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    6 things to know

    6 things to know in Houston food right now: Star chefs host a Beard Award tasting event, plus latest news

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 27, 2022 | 2:43 pm

    Editor’s note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

    Now open up north

    Those heading to Lake Conroe for recreation have a new all-day cafe to consider. Hunger Crush Café serves an eclectic menu of classic American fare at breakfast and lunch daily with dinner on the weekends (15250 Hwy 105 W., in Montgomery).

    Open daily beginning at 8 am, owners Mike and Mary Kelton have created a restaurant that caters to a diverse set of tastes. Breakfast options include avocado toast, omelets, and three different pancake flavors — all of which can be paired with juices, mimosas, or a full range of espresso drinks. At lunch and dinner, choose from a range of sandwiches, salads, burgers, and entrees such as meatloaf, penne bolognese, and chicken fried steak.

    Hunger Crush has a charitable component, too. An unspecific portion of proceeds from the sales of its “hunger boards” — family-style servings designed to feed a crowd — will be contributed to the Montgomery County Food Bank.

    New menus

    Chef Danny Leal has rolled out his offerings for Local Group Brewing, the brewery in Hardy Yards that reopened recently under new ownership. Available Thursday-Sunday, the menu includes dishes such as pork belly gorditas, smoked jalapeño and cheese sausage kolaches, and “hot and tangy” chicken sandwich served with Leal’s signature yucca fries. On the weekends, the chef adds barbacoa and carnitas tacos to his offerings.

    Most importantly, fans of the chef’s fare at shuttered cocktail bar Night Shift will be pleased to know that churros are available for dessert. Hours of operation are 4-10 pm Thursday and Friday, 11 am-10 pm Saturday and 11 am-8 pm Sunday.

    Chef Kevin Bryant has put his stamp on the menu at Rice Village Italian restaurant Roma. A veteran of restaurants such as Tony’s and Eleven XI, Bryant’s new offerings include chilled octopus salad with roasted lemon vinaigrette, truffle-crusted cod over summer vegetables, and Tonno Alla Grillia, a grilled rare tuna over chilled cannellini bean salad with heirloom tomatoes, garlic, roasted lemon, and sundried tomato pesto. Vegetarians will find options such as risotto with spring vegetables and gnocchi with arugula and tomatoes.

    Over time, Bryant hopes to add more tableside preparations. Currently, the restaurant features a whole fish that’s deboned at the table and Cacio e Pepe that includes spaghetti tossed tableside in a pecorino bowl.

    “We’re putting love in the food,” Bryant said in a statement. “Love is understanding the ingredients and knowing why you put certain ingredients in a pan, in a certain order. Italian food is that deep down grandmother inside of you, showing you the art of it, grabbing the best tomato and basil, and creating an exceptional product out of it. We’re striving to create the best experience and version of what’s offered.”

    Food happenings

    Norwegian chef Christopher Haatuft will host a series of dinners this week at Golfstrommen, the restaurant he opened in the Post Market food hall. Known as the father of Neo-Fjordic cuisine, Haatuft will collaborate with chef Paul Qui and Golfstrommen chef de cuisine Biggie Cruz to serve dishes inspired by Lysverket, his restaurant in Bergen, Norway. Expect menus that highlight the chef’s interest in sustainable ingredients. Options include dinners this week that utilize North Atlantic seafood like squid, lobster, salt cod (bacalao), and mackerel as well as a brunch on Sunday, July 3. Make reservations via the Resy app.

    The James Beard Foundation has released the menu for its Taste America event that’s taking place this Wednesday, June 29 at Silver Street Studios. They include: Dawn Burrell (Late August), Cured Salmon with Tamarind Tiger Fry, Cucumber, and Crunchy Salmon Skin; Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu (Kin HTX), Ceviche with Lemongrass Leche de Tigre, Chili Oil, and Sesame Crisp; Christine Ha and Tony J. Nguyen (Xin Chào), Vietnamese Wagyu Meatball; Rebecca Masson (Fluff Bake Bar), Star Crossed Lover Bars; Kaitlin Steets (Theodore Rex), Tomato Toast, and Michelle Wallace (Gatlin’s BBQ), Hickory-Smoked Catfish with Deconstructed Dirty Rice

    Tickets, available here, include samples from the participating chefs, drinks from event sponsors, and music by DJ Seek, aka Blood Bros. BBQ co-founder Robin Wong.

    Brasil will host a fundraiser for Planned Parenthood this Friday, July 1. Executive chef AJ Ede has recruited a talented group of friends for the event. Brasil will donate proceeds from Ede’s signature “Cheeseburger in Paradise” (a bacon cheeseburger with jalapeño sauce), while Brasil general manager Beryl Fergus has created a boozy strawberry lemonade for the event. Other participants include bartender Dani Taylan, chef Nick Wong, and CultureMap Tastemaker Awards winners Christina Au (Blacksmith) and Josh Deleon (Underground Creamery), each of whom will have sweet treats for sale. The event starts at 11 am and goes until sold out.

    Sample classic fare at Hunger Crush Cafe.

    Hunger Crush Cafe table spread
    Courtesy of Hunger Crush Cafe
    Sample classic fare at Hunger Crush Cafe.
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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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