What's Eric Eating Episode 177

Meet Liberty Kitchen's stately chef, plus hidden sushi in The Galleria

Chef Justin Yoakum is this week's guest.

Photo by Meagan Ulbrich

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Justin Yoakum joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss his career. Since 2019, the native Houstonian has served as executive chef and culinary director for Culinary Khancepts, the local hospitality group behind State Fare Kitchen & Bar and Liberty Kitchen.

Yoakum joined Culinary Khancepts after it acquired State Fare from Cherry Pie Hospitality. The company added Liberty Kitchen last year. Sandler notes that the two restaurants share a co-founder and offers his opinion that they have similarly culinary perspectives. Now that the establishments have the same owner, Sandler asks Yoakum what he'd doing to draw a more clear distinction between them.

"We circled back on what is their identity and who do we want them to be. [Whatever] that is, we want them to be the best version of that," Yoakum explains. "After talking to the owner, he wanted [Liberty] to be elevated coastal cuisine, not so much focused on the Southern side. He wants them to have really great brunches but more of a Hamptons-style brunch versus a Southern-style brunch . . . That's what we've been striving for."

Prior to the interview, Avondale Food & Wine owner Mary Clarkson joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the restaurants opening in 2021 that they're most excited about; private equity firm Peak Rock Capital's purchase of Shipley Do-Nuts; and proposed legislation that would allow Texas restaurants to sell alcohol to-go forever.

In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share first impressions of Hidden Omakase, the upscale sushi restaurant that recently opened near the Galleria. Listen to hear whether they would choose chef Billy Kin's 12-course, $150 tasting menu over similar offerings from restaurants like MF Sushi and Kata Robata.

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Big Burger Deal

New owner plans thoughtful growth for Texas burger chain Hopdoddy

Hopdoddy/Facebook

It sounds like growth is coming for Hopdoddy Burger Bar.

Austin-born chain Hopdoddy Burger Bar is now under new ownership. Founders Table Restaurant Group has acquired the burger business and aims to apply its "robust non-traditional licensing program" as it grows, a press release says.

Hopdoddy was founded in 2010 and now has 47 locations across the U.S., including more than 30 in Texas and 10 across the Houston area. It combines a fast-casual atmosphere with a gourmet ethos, serving burgers piled high with specialty ingredients like goat cheese, roasted tomatoes instead of slices, habaneros, and a variety of sauces. Non-beef patties are another specialty, including chicken, ahi tuna, and vegetable patties.

Founders Table has more than 200 restaurants across 18 states in its portfolio. Those include Protein Bar & Kitchen, Chopt, Dos Toros, and Field Trip. According to a press release, each of its brands emphasizes regional development.

Restaurant Business reported that the company would "continue to target non-traditional venues, including healthcare, education and transportation centers." That could mean that diners can expect to see more Hopdoddy locations in non-traditional spaces. The release does confirm that the acquisition means growth is coming.

"Hopdoddy is a standout brand with all the ingredients we look for: a differentiated concept, passionate guest loyalty, and a commitment to quality that resonates across markets," says Founders Table CEO Nick Marsh in the release. "We strongly believe in the power of the Founder's Table platform to accelerate growth, and this partnership marks an exciting step forward as we help Hopdoddy scale thoughtfully while staying true to the guest experience at the heart of the brand.”

Hopdoddy CEO Jeff Chandler will transition to an advisory role, ending 10 years in the top position. In February of this year, Chandler told Restaurant Business that he hoped to 14-16 new locations per year sometime after 2029. At the time, the brand was owned by private equity firm L Catterton. Harrington Park Advisors advised Hopdoddy on the transition.

Kenny Jett, formerly VP of operations, will become Hopdoddy's president.

"I've had the privilege of seeing firsthand what makes this brand so special — from our incredible team members to the loyal guests who support us every day," says Jett in the release. "I'm honored to step into this role and excited to build on the strong foundation we've created as we continue growing the brand."

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