Random thoughts on a chilly day
The two best runway shows at New York fashion week (so far) are.....
The Donna Karan fall collection includes sexy gowns in addition to many jackets.Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Donna Karan, in a cutaway jacket, acknowledged the audience as the WhitneyHouston song, "I'm Every Woman," played in the background.Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Prabal Gurung's collection starts in a dark mood but sees the white light.Photo by Thomas Concordia/WireImage
NEW YORK — This week more than 350 designers are showing their fall 2012 collections, which tends to make audiences bleary-eyed and very forgetful. At previous February fashion weeks, I've lost a cell phone, dozens of notebooks and more sweaters, caps and mittens than I can remember.
With temperatures below freezing much of this fashion week, I have already misplaced a cap and two gloves. I wish they made mittens that snap to an overcoat for adults. I'd be the first in line.
Walking into howling winds near the Hudson River, racing to an obsure fashion show in an obscure location, made me wonder, why does Houston gets such a bad rap about its climate? I'd much rather sweat in the summer than freeze in the winter.
But ever so often, there is a fashion show that makes me temporarily forget such frigid thoughts and marvel at what I've seen. This season, it's happened twice so far.
Donna Karan: Women are doin' it for themselves
Karan believes every woman should have at least one power jacket in her closet, so she sent out lots of variations.
Donna Karan has always been a strong proponent of strong fashion for strong women. In her new collection for fall, she sent out a powerful collection that combines masculine and feminine styles, with touches of Cabaret and Downton Abbey.
The first look set the tone: An androgynous model in a sharp charcoal pinstripe suitdress with padded shoulders walked confidently down the runway. Karan believes every woman should have at least one power jacket in her closet, so she sent out lots of variations in colors of shiny scarlet, bright red and charcoal pinstripe. For evening wear, she featured jackets of black sequin, crepe satin and lurex tinsel.
At the end of the show Karan acknowledged the audience in a pinstripe cutaway jacket as Whitney Houston's "I'm Every Woman" played on the sound system. It was the first fashion week tribute to the singer who died tragically in Los Angeles over the weekend. The song is a universal power anthem for women; I spotted Vogue magazine editor Anna Wintour clapping her hands in time to the music as the models made their final runway walk.
Also mixed in the collection were gowns for the woman who wants to bare her feminine side. Karan featured a "stretch illusion dress" that covers the back and arms with tulle that provides some cover-up but is revealing at the same time. (It's a trend that has been spotted on the runway of other major designers, too.)
And she mixed in a couple of crisp white blouses that can be worn with just about anything.
Before showing the main collection, Karan sent out a dozen looks from her Casual Luxe collection of tough girl motorcycle jackets, tartan plaid skirts and flannel blazers for the younger customer who wants to exhibit a strong attitude, too.
The Houston connection
As one of a handful of Donna Karan Ambassadors selected from across the United States for their stylish philanthropy, Sheridan Williams attended the show, wearing a pale blue Karen wool suit with detachable fur accents. At a luncheon beforehand, she was recognized as a founding ambassador and asked to pick an additional representative from Houston to join the group. She selected public relations specialist Dancie Ware, who is active in Houston's charitable world.
Sheridan Williams selected Dancie Ware to join her as a Donna Karan Ambassador, a group that combines philanthropy and fashion.
The group will gather at an annual conference of women organized by Karan, where topics will include the link between philanthropy and fashion. Karan has done a lot of earthquarke relief work in Haiti and her spring/summer collection, on its way to stores now, is based on the work of Haitian artists.
Williams also enlisted Karan to contribute a recipe to a new cookbook that encourages children to eat healthy foods. Proceeds from sales of the book will benefit M.D. Anderson Cancer Center.
Prabal Gurung: Discovering the dark side
Outside of the insular fashion world, Prabal Gurung isn't a well-known designer. He's been showing at fashion week for only three years. But his collections just keep getting better.
Prabal Gurung went from dark and moody to a touch of heaven.
In front of an eclectic crowd that included actress Zoe Saldana and Internet tycoon Arianna Huffington, Gurung showed an intriguing collection that crossed over from dark and moody — the first 10 looks were all-black followed by a liquid silk prints of blue steer skills — to a touch of heaven. The ending look was an intricate white gown embroidered in gold and ostrich feathers.
Several of the gowns — in black or white — have Oscar red carpet written all over them for the actress who wants to take a chance. Are you listening, Rooney Mara?
