of the inspiration for both Zaranda and Caracol, his Galleria-area seafood restaurant.

    From there, chef Ortega describes how the zaranda — a wire metal basket used to cook seafood over an open flame — anchors much of the menu. He also recommends some dishes diners should try when they visit Zaranda.

    Sandler asks Sophia Ortega what it’s like working with her parents. “I get that comment a lot. It is very different. A lot of people can’t imagine working with family,” she says.

    “For me, I’m an only child. We’re a very close family unit. The restaurants have been a huge part of my growing up. For us, it comes very naturally to work together. It’s all we know. I’ve only ever worked for my restaurants. A lot of the employees have seen me grow up. I think we all have our own lane, but at the same time we overlap. We’re always open to hearing different opinions. That’s when the best decisions are made. I love it.”

    “Sophia is very intuitive. The way she communicates is very thoughtful and sensitive. I think that’s so valuable for our staff. Everybody loves her,” Vaught adds.



    Listen to the full episode for an update on Backstreet Cafe. Its original building was torn down last year to make way for an all-new structure that’s on track to open next year — hopefully in time for its legendary Mother’s Day brunch. Sandler also asks about the restaurant group’s conspicuous omission from the Michelin Guide.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson, the proprietor of newly-open wine shop Montrose Grocer, discuss the news out of the week. They begin with a discussion about the Houston Chronicle’s list of the city’s top 100 restaurants, including a discussion of Aga’s as the No.1 selection, some of the new entries on the list, and restaurants that dropped off the list entirely, such as Himalaya, Kata Robata, and Killen’s Barbecue. They also talk about Bari Ristorante opening a new location in The Woodlands and restaurateur Brian Doke’s plans to open Lazy Lane restaurant in Garden Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Maison Chinoise. Located next to Brasserie 19 in the River Oaks Shopping center, the new Chinese restaurant is the latest project from Dallas-based Lombardi Family Concepts, known locally for Toulouse Cafe and Bar, its French restaurant in River Oaks District, and Lombardi Cucina Italiana in Uptown Park.

    Listen to the episode to hear which dishes they liked best, as well as the one that missed the mark. They also discuss its decor and how it will fit with the other luxurious restaurants in the shopping center.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

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