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    7 things to know

    7 things to know in Houston food right now: Reopenings, closings, and $1 Ninfaritas

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 18, 2020 | 3:30 pm

    Editor's note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

    Re-openings and closings

    Clark Cooper Concepts has switched things up again. Just a few weeks after reopening The Dunlavy for dine-in service, the company has temporarily closed the restaurant for daily service. However, groups of 20-50 people may utilize the chandelier-adorned space for private dinners.

    On a more positive note, those who prefer meals that include bivalves and bubbles will be cheered by the news that Brasserie 19 has resumed weekday lunch service. The company’s River Oaks mainstay now opens at 11 am Tuesday - Sunday.

    Chefs on the move

    Brennan’s of Houston has a new executive chef. Joey Chavez comes to Houston from Baltimore, where he served as executive chef of The Bygone, a rooftop concept at The Four Seasons hotel. His resume includes a year spent working for legendary chef Thomas Keller at both The French Laundry and Bouchon as well as stints at San Francisco’s OTD and the Caribou Club in Aspen.

    In addition to serving Brennan’s classic Creole fare, Chavez is introducing himself to diners with a five-course chef’s tasting menu that currently includes Louisiana crab salad, cornbread and truffle chicken, and bbq lamb with smoked tomato relish (specific dishes vary by availability). The meal costs $80 per person and is available for both dine-in and to-go.

    “One of my greatest joys while here at Brennan’s has been to introduce Houston to exciting new talent,” proprietor Alex Brennan-Martin said in a statement. “We’ve been energized by so many who have spent their early careers with us in our restaurant and, in large part, are the restaurant we are today because of these great people. With that being said, I am very excited to introduce Houston to our newest executive chef, Joey Chavez.”

    Other news and notes

    A hearty congratulations to Tracy Vaught. The Texas Restaurant Association has inducted Vaught — who owns H-Town Restaurant Group with her husband, James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega — into its Hall of Honor. Described as the highest award the association can bestow on members, criteria include “superior business ethics,” significant contributions to the TRA, and a “lengthy and comprehensive evaluation” by other people in the restaurant industry.

    Two of Houston’s Black-owned restaurants have each received $25,000 from Discover. That’s My Dog and GoCajun Subs are two beneficiaries of the Eat It Forward program that will supply a total of $5 million to 200 Black-owned restaurants nationwide. Recipients are randomly selected from nominations submitted via Discover’s Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter accounts. The company will hold weekly drawings through November to pick the remaining winners.

    Goode Company will give The Woodlands a taste of its smash hit Goode Bird pop-up this week. Get fried chicken, biscuits, and sides such as jalapeño creamed corn at The Woodlands location of Goode Co. BBQ (8865 Six Pines Drive), which has been temporarily closed since the start of the pandemic. Pre-orders are already available for pickup between 12 - 8 pm Saturday and Sunday; interested diners should act quickly — it will definitely sell out.

    The Original Ninfa's is selling its house margarita for $1 every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Customers may choose either on-the-rocks or frozen with a limit of two Ninfaritas per person. The special is available “for the foreseeable future” at both the Navigation and Uptown locations.

    Nancy’s Hustle will host a pop-up on Saturday, August 22 in support of Mavia Bakery, which has been feeding the citizens of Beirut since the tragic explosion that damaged much of the city. The menu includes manoosh (flatbread topped with za’atar, cheese, or both), a lunch plate with four items, and desserts. The pop-up starts at 10 am and lasts until sold out, which will probably happen quickly.

    Joey Chavez is Brennan's new executive chef.

    Joey Chavez Brennan's
    Photo by Kimberly Park
    Joey Chavez is Brennan's new executive chef.
    news-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

    What's eric eating episodes 513 and 514

    Beard Award-winning chef and family dish on their new Houston restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 21, 2025 | 1:43 pm
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, his wife and business partner Tracy Vaught, and their daughter Sophia Ortega join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss H-Town Restaurant Group. The company operates a number of local concepts, including interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, Backstreet Cafe, Mexican street food eatery Urbe, and Zaranda, the company’s newly opened restaurant in downtown that’s inspired by California.



    After a brief discussion of the early days of Hugo’s, the trio dives into the process of opening Zaranda. Vaught explains how she became aware of the space in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower and why it’s proximity to Discovery Green made it particularly appealing. Chef Ortega shares how a three-week road trip throughout Mexico provided some of the inspiration for both Zaranda and Caracol, his Galleria-area seafood restaurant.

    From there, chef Ortega describes how the zaranda — a wire metal basket used to cook seafood over an open flame — anchors much of the menu. He also recommends some dishes diners should try when they visit Zaranda.

    Sandler asks Sophia Ortega what it’s like working with her parents. “I get that comment a lot. It is very different. A lot of people can’t imagine working with family,” she says.

    “For me, I’m an only child. We’re a very close family unit. The restaurants have been a huge part of my growing up. For us, it comes very naturally to work together. It’s all we know. I’ve only ever worked for my restaurants. A lot of the employees have seen me grow up. I think we all have our own lane, but at the same time we overlap. We’re always open to hearing different opinions. That’s when the best decisions are made. I love it.”

    “Sophia is very intuitive. The way she communicates is very thoughtful and sensitive. I think that’s so valuable for our staff. Everybody loves her,” Vaught adds.



    Listen to the full episode for an update on Backstreet Cafe. Its original building was torn down last year to make way for an all-new structure that’s on track to open next year — hopefully in time for its legendary Mother’s Day brunch. Sandler also asks about the restaurant group’s conspicuous omission from the Michelin Guide.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson, the proprietor of newly-open wine shop Montrose Grocer, discuss the news out of the week. They begin with a discussion about the Houston Chronicle’s list of the city’s top 100 restaurants, including a discussion of Aga’s as the No.1 selection, some of the new entries on the list, and restaurants that dropped off the list entirely, such as Himalaya, Kata Robata, and Killen’s Barbecue. They also talk about Bari Ristorante opening a new location in The Woodlands and restaurateur Brian Doke’s plans to open Lazy Lane restaurant in Garden Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Maison Chinoise. Located next to Brasserie 19 in the River Oaks Shopping center, the new Chinese restaurant is the latest project from Dallas-based Lombardi Family Concepts, known locally for Toulouse Cafe and Bar, its French restaurant in River Oaks District, and Lombardi Cucina Italiana in Uptown Park.

    Listen to the episode to hear which dishes they liked best, as well as the one that missed the mark. They also discuss its decor and how it will fit with the other luxurious restaurants in the shopping center.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

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