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    travel the spice route

    Houston chef couple's new Portuguese-Indian canteen pours into The Heights

    Eric Sandler
    May 13, 2021 | 1:15 pm

    One of this year's most eagerly anticipated restaurants has opened in The Heights. Da Gama Canteen has begun a quiet soft opening ahead of an official opening on Saturday, May 15.

    Named for Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama, the restaurant takes inspiration rom the Portuguese-Indian territories of Goa, East Africa, and Portugal. The latest project from chefs Shiva and Rick Di Virgilio, the couple behind popular Midtown restaurant Oporto, Da Gama represents an evolution of The Queen Vic, their Anglo-Indian restaurant that closed in 2018.

    "The soul of the restaurant reflects the background and experiences of Shiva and myself. A love story that’s evolved into 15 years of cooking and serving Houston,” Rick Di Virgilio said in a statement. “At this stage in our story we wanted to create a unique community space, where we could continue to offer Houstonians a taste of our heritage, nutritious food, and a fun place to enjoy organic wine and creative cocktails.”

    The menu offers a wide array of tapas-style small plates divided into four sections: do Quinta (vegetables), do Mar (seafood), do Carne (meat), and Pao (breads). Most are priced between $12 and $18 with only two — Goan fish curry with halibut and shrimp ($22) and Mishkaki (grilled picanha beef skewers, $24) — priced over $20.

    Highlights from the soft opening menu include three chili paneer, crab pani puri, lamb rib mattar (grilled lamb ribs served with canteen curry and green peas), and prawn ambot tik (Gulf shrimp in tamarind curry). Bullet naan is available with an optional bacon topping, which seems poised to become a customer favorite.

    Beverage options include a tidy selection of cocktails, both spirited and non-alcoholic, as well as a more expansive selection of wines by-the-glass or bottle and beer.

    Da Gama occupies a prime location at The M-K-T, the mixed-use development on N. Shepherd Drive just north of I-10. Centrally located in the project's Building 5, the restaurant's patio looks onto the Heights Hike and Bike Trail.

    Eventually, the restaurant will operate a trail-facing window that will serve drinks such as chai, organic coffee and tea, and natural wine along with snacks such as Tandoori rolls, samosa chaat, and curry bowls. The window, along with brunch and lunch service, will debut in the coming weeks. For now, the restaurant is open for dinner Monday - Saturday from 5 to 10 pm.

    M-K-T will continue to see a rush of new openings throughout the coming months. The development recently welcomed Rakkan Ramen, a LA-based restaurant known for its vegan broth, with Homestead, a breakfast and lunch concept, slated to follow. Other eateries slated for the property include Blue Sushi Sake Grill, a lively sushi concept from the Omaha-based Flagship Restaurant Group, salad juggernaut Sweetgreen, and California-based sandwich concept Mendocino Farms.

    Peanut chicken tikka.

    Da Gama peanut chicken tikka
    Courtesy of Da Gama
    Peanut chicken tikka.
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    pizza news

    Veteran Houston chefs fire up new pizzas at Rice Village cocktail bar

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 19, 2025 | 2:30 pm
    Lee's Rice Village pizza spread
    Photo by Carla Gomez
    Lee's is now serving 10-inch pizzas.

    One of Houston’s foremost pizza experts is once again slinging pies. Lee’s, the companion cocktail bar to Rice Village restaurant Milton’s, is now serving pizzas created by chef Seth Siegel-Gardner.

    The chef, who serves as creative and culinary director for Local Foods Group, earned acclaim for his precisely executed pies as chef and co-owner of The Pass & Provisions. After it closed in 2019, Siegel-Gardner launched Marfa Para Llevar, a to-go only pizza window that thrived during the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic.

    Working with Milton’s executive chef Kent Domas, Siegel-Gardner created six pies for Lee’s. They are:

    • Margherita ($13)
    • Pepperoni ($16)
    • Mushroom: Bechamel, maitake, toasted yeast, sage, parsley, chives, and pickled mushrooms ($18)
    • Pesto Saltimbocca: Chicken and prosciutto, sage, pickled peppers ($17)
    • Leeks Vinaigrette: Brown butter roasted hazelnuts, celeriac, aged balsamic, fontina, celery leaves ($24)
    • Truffle: Black trumpet and king trumpet mushrooms, freshly shaved white and black truffles ($34)

    In press materials, the chef describes the pizzas as a hybrid between New York and Neapolitan styles, due to a light crust that uses prosecco in its dough recipe. At 10 inches, they’re sized to be a light meal for one person or shared with other dishes by two or more people.

    The rest of the Lee’s food menu follows the lead of the Italian-American fare served at Milton’s. It includes mozzarella sticks, fried calamari, steak tartare, fried ravioli, a chicken parm sandwich, and more. All of the dishes pair well with the bar’s cocktails such as a negroni, Garibaldi (campari and orange juice), Gibson (martini made with gin, vermouth, and pickle brine), a blood orange margarita, and more.

    “We’re seeing couples come in and share snacks and a bottle of wine, groups of friends come and order across the list of cocktails and have a few rounds of food and ultimately, just a whole lot of good times being shared at Lee’s. Chef Kent and I thought it’d be fun to add pizza to the mix,” Siegel-Gardner said in a statement. “The vision is that pizza will add to the already playful atmosphere with food and friends.”

    Local Foods Group opened Lee’s last year. Since then, it earned a nomination for Bar of the Year in the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards and landed a spot on Bon Appètit’s list of the 9 Best New Bars of 2025.

    Lee's Rice Village pizza spread

    Photo by Carla Gomez

    Lee's is now serving 10-inch pizzas.

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