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    Celeb Spotting

    Rick Bayless makes the most of a forced Houston layover: Celebrity chef roars through town

    Whitney Radley
    Whitney Radley
    Jan 22, 2013 | 3:11 pm

    Celebrity chef Rick Bayless and his crew made a stop in Houston on Sunday en route to Oaxaca, Mexico to film Season Nine of Mexico: One Plate at a Time — but foggy local conditions led to a canceled flight.

    Rather than lie around and lament his forced layover, Bayless used the opportunity to check in on the local plant that processes his Frontera Salsa and to do what Houstonians know how to do best: Eat.

    And since Bayless wasn't able to make it to Mexico proper, he made a stop at chef Hugo Ortega's namesake restaurant, where he sampled regional specialties like Lechón (achiote-rubbed tender suckling pig with crisp skin and habanero salsa), Cachetes de Res (beef cheeks with salsa de pasilla), Cochito con Mole Xico (braised pork shoulder, mashed plantains and pasilla-dried plum sauce from Veracruz), Chipotle Chocolate Cake and much more.

    And since Bayless wasn't able to make it to Mexico proper, he made a stop at chef Hugo Ortega's namesake restaurant.

    "Hugo and Rick have met before, many years ago, at Rick's restaurant in Chicago, and they saw and spoke with one another again last year at the James Beard Awards in NYC," Paula Murphy, a spokesperson for Hugo's, tells CultureMap.

    Ortega gave Bayless a tour of the kitchen and a copy of his cookbook; Bayless graciously posed for photographs with staff and called Ortega "[o]ne of the US best Mex chefs, super generous, great guy."

    The noted chef also sampled the culinary offerings at another Lower Westheimer eatery during his surprise Houston stay.

    Thanks @rick_bayless for coming by @underbellyhou tonight. It was a pleasure and honor to meet you.

    — Chris Shepherd (@cshepherd13) January 22, 2013

    For his part, Bayless praised the restaurant's charcuterie tasting and its "chix-fried chix livers," but claimed that the Korean braised goat and dumplings were the "biggest hit."

    Celebrity chef Rick Bayless was stuck in Houston Sunday and Monday.

    Rick Bayless, chef, cook
    Courtesy photo
    Celebrity chef Rick Bayless was stuck in Houston Sunday and Monday.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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